UKC

Grades at the Beacon in North Wales

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 chester1993 31 Jan 2010
Hi all, just wondered if anyone knew....are the grades in the beacn climbing centre in Wales equal to font/sport grades?

thanks
 Rob15 31 Jan 2010
In reply to chester1993: If its an indoor wall and routes i would say sport :S
OP chester1993 31 Jan 2010
In reply to chester1993:
Yeaa it's an indoor centre/routes and graded for example 5a,5b,6a,6b etc does this mean the 6a inside is equal to a F6a/6a outside? I've ehard people refer to the beacon grades as french grades? are french the same as sport? Soory i have little knowledge here as i've concentrated on trad climbing :S
 Luke90 31 Jan 2010
In reply to chester1993:
Yeah, generally speaking sport=french.
 stewieatb 31 Jan 2010
In reply to chester1993: Due to the way that french grades work (grading on 'overall effort' with no factor of danger), they make a good system for sport climbing, both inside and on bolted crags outside. They are also commonly referred to as sport grades because that's their most common sue in the UK. Whether indoor grades can match outdoor sport grades is a tricky issue, as the moves involved in outdoor climbing are largely different from the actions you go through when pulling on plastic indoors. Also different walls grade differently - a 6a at one wall could be a 5+ at another.
Ian Black 31 Jan 2010
In reply to chester1993:
> Hi all, just wondered if anyone knew....are the grades in the beacn climbing centre in Wales equal to font/sport grades?





I don't know, but what I do know is I found the grades in there real soft touch in comparison with Ingleton or Preston, and I'm no indoor guru.

OP chester1993 31 Jan 2010
In reply to chester1993:
Thanks to everyone for all the usefull repliess ! all that needs to be done now is get out on some sport crags
 Pekkie 01 Feb 2010
In reply to stewieatb:
> grading on 'overall effort' with no factor of danger, they make a good system for sport climbing, both inside and on bolted crags outside.

I think you should have the word 'ideally' before 'no factor of danger' as there are sport routes outside where you can deck it if you fumble a lower clip. It's not unknown for leaders to deck it indoors too.


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