UKC

Relatively i don't have a big problem with falling. However, it does seem to be limiting my grade. The most I seem to be able to on-sight is f6C+ and can't manage a 7a. I am certain it has a lot to do with loosing confidence above the last clip since I can top-rope a 7a.

Has anyone got any tips on conquering this fear and continuing to climb hard regardless of whether you're climbing sport or trad above that last piece of gear?

In reply to northcave: Fall off...

make it second nature.

In reply to northcave:


There are a couple of other factors that could be making a difference. Firstly the on-sight bit - can you top-rope onsight (I know, I know) 7a? Being able to climb 7a with beta would be quite normal for someone who can lead 6c+ onsight.

Secondly when you top-rope are you undoing the clips as you go? If you're just top-roping with no clips in that can make a significant difference in difficulty. Clipping (particularly if you're putting the draws in as well and have to pull up slack) involves hanging on one arm which you otherwise only have to do momentarily when climbing on a top-rope. You get a significant extra pump doing so on difficult ground.


Yep, get Dave Macleod's book

In reply to northcave:

Go to Yosemite and run-out half a rope length on El Cap and then chuck yourself off?

Don't forget to whoooooop at your belayer on the way past!

In reply to northcave:

falling practice, done properly. I'd second the recommendation for Dave Mac's new book, the gist of what he is saying is in this blog post but he goes into much more detail in the book.
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2009/07/beating-fear-of-falling-in-...

Performance Rock Climbing and The Rock Warrior's Way also specifically address fear of falling in detail, though PRC is getting quite dated now and RWW is written in quite, shall we say, ideosyncratic language which is off putting to some.

IMHO Dave Mac is very detailed and up to date and reading his stuff has directly helped my climbing re. fear of falling. There is lots on his blog too.

There may be stuff of interest to you on this thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=383458

and this thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=383042

lots more info on the forum if you search for it.

In reply to northcave:

This worked really well with a friend of mine

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1838

For myself I just climbed with a regular climbing partner who i built up a very high level of trust with. Also not clipping the last clip (indoors) and jumping off with a controlled belay is good, as you get the 'scary' falling sensation but know you're safe.

In reply to northcave: have done a handfull of 7as, the limiting thing for myself is thinking too long about clipping when on a bad hold. I dont mind falling but do when it comes to clipping! I'm trying to overcome this by clipping as close to my harness as poss (i.e. not reaching far up) and keeping things flowing. I find on harder climbs i'm often more involved with the actual climbing and i figure really its just as well to always lead. Good luck you will get there i'm sure!