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new shoes.. rubber important consideration?

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 kate8 09 Feb 2010
Hi, I'm looking to buy my second pair of shoes after my 5.10 coyotes. (which are good but a bit roomy and possibly hindering my progress)
Apart from looking for a good (tighter)fit, should I also be considering rubber fiction/quality? Should I be researching these things before I go and buy some other shoes?
At the mo, i'm doing up to VS trad and indoors grade 5.
How important are factors (for a relative beginner) other than how well a shoe fits and the stiffness of the sole?
Thanks
 bouldery bits 09 Feb 2010
In reply to kate8:

Hey!

I think alot of people will say this fit is far more important than the quality of rubber these days. There are some differences, but the differences in that quality will be lost with poorly fitting shoes.

I like 5.10's as they fit my feet - with the bonus of (In my opinion) the best rubber)

Good luck,

Oli
The_JT 09 Feb 2010
In reply to kate8:

Rubber friction/quality shouldn't matter until much harder grades start looking likely, and even then the fit's crucial.
 IainWhitehouse 09 Feb 2010
In reply to kate8: Fit is the most important consideration (by miles) whether beginner or not. Try on lots and lots and lots and lots of shoes on, in lots of different sizes, and you can't go too far wrong.

Iain
 dobby 200 09 Feb 2010
In reply to IainWhitehouse:

i remember someone saying something like this once...

"by the time the differences in rubber will have any effect on your climbing, you will be stuck with the rubber that your sponsers put on their shoes anyway."

but properly fitting shoes will work amazingly better than loose ones. also you will notice the difference between new rubber on new shoes, and old, and warn rubber on old shoes.
OP kate8 10 Feb 2010
In reply to dobby 200: Thanks everyone, some good advice. I will get a better fitting shoe this time..and not be overly concerned about the rubber.

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