UKC

As reported on the Beal Team Website:
At Santa Linya in Spain Adam Ondra has onsighted the F8c+ La Fabela and instead of stopping to clip the chains he carried on, adding the finish of the Enmienda link-ups (this specific link is given an overall grade of F9a).
Ondra had already climbed the...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51896

In reply to UKC News: now, i think this has been debated on here before but i cant really remember: if Adam is onsighting 8c/+ regularly and doing 9a very quickly why is he not putting up 9c etc? is that he just doesnt new route or is he focusing on ticking everything hard in the world before ploughing his own furrow?

In reply to ksjs: time constraints/inspiration/suitable lines.......there are loads of reasons....he has lots of time, dont be so impatient.

In reply to ksjs:

Because he's not sure if he has even climbed 9b (see older News article on his route in Sardinia... or was it Corsica).

And after all, he's a 16 year old kid... Think about it, when you were that young... well, most kids that age have about zero patience.

Which is what is needed in abudance for creating new über hard routes...

It's much easier to arrive somewhere, read the topo on where something hard is (or talk to the locals) and then give those a few goes. Then go home...

In reply to north country boy: if he's so far ahead of the crowd then i cant understand why he isnt (or at least currently doesnt seem to be) motivated to crush the opposition? i cant see how time is a factor: if he can do 9a in a day or two then, by extension, 9b nd so on must be possible in a relatively short time too. i appreciate it isnt a linear progression but his skill level seems to be so high that its unlikely that difficulty would be the limiting factor.

In reply to UKC News:
this is amazing. give the lad some credit and no negativity! no one else can do this!!!

In reply to HeMa: maybe youre right but i think id want / need to be testing myself. as you say though he has a long time to play with...

In reply to IOAN D: Hi Ioan, im not being negative at all - Adams achievements are incredible. thats why im intrigued about his options / choices / motivations hence the post...

In reply to ksjs:

I think he'll probably want to get some mileage in on grit first, to avoid the inevitable questioning on UKC...

In reply to ksjs:


He's 16 years old and touted as one of the best sport climbers to have ever pulled on a pair of climbing boots.

If only he had your drive and motivation!!

What's even more impressive is his talley of routes two days before; on the 29th Jan he onsighted Aral dite (8a), Biotop (8b), Elzevir (8b+), Super Samson (8c) and Guerre D'usure (8c) all at Claret. This kid is truly amazing the Usain Bolt of the climbing world!

In reply to Nic: Why this sily whats he ever done on he grit, I'm far mo inerested in what hes done at Gogarth......

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

Anything he wanted, I expect.

In reply to UKC News: Adam has updated the info of this ascent on the 9b website:

"Hey people,
somebody has spread pretty wrong informations. The first pitch of the climb, La Fabela 8c+, wasn't onsight at all, since I had known all the moves from other routes like Open Your Mind (it has the same 8a-ish start), Fabelita and Cachasa, what is the new project I tried two days and has the same finish with Fabela. This finish is also crux for Fabela. Thus I had climbed every single move in this pitch before! After the anchor of Fabela I climbed about ten meters that I had never climbed before (8a maximum) and the end is the same as Enmienda that I have climbed two years ago.
Nevertheless, this route can be onsighted in the future in my opinion, but the crux of the first pitch is quite tough for onsight and not very obvious.
Adam "

I have now edited the news item.

It seems there was some confusion on the Beal Team site.

Thanks,

Jack

In reply to Removed User:

does this mean im not allowed to ask about his motivations etc?

i havent detracted in any way from what he has done / does. i just find it strange that someone who is doing 9as as if theyre 8as (and i assume has personal traits that help him be where he is) hasnt thought "hold on a minute, this all seems a bit easy [im knocking things off in a day or two that take people years, a lifetime or at best a season], better go and try something proper."

this line of thinking is entirely logical for a sport climber wishing to establish where theyre at, what they can do. of course it could just reflect my narrow, short-sighted, ignorant and out of touch view on things.

In reply to UKC News: Is it just me or does his profile pic that they use in the News stories make him look like a slightly camp, cocaine snorting, bond villian!

In reply to ksjs:
Some people aren't that psyched for long redpoint sieges. I know quite a few people (who climb in the low-mid 8s) who only really do stuff that doesn't take longer than a couple of days. We're not all like the Yorkshire boys who average 2 routes a year...

In reply to abarro81: Yorkshire Boys? This insinuates an element of 'youth'