UKC

do you have any tips for first attempt

In reply to charlie 1:

Don't fall.

In reply to charlie 1: Dont waste yor time and energy carrying lots of draws! Start early. Be comfortable with long run outs.......

In reply to charlie 1:

At the risk of stating the obvious, wait for good conditions. Be thinking about how you are going to end each pitch from about halfway through it; you wont get a lot of belay options.

In reply to Alex Buisse:

that one tip i will keep in mind.
lol!

In reply to andyinglis: thanks

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:will keep that in mind thanks

In reply to charlie 1:
Take a fairly light rack, you'll need some rock gear but more for belays than runners. If you get 6 runners in 60m you're doing well.

Don't pass a good belay, they can be very spaced.

Take tat and a threader.

The crux pitch where you leave the 1st basin is started from an obvious rock rib on the right at the top beneath a "very" obvious smooth icy V groove.

Be ready to climb a long way above gear and for a long day out.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Good tip!

On steep crap ice above and below me for 20m, my belayer shouted up "5m of rope left" I won't repeat my initial words back to him, but we saw the funny side later, in the pub after a few beers!

Rich.

In reply to Richard White:

Beware the pendulum potential especially if the second is less confident than the leader with long run outs.