UKC

Dave Birkett, Andy Mitchell and Mary Jenner climbed a once-in-a-lifetime winter route last weekend on Scafell's East Buttress. Birkett has an almost religious relationship with this hallowed crag and this new winter route, he told us, was one of his most intense mental and physical climbing experiences ever.

Read Dave's account and see photos by Ed Luke and Al Phizacklea in this UKClimbing.com exclusive.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51628

In reply to UKC News:

Some great photos, too. Particularly the one approaching the belay on Yellow Slab.

In reply to UKC News:

WOW, doesn't look very icy from the distance pics, then you see the ones on the route and see just how fat it is.

Well done team, another plum snatched.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
do you not like women? do you like climbing? If you said yes twice than...what's the problem?

A good route it seems.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I agree, it did grate somewhat.

Amazing looking route.

In reply to UKC News:

Chapeau

In reply to 3leggeddog: eh ? (marrra)

In reply to UKC News: I saw the pictures in the photo gallery this morning and thought - that's going to be some impressive news! A fine effort.

(And to either the editors or JCM (whoever removed the comment) - it's really annoying to be able to see people commenting on a rude comment but not to be able to judge what degree of crime was committed in the first place!)

In reply to UKC News:

Good effort Dave

Woody and Steve

What a cool looking route, great effort. Love the picture with Andy poised to recoil backwards.

In reply to Paul R:

I remember walking under a very impressive free-standing ice pillar coming out of the Gold Rush spring many years ago. However with a Snowdon Mouldings Curver axe and a Camp Baltoro ice hammer it wasn't going to happen that day!!

A good effort.

ALC

In reply to UKC News: Good effort lads and ladett....some amazing ground covered !!

In reply to UKC News:

Absolutely stunning!

In reply to UKC News:

Blimey - i'm a little bit scared just looking at the photos, nerver mind the abb in

In reply to UKC News:
somone defently ate their wheetabix that morning...

In reply to UKC News: Is this the first winter route that climbs the East Butress from the ground? I know a fair few routes have been done there over the years but have (all?) required an ab.

I don't have the latest Lakes winter guide!

Cheers

Mark

In reply to The Mole: SOS is also all the way from the ground to the top too. What a fantastic looking route, good effort. I might head up tomorrow but I suspect its long gone now.

In reply to UKC News: that looks absolutely awesome hats off to you 3 and keep it up.
maybe this will encourage people to consider lakeland winter climbing instead of defaulting to scotland !

really good photo's aswell fella well done.

In reply to TobyA:

It wasn't me removing it, I assure you. I was merely deploring the crag-as-woman metaphor, as presumably were all right-minded readers.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yes, apart from anything else, a very strange metaphor for a thing so utterly un-feminine as the east buttress of Scafell!

In reply to UKC News:

Stunning. Line, technicality, boldness, opportunism, local knowledge. All the ingredients for an unforgettable prize. Max respect.

In reply to UKC News: wow wow wow. Aweome!

And a great read too - well written

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
your making the assumption that women are not fierce and challenging !

In reply to jas wood:

Says the guy I met on Stob Coire nan Lochan two Saturdays ago...

In reply to petestack: just read the reply was about an earlier post - duh !

i love scottish winter climbing but i also love lakeland winter climbing (harry hill voice) FIGHT !

In reply to jas wood:

Nah, no fight... there's room for both and (to keep this thread on topic) this new ascent by Birkett and co. looks worthy of the best of either!

In reply to petestack: agreed

In reply to UKC News: Went up and had a look today, and was surprised to see it's pretty much all there still. I say pertty much as it was quite foggy so couldn't really see the top pitches too well although the top hanger was very obvious. Unfortunately with temperatures starting at about +3 and rising during the day it was a no go. Not sure what the forecast is (this was my only free day so I just had to give it a try) but if a freeze comes quickly then it could be set for the weekend. Form an orderly queue. SoS with the mayday finish would also be on if you can climb tech 10 above an ankle breaking fall?

In reply to Ian Parnell:

The next time this very significant route (lakes route of the decade?) is in condition, will standards have advanced so far that it has become a trade route?