UKC

Beal Joker - experiences?

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 TobyA 24 Mar 2010
Dudes - I'm just about to blow a load of money on new ropes. What do folks think of the Joker? I've had a revelation for some time (sort of trashed now and much shorter than originally!) and found it really useful, but a local shop has the Jokers at a decent price and I like it being rated as a half as well as a single. I've used the Revelation as a half and it works fine, but they aren't actually tested for that role.

I know there are other options out there, but I can buy the Joker from my local shop, and nowhere in my city stocks the Mammut Serenity, and I'm off on a trip in a week so international ordering ain't possible. So I'm interested in how folks have found the Joker specifically. Hard wearing or not? Easy to handle or (k)not? etc.

Thanks
 Nigel Modern 24 Mar 2010
In reply to Nigel Modern: There was another one but I can't find it...try the Gear forum
 danm 24 Mar 2010
In reply to TobyA:

Hard wearing? No. Easy to handle and knot? Yes

I got mine for an alpine rock trip, where the main part of the routes would be using 2 half ropes, with some easier moving together on ridges thrown in. I've never been that psyched using one strand of a half rope in this way, so having the Joker which is a bit thicker and can be used with an 8.5 on the technical stuff is ideal.

I've used it as a single as well at a push, but this did noticeably hammer it. Also, you can't use it with a grigri. For a while it was my grit rope - just tie in to the middle and off you go. If you don't need it for the reasons I got mine, I'd question why so thin? Going so thin will really limit the lifespan. But, for what I've used it for, I'd buy one again. And if you're travelling and want a do-it-all rope, it's perfect.
OP TobyA 24 Mar 2010
In reply to danm: I've used my Revelation as a "travel rope": for example when I was flying to Norway and was meeting someone to climb with who didn't have a rope. I've also taken it on road trips in Norway where there was sport climbing (single) and trad (using it as a half). I've also used it for long ice routes when climbing as a three, leading on it and another half rope then deciding who out of my mates is fattest and tying him on to the Revelation to second on! And even just mileage days where you're doing lots of routes at a crag but not expecting to fall off much.

I have an Edlinger for working sports routes and general cragging.
 threepeaks 25 Mar 2010
In reply to TobyA: I've had mine for a while now Toby and really like it. I've taken it on several Alpine trips where I've needed a glacier/peak bagging rope, multi pitch, and sport rope. I've found it very versatile. I have the Golden Dry 50m one and it seems to have plenty of life in it yet. I wouldn't be using it to work my sports projects though! You can, of course, get lighter still these days. It was the lightest on the market when I bought it. I would buy another one and it handles really nicely as it's not as stiff as Mammut ropes (but maybe wouldn't last as long?). Hope that helps, Dave S
OP TobyA 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Dave Sarkar: Thanks Dave - that sounds good. I'm just replacing an Iceline that has done great service since I bought it in (cough)<look slightly shamefaced> 2002, and I've had decent experiences with Beal Edlingers as well considering they are very cheap. But loads of people seem to have it in for Beal. I should go with my own experiences and not be swayed by peer group pressure! Cheers.
ypy 25 Mar 2010
I must be in a minority here, but I'm not keep on the Joker.
My friend has one and found it doesn't last very long. Also I found it a bit too slick to belay with, but that is just me.
OP TobyA 25 Mar 2010
In reply to ypy: What belay device were you using? I always found my Revelation (9.2mm) was fine with my ATC guide, but I could well imagine it being very slick on an old standard ATC for example.

What sort of use was your mate using his for? A general everything rope? Or occasional more specialist jobs?

Cheers.
ypy 25 Mar 2010
I was using a Reverso3 with it.

We were using it in europe on long single pitch routes over 30 metres.

It is just a personal thing, but I found I dislike the rope.

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