/ NEWS: Scottish Storm: The Tempest X,9
Andy Turner and Dave MacLeod Repeat Neil Gresham's test-piece The Tempest:
Back in 2001 Neil Gresham caused an ethical hurricane by creating The Tempest, a savagely technical route in Glen Coe.
The route has now been repeated by Andy Turner and Dave MacLeod.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52318
Not just 'the fitness to onsight and then reverse virtually the entire pitch of The Tempest', but the skill and composure...
You seriously mean that he downclimbed it? Have I misunderstood something?
> You seriously mean that he downclimbed it? Have I misunderstood something?
The news report is quite clear:
"MacLeod climbed the route to within 6m of the top, but found he had run out of gear. Desperate to keep the onsight, he reversed the whole pitch, removing the gear, without falling and returned to the ground."
> The news report is quite clear:
> "MacLeod climbed the route to within 6m of the top, but found he had run out of gear. Desperate to keep the onsight, he reversed the whole pitch, removing the gear, without falling and returned to the ground."
Sh!t, his poor, poor elbows!
I had to doublecheck that I got right, english isnt my first language after all, thats insane, really insane.
Nice one Dave!
Wow wow wow! To climb that thing is mental enough, but to downclimb it!
lots of respect dave and andy. walking the walk
Really impressed, not just by the repeats ... but also by managing to remove the gear in winter. I thought Andy would have had to have waited until summer.
Descended down the line between Neil and Garth working the line. All the in situ gear was deeply, deeply encased in thick clear ice. e.g. No way you'd have excavated that buried wired hex. (Didn't they originally get placed in summer?). So must have been very much drier in those cracks this year, as opposed to climbing up shallow dinks in the ice?
Excellent. What a season for pushing boundaries!
True. I read his blog which states he didn't fancy it, but to prefer the whole down climb instead of going fot it...!
In saying that, there's gear already placed as he downclimbs, so maybe felt more secure than topping out with no gear?
Different class though!
well done on another class bit of climbing......
I think Dave has just got so good at climbing up now that he wants to take down climbing to a new level.....
I always found climbing down harder so surely the grade should be technical 10 for the downclimb but probably overall grade only 8 because gravity is on his side :)
A very impressive ascent.
I thought it was a bit unfair to leave all that gear behind to rot away for the 2nd ascencionist to remove. I'm all for new style of mixed and so on, but it feels a bit out of place to leave the gear in-situ. Anyways, I don't know much about scottish mixed...
I think Neil Gresham used to be a DMM sales rep.
Maybe the runout was too long to be on the safer side.
I would imagine the gear placed on lead pretty poor, so perhaps the Chief did not want to test it!
Again this is really ground breaking, i don't think the general climbing public really appreciate how difficult this route would be to onsight, never mind downclimb from up on high.
In the mid 90's i absieled down this wall with Gresham, it looked futuristic, beyond the capabilities of the day, the seed sown, he returned a few years later to climb it in such a controversial style, i think the belief was that it would never be onsighted.
Also remember Garth worked this and still came away emptyhanded, hes no slouch.
So in short quite an outstanding effort, cutting edge on a world scale,
Dave i think it is time to buy that family size trifle! you have earned it.
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