/ NEWS: VIDEO: Iker Pou Climbing Demencia Senil (9a+) at Margalef

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UKC News - on 21 Feb 2010
[Iker Pou on the second ascent of Demencia Senil (9a+) at Margalef, 2 kb]In January Iker Pou made the second ascent of Chris Sharma's pocket pulling nightmare route Demencia Senil, 9a+, at Margalef. This video show the ascent in all its pocket-pulling, tendon-tearing glory!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52018
TonyM - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Quality. Makes Action Directe look like a path!
In reply to UKC News:

Bloody Hell! Twanged a tendon just watching it.

Chris
Lord_ash2000 - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to TonyM:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Quality. Makes Action Directe look like a path!

Thatís exactly what I was thinking!



(Not that Iím remotely qualified to comment on such things)
andyinglis - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Brilliant video! Really inspiring!
murdster on 21 Feb 2010 - cpc3-gate9-2-0-cust533.gate.cable.virginmedia.com
In reply to UKC News:

I notice he's missed a bit when he was having a shave.
nniff - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

The top bit looked nice.........
owensum - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

In a way, much better than the footage of sharma doing the 1st ascent - despite the fancy camerawork in progression... iker just shows how god damn desperate the route is
dobby 200 - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to owensum:

thats rediculous! what kind if a start of a route is that!
James Oswald - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Where is the footage of Sharma on the first ascent?
Brilliant video. Looks desperate!
Did Sharma use the heel-toe hands off rest?
James
Henry L Buckle - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

WOW. That's obscene
James Oswald - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Also why did he choose to campus a large amount of the start of the route?
Is this the easiest way?
Not trying to call him shit as I've been told off for a while ago.
Just curious.
James
Robertostallioni - on 21 Feb 2010
In reply to James Oswald: you can bet he's not trying to make it more difficult.
owensum - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to James Oswald:

Vid of sharma is part of the progression film. Nah sharma didnt use the bat hang. Also, at one point he clips without any feet!! (on a poor looking edge) Mindblowing
PeterJuggler - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to TonyM:
I thought a lot of the 1 and 2 finger pockets looked deeper than action directe but obviously this is steeper, longer and with more distance between the holds.
witnessthis - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to owensum:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> In a way, much better than the footage of sharma doing the 1st ascent - despite the fancy camerawork in progression... iker just shows how god damn desperate the route is
I agree gives one a real feel for how extreme the rt is(on your tendons as much as anything)+ i like the bat hang rest..did Sharma get this on the 1st ascent?

jon on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Also why did he choose to campus a large amount of the start of the route?
> Is this the easiest way?
> Not trying to call him shit as I've been told off for a while ago.
> Just curious.
> James

I remember the start to the old Buoux classic Choucas was reckoned to be easier when done footless. You'd need less body tension - it's quite clear you need a fair amount higher up...
ypy on 22 Feb 2010 - 85.118.4.227 whois?
> In reply to James Oswald:
> Also why did he choose to campus a large amount of the start of the route?
> Is this the easiest way?
> Not trying to call him shit as I've been told off for a while ago.
> Just curious.
> James

Don't be stupid James I am pretty sure he spent long enough working out the best way of doing it. Not the kind of thing you walk up to and onsight (unless you are Ondra)

Adam Lincoln - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Also why did he choose to campus a large amount of the start of the route?
> Is this the easiest way?

<sigh>Yeah, probably wasn't hard enough for him with feet on so he decided to campus it. Don't you do stuff footless just to make an ascent more satisfying?</sigh>
adam John on 22 Feb 2010 - pg4px.pg.com
In reply to UKC News:
probably there is not a big difference..but Sharma didn't use the rock's and the crash pads to start the route
@ndyM@rsh@ll - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to ypy: You didn't read the bit where it said Ondra hurt his tendons trying it then?
Mr Lopez - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to ypy:
> [...]
>
> Don't be stupid James I am pretty sure he spent long enough working out the best way of doing it. Not the kind of thing you walk up to and onsight (unless you are Ondra)

Ondra got injured big time while trying this route and had to call it a day...
Mr Lopez - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: Oooops, missed your reply.
Nic on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to jon:

> I remember the start to the old Buoux classic Choucas was reckoned to be easier when done footless.

Oh crikey! I sense a "what's the foot-on grade?" debate coming on..can you do Three Pebble Slab footless?
Alex Thompson - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Great little video, looks painful...
This is the same crag where Dave MacLeod soloed Darwin Dixit:
http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/03/darwin-dixit-video.html
Silum - on 22 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

That was horrific!!!!!!! How the hell?! Every tendon in my damn body twitched with agony at the mere thought of climbing that.
Al Evans on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Either he did it more than once or there were an awful lot of cameras around.
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to UKC News) Either he did it more than once or there were an awful lot of cameras around.

.... and someone with a very quick winch to get the cameraman who took the close-up of the monos, out of the way before he did the crux dyno for the distance shot.

It is a sport route, I think we can assume that he had several attempts at it but some of the distance shots appear to be taken on THE successful redpoint.

Alan
Paul Crusher R - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Inspirado!
CharlieMack - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Awesome ascent! Does anyone know what the music is? Beastly psych tunage!
RupertD - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Mr Lopez:
> (In reply to ypy)
> [...]
>
> Ondra got injured big time while trying this route and had to call it a day...

I thought he just tweaked one of his fingers a bit. It doesn't seem to have stopped him climbing 9as every other week.
GeoffRadcliffe - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Alan James - UKC: According to the blog he went back to make the video after he made the ascent.

Quote from the interview posted by BjŲrn Pohl:
"A while back, Iker Pou made the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma's Demencia senil, 9a+, at Margalef. I decided it was time to ask the man a few questions. Big thanks to Iker of course, but also to Cedric Larcher, from Kairn, who has translated the interview to and from Spanish.
I know he's gone back to make a video, so hopefully we'll see it soon."
Mr Lopez - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to RupertD: What i read in an interview he did, is that he injured his finger 'a little bit', so he had to give up on 'Demencia' and 'Golpe de estado', which he was also trying, and has had to take a rest period for a while. That's only happened last week, after the last ascents reported here.
Here it is http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/02/adam-sets-record-straight.html
jazzyjackson on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

how can he climb with that pish music playing!
RupertD - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Fair enough. I think I heard something 15th hand on the grapevine.
mattyork2 - on 23 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Showed this to my y11 today in registration and it raised their interest levels from atrophy to mild apathy...Pscyhed!

Love the close ups on the quality of the holds and then the zoomed out campus shots on the same ones. Gurn
Fraser on 24 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic! That was the best shot and edited bit of climbing footage I've seen in a very long time. Thanks! :D

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