UKC

NEWS: Dirty Dry-Tooler Named and Shamed

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 UKC News 19 Mar 2010
[Pete 'dirty dry-tooler' Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7, 2 kb]There has been much debate on the UKC forums of late concerning the climbing of winter routes when they are not white. Yes. It's true and you had better believe it...

An anonymous source has written to UKC expressing outrage... FULL PHOTO REPORT

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52512

OdinOneEye 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: Is that artificial ice?









 Mark020 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Dirty Cheats!
 Atticus Finch 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: Burn him with fire!
Ackbar 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: Shouldn't you be working on the trad 2009 article?
 remi_mcm 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: Does it really matter in what state a route is in order to be able to climb it, I mean like if the route is essentially a climbing route, which would be climbed on mostly in the summer and not particularly made as a winter route, but still climbed in winter?
If the bloke wants to climb it in winter, so be it, leave him alone, like whats the big deal with climbing it in winter as long as he knows what hes up to?
 jayrenegade 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: I don't know owt about ice climbing, is the problem that that is more like snow than ice?
 stewieatb 19 Mar 2010
In reply to remi_mcm: I can't tell if you've got so far into the metahumour that you're meta-trolling, or you've just completely missed the point of the article.
Tohrazer 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: can someone explain to me what he did wrong, in detail, im new and i honestly dont get it
 remi_mcm 19 Mar 2010
In reply to stewieatb: I wouldnt mind if you could possibly summarise the article in like a sentence or two, cause im a bit confused...
cheers
 The Pylon King 19 Mar 2010
In reply to remi_mcm:
> (In reply to stewieatb) I wouldnt mind if you could possibly summarise the article in like a sentence or two, cause im a bit confused...
> cheers

Just some 'in' joke with winter climbers that most 'normal' climbers are not a part of (Thank F*ck).
 remi_mcm 19 Mar 2010
In reply to Dark Mavis: Right, my bad, never mind......
 stewieatb 19 Mar 2010
In reply to remi_mcm: Basically people have been complaining a lot recently about 'winter' ascents of summer mountain routes that don't have enough ice, snow and hoar frost on them to protect the rock from crampon and tool scratches. However, this article is a hard winter ascent of a summer rock route so covered in ice that it can't possibly damage the precious summer rock underneath. The letter and response are a total pisstake of the people on the forum who argue that all winter ascents of summer rock climbs damage the rock.
 joese7en 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: Poo the bed, you could build a tunnel through that stuff and fit Johnny Vegas through it, amazing
 Franco Cookson 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I think UKClimbing might have actually produced something humorous for once. Well Done.

 Dave C 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: ...and here's me thinking it's just Americans who don't understand irony...
 Dave Todd 19 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Stuff the rock...what about the ICE?!...don't these people realise the damage that their hard tools do to it?...it's a finite resource...once it's gone it won't come back...
murdster 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Is this supposed to be funny?





I'm asking because it isn't. At all.
 Fredt 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

This thread was started in the UKC NEWS forum and should be moved, maybe to the SNIDE REMARKS forum. Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

I understood the point of the article immediately, but I still can't see how it justifies dry-tooling. As far as I am aware all the posts that complain are about damaging rock that isn't sufficiently covered in ice to justify using ice-tools. That's a perfectly valid concern. This article attempts to claim a moral high ground by being sarcastic and insulting to those with valid concerns.

However, when a protaganist stoops to schoolboy humour and cheap shots from the strength of editorial approval, I only see their argument weakened still further.

If this is News, then I'd like to submit a news article taking the piss out of newbies for asking stupid questions. Something like "Outrage at newbie spotted at Stanage, asking for advice and attempting to learn trad."
mountainsheep 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:
bloody hell it's a joke lighten up
 French Erick 20 Mar 2010
In reply to Fredt:
Chill oot boyo =)
It's Sat am before 8am...what you're doing to your heart and arteries is surely not good.
Are you the bloke with a throbbing vein on the forehead I saw preach on TV the othernight (can't remember if it was religious, economic or ethical debating now)?

Article made me smile, not laugh though...
 whistler 20 Mar 2010
In reply to Fredt:
Is this a five minute argument or a full half hour one?
In reply to French Erick:

Morning Erick,

boys woke up at 6.30am, that's my excuse for posting. Was planning to go out today, not worth it though, be surprised if anything 'inspiring' in at moment?

Stuart
 Andy Mountains 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Evil swine!! Its obvious that this route is not in winter condition!!!

Has SH not commented on this yet???

Nice one UKC News
 hexcentric 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:
I don't know why you're still bothering with this winter nonsense. Summer is here. I've seen rock climbing pictures from the Ben this week. Minus One Direct....looks a super route with none of that inconvenient snowy business.
 mlt 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I'm half American therefore I don't always handle the British tongue-in-cheek humour very well, but this was pretty hilarious!

Good stuff.
 Tyler 20 Mar 2010
In reply to Stuart the postie:

> Was planning to go out today, not worth it though, be surprised if anything 'inspiring' in at moment?

I know what you mean, everything seems to be covered in some white stuff so I'm putting my tools away for a few months until things improve
 Plungeman 20 Mar 2010
Oh you were looking for an argument? This is abuse. You want room 4A down the hall.







Tit
 Elaine Bunn 20 Mar 2010
In reply to UKCNews:

HAHAHAHAHAHA! Good Effort! Again...

Ahahahahahahahahahaha!!! Lol.. controversial

xx
GBriffett 22 Mar 2010
In reply to Fredt:
Crikey, did you have your sense of humour surgically removed at birth ?

 hexcentric 22 Mar 2010
In reply to GBriffett:
I don't get this.
It's not funny.
It's like something from some horrible, dorky uni MC newsletter.

 Michael Gordon 22 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News: quality
In reply to hexcentric:
> (In reply to GBriffett)
> ...It's like something from some horrible, dorky uni MC newsletter.

I agree.
Wrongfoot 22 Mar 2010
In reply to hexcentric:

It is a bit of a belaboured joke. Nice photo's and good route though so that's ok with me.

Just a quick point. It may be considered "funny" to be concerned about our effect on the rock during winter ascents in lean conditions (unlike those in the article) but it would be tragic if climbing culture was careless of such things. Climbing differs from so many sports in that it has an ethical perspective on style of ascent, tactics, effect on the rock and suchlike and is self-regulating - no referees here.

Imagine a climbing world where all these ceased to matter and no-one challenged such behaviour. That would truly be a sick joke wouldn't it?
 liz j 22 Mar 2010
In reply to Wrongfoot:
> (In reply to hexcentric)
>

> Imagine a climbing world where all these ceased to matter and no-one challenged such behaviour. That would truly be a sick joke wouldn't it?

It would be the end of UKC too, what would everyone have to argue over??
 petestack 22 Mar 2010
In reply to liz j:

The Matterhorn, best all-rounders and partners for Scottish first ascents?
 liz j 22 Mar 2010
In reply to petestack:
Are you stalking me??
 petestack 22 Mar 2010
In reply to liz j:

No. Just observant!
 liz j 22 Mar 2010
In reply to petestack:
Mmmm, not terribly, as you have picked a handful of topics from over 1500 posts.
How's the Scottish climbing history going? Unearthed anything new?
 petestack 22 Mar 2010
In reply to liz j:

Not tempted by an argument with you here, so out of this topic!

Bye
P
 liz j 22 Mar 2010
In reply to petestack:
No arguement wanted!! Peace
 ruaidh 23 Mar 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I don't get what all the fuss is about in this country. Go to the continent and its quite common to see crampon scratches all over summer lines. I don't understand what the issue is other than perhaps some subjective beef about the aesthetic. Sounds a bit like the anti-wind-turbine lobby complaining about the view.
 TradHolden 11 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News: Not even worth commenting on......



DAMN!

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