UKC

Adam Lincoln has repeated Gigantic (E8 6c) in the Lancashire quarry of Wilton 1.

Adam repeated the route after abseil inspection and cleaning, but without top-rope practice.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52556

In reply to UKC News:

Not just a boulderer and sport climber then ;0)

Amazing stuff. Sounds well scary.

Good effort to Pete as well for trying the ground up.

In reply to biscuit:

Replying to myself but surely that means he's done the 3 8's now ?

So extra congrats from me.

In reply to UKC News: Good effort I bet he`s really chuffed. I believe Gaz Parry has set the definitive style for this route, I hope Adam did it in similair fashion.

In reply to J1234:

Thanks, yes that is the 3 9's now.

I presume you mean Gaz's hair in the pic

In reply to biscuit:


Still has the 8000m peak and the Scottish VIII to do though!

Adam, shamefully for a music nerd, I got my 80s bands mixed-up: youtube.com/watch?v=LK0CJqMK6f0&

In reply to J1234:

I just uploaded a shot of Triffid Wall/Gigantic to my photo gallery.

When the mods have OK'd it, check it out - *that's* style (or it was in the 80's!)

Adam - good effort lad.

Phil

In reply to UKC News: Nice one Adam.
Not meaning to spit on your fire, but hasnt gigantic always been a 7? When did it become 8? Flippin rockfax. The description for chocolate girl is a bit off as well i think (well way off). 4 pegs? more like 2 unusables and the crack is a piece of piss, getting to it is the hard bit.
Not that any of this matters, its the quality that counts.

In reply to UKC News: Well done Adam, can't wait to get up that route bit more training needed yet though, i keep looking at it every time i go in w1, 1 day i hope pal, im wrestling with constables at the mo got my ass wooped on the last two moves, bit green at top. just waiting for weather again now, Super work dude stay safe, Regards.

In reply to Paul R:

E8 in the newish Lancs guide. Also E8 on the gritlist, http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/E8+Lancashire.

Who knows, grades eh! Top climb either way. Get to it Paul. Need a belay and beta give is a shout.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Really, well im obviously just not with the times anymore lol. Yeh id be interested to know which way you did the top moves.

In reply to UKC News:
Good effort. Esp getting back on after the rope slicing that might have been enough to send me home with my tail between my legs.

In reply to Paul R:

Well, crux sequence.

***Beta spoiler alert!***

Left hand undercut, right hand smallish crimp.
Left foot on good edge out left. Right foot just next to it on smear. Balancey move up to slot with nut placement in with right hand.
Left hand into good crimp just left.
Left hand again to small crimp, right foot in hole.
Stand up all the way with right hand to wide pinch.
Left foot kicks round onto adrenaline ledge, left hand into crack on adrenaline, and shuffle very awkwardly into it. Feels scary this bit.

Pete has another sequence, but my way feels easier if it works for you.

In reply to pigeonjim:

Was only the sheath outer, would have taken a bit more to go through the core.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Cool
Well done

In reply to Paul R:
>

Thanks for that, comment added.

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=7095


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs: Very efficient.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Touche on the beta. I wasnt sure i was doing (well not doing) the move to the pinch right, seems i was

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

You just ruined my onsight you cock! :0)

Nice one Adam, good effort.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

good effort adam, on your successful attempt did you place the gear on the lead or was it already in?

In reply to UKC News: well done Adam

In reply to Adam Ellwood:

All in-situ pegs, which we just left the draws on each time. Plus the wire was left in each time. We off course pulled the rope each time, leading the climb in full.

Would be a good effort putting the gear in every time.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

What sport grade would you give it?

In reply to UKC News:

bloody good effort adam!

In reply to Adam Ellwood:

Not sure. Was always supposed to be 8a/8a+. Maybe placing ALL gear on lead!

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Well done Adam.... I've often looked at this line although I could never imagine climbing it. Would you say now you have done it that you have climbed a 8a Sport route or an E8 Trad route ?

In reply to DaveyP:

Surley you cant claim a trad route if you leave gear there, no disrespect to Adam i think its great hes climbed it, but my target is to get it from ground up with all gear placed on lead thats how i went for constables and thats how i aim to climb everything in wiltons, and the ones i dont get up with gear placed as i go, im obviously not ready for yet. Still though hats off to you Adam what ever the way its a ballsey route top job.

In reply to wilton warrior:

You'll find that all nearly almost all ground up ascents of hard trad routes the gear is not removed for the next attempt. This is an ideal that is simply impratical and would be rediculous if say each person wanted 5 attempts in the day.

It's a perfect world you're looking for there, but one which will lead to a lot less climbing actually achieved in life. You'll of course gain maximum respect and admiration from me if you do strip your hardest routes every time!

Nice Adam on your ascent.

In reply to UKC News: On your marks, get set, here we go.

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: I think peoples confusion comes from the fact that they dont realise/forget, E8 is for the onsight, ground up, no knowledge, balls out ascent. Doing an ascent of a route in any other style is your choice (ideally as a result of blowing the onsight) and only a comparison can be made to the E8 grade. Which is what Adam has done. Be true to oneself and ones goals, thats all that matters.

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:

I totaly agree with you on this i dont hold argumeant for how others climb its just something i do myself, (slow process for me) but i work hard at it to reach my goals, 3 attempts then home until next time is a rule i stick by. Maybe when i reach these levels i will prob do the same maybe.

In reply to DaveyP:

As the pegs held, probably a sport route. If they had failed, an E8

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Well done Adam!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

A bit like Schroedinger's cat then?

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Nice one Adam, about time it got another ascent. Have you had a look at Toxic?

In reply to gaz parry:

Tried it years ago, but didn't fancy sticking my neck out. Might try it again soon. More interested in the Darwen Weasel. The route, not Ian

In reply to Adam Lincoln: ohhhhhh yeah cool.

In reply to UKC News: Good effort!