/ Where have all the climbers gone?

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Beeston Tor on a decent Sunday in March:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=140536

Not exactly heaving!


Chris
petestack - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

So what happened to the identical topic I already replied to? :-/
The Green Giant - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

They shrunk in all the wet weather. They're there, just so small you can't see.
Mike Stretford - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: Not that surprising surely? It was a good day for the grit.
Al Randall on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: I've got a theory that non-bolted limestone has gone out of fashion. I've seen a similar thing in the Avon Gorge. Back in the 70's, 80's and 90's Avon was ALWAYS heaving.

Al
In reply to Papillon:

It was 7C at Curbar Gap, with brisk wind - too raw for me!


Chris
Eagle River - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I was thinking the same thing when I had Widdop to myself on Sunday morning but just as I was leaving 3 groups of people turned up.

I initially got out of the car at bridestones only to be blown straight back in by the wind. Widdop was superbly sheltered.
idiotproof (Buxton MC) - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

not much below hvs... too hard for me
Offwidth - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

A few folk at Woodhouse Scar on Sun, lovely despite the breeze.
gribble - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Similar to Millstone on Saturday. I thought it would be rammed, but very few people there. Embankment wall and area was empty!
James Jackson on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to tradlad:

Yes, my parents used to climb at Avon when the carpark was full, routes were queued for, and lots of tents under the crags was not a rare occurance...
Sankey - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: I have been to Beeston a couple of times over the last few years. Wonder if some of the reason is that the crag is being reclaimed by nature? Tried Beetson Eliminate last time I was there and the first VS approach pitch was in a terrible state, even allowing for typical limestone-ness; the first traverse pitch was fine, but the second looked almost impassable due to a tree/foliage, so we bailed. A sad state for a local classic. Not ventured right to try and approach the right hand flank, but by all accounts this is deatly. Don't know if this is just par for the teritory and I need to man up, but the crag seemed discintly more in decline than other lime-stone venues. Is some kind of gardening/clean-up possible or desirable?
tallsteve - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: Bouldering maybe. A number of times I've passed empty crags to find groups bouldering nearby. Bouldering has really grown as a sport, I really must try it sometime!
Babika - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
yes and its always nicer at Beeston in March when you don't have to thrash around in the undergrowth and nettles. But there are only a few routes of each grade there so its never going to be hugely popular.

But Stoney is a different matter - loads of routes at all grades, despite the perception, and its usually quiet as the grave..... shhhhh.

Suits me.
grubes - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> A few folk at Woodhouse Scar on Sun, lovely despite the breeze.

Surprised woodhouse was busy I always thought of it as a evening crag.
Froggatt was a bit breezy but nice. Saw quite a few people there
ksjs - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: anything 'hard', non-grit, or slightly esoteric / different, especially trad, doesnt get done anymore; lots more people climbing except theyre not actually climbing, numbers up and standards down.
John_Hat - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to ksjs:

Ok, but we had the whole of the Sunset Slab area to ourselves for the entire day yesterday...
Blue Straggler - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

If it pleases you Chris, I was working voluntarily all day yesterday, overheating in a mostly glass building, mildly frustrated that it was so nice and sunny, but I did get to see new national record set, so that was nice.
lex - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I've been there over a few years on and off and never seen anyone else there either.

It is a bit vegetated, but I suspect its just not 'cool' and 'fashionable' to go there.

Cheers,

lex
mikeski - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I was talking about beeston yesterday actually. Great crag, especially at this time of year.

I'd happily head up there myself but i'm feeling weak after an injury. Really want to do black grub
tlm - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

We were thinking this on Saturday, with the whole of Clogwyn Bochlwyd to ourselves, and ruminating how great it is! Climbing has become mainstream, and yet it is easier than ever to find a deserted crag, with peace and quiet and fantastic routes... :-) Yippeee!!! :-)
peewee2008 - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Eagle River: i ended up at widdop in the afternoon was a great afternoon/evening session, went there after getting shutdown and battered by the gale force winds at earl.
cranc on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: Happily Cratcliffe was pretty empty also! Perhaps everybody was climbing indoors!
Mike Stretford - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: You're right though it was a quiet day for some reason. Glanced over at Stanage Pop End as we drove past, and even that didn't look as busy as you would have expected.
Eagle River - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to peewee2008:

I couldn't believe how good it was at the plantation boulders especially after getting battered by the winds walking around the reservoir.

Glad other people got there to enjoy it later.
stewieatb on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: Hard limestone trad seems to be way out of fashion. When did anyone last tick Diary of a Sane Man (E7 6b) at Trowbarrow? Logbook here shows no ticks. What was the last climbing film to feature limestone trad?

Out of interest, does anyone know the hardest limestone trad route in the UK? I'd be interested to know.
Oceanwall - on 29 Mar 2010

> It was 7C at Curbar Gap, with brisk wind - too raw for me!

Yes, it was very windy when I arrived at Burbage North car park so a quick change of plan lead to us climbing on Carl Wark.

We had a great day out of the wind and lots of sun up until 3.00pm when the cliff went into the shade.

Some people climbing on Burbage North and South but fewer than normal for a Sunday.
ChrisJD on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to cranc:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) Happily Cratcliffe was pretty empty also! Perhaps everybody was climbing indoors!

Nope, there were only 6 people at The Edge in Sheff late afternoon yesterday.

Al Evans on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Sankey:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) I have been to Beeston a couple of times over the last few years. Wonder if some of the reason is that the crag is being reclaimed by nature? Tried Beetson Eliminate last time I was there and the first VS approach pitch was in a terrible state, even allowing for typical limestone-ness; the first traverse pitch was fine, but the second looked almost impassable due to a tree/foliage, so we bailed. A sad state for a local classic.

You mean like they were originally climbed?
Bulls Crack - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to stewieatb:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) Hard limestone trad seems to be way out of fashion. When did anyone last tick Diary of a Sane Man (E7 6b) at Trowbarrow? Logbook here shows no ticks. What was the last climbing film to feature limestone trad?
>
> Out of interest, does anyone know the hardest limestone trad route in the UK? I'd be interested to know.

Big Issue?
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robw007 - on 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Always keen to let others test the freeze thaw effect on the limestone early spring!

I have climbed a fair bit at Beeston over the years and absoluteley love it - mega crag for E3. However the last time I did Catharsis (and it was some time ago!) I got severely frightened on the top - really grassy/dirty etc etc.

It could do with a clean up - but probably dirtier than usual due to lack of traffic.
David Butler on 29 Mar 2010 - 5acf9d3e.bb.sky.com
In reply to Chris Craggs: I think all trad climbing venues are quiet now. I remember when you had to queue for any route at Tremadoc, now you can pretty much choose whichever route you like and expect to get on it. Sign of the times I guess.
caradoc - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: It is curious, we were at a deserted High Tor on a perfect day last September, the same for Stoney and these places tick the boxes for the modern climber. Stygian Wall, a bit of an Arrans classic, which I did a few years ago looked like it hadn't been climbed for ten years. Has anyone been up it recently?
Al Randall on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: The tone of most of these posts tends to support the theory that trad limestone is going out of fashion. I am however surprised that Tremadoc is not seeing much traffic. High mountain crags perhaps but a roadside multi-pitch venue ??? Unfortunately I think that this trend just might increase the pressure for more widespread bolting.

Al
tallsop on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: trad lime does appear to be most uncool, they may as well bolt it all, then the routes would get climbed in sure. i reckon its basically cos grit trad is better :P
Andl - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: I remember a midweek evening in June last year when I walked past the trad limestone crags in the Derwent Valley; Willersley, Wildcat, High Tor and Pic Tor. Not a soul to be seen climbing. No doubt a different story on the Eastern Edges.
Rampikino - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

They were probably too worried about people running off with their trainers.
erikb56 - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to tallsop:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) trad lime does appear to be most uncool, they may as well bolt it all, then the routes would get climbed in sure. i reckon its basically cos grit trad is better :P

pembroke still has two or three visitors on a bank holiday weekend.

In reply to Rampikino:
>
>
> They were probably too worried about people running off with their trainers.

For sure I kept mine in sight at all times!


Chris
petestack - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Rampikino:

So you never saw my reply to Chris's (now lost) identical topic on Sunday night? Which said something like 'Too scared of borrowing your trainers when you weren't even there'... ;-)
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to David Butler:
> I remember when you had to queue for any route at Tremadoc, now you can pretty much choose whichever route you like and expect to get on it.

When we were there 2 weeks ago there were queues for the classics (Christmas Curry, One Step in the Clouds, the Plum) and several teams on more obscure routes as well.
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
The last definitive guide to Beeston Tor is (a) 23 years old, and (b) out of print. Coincidence?
aquazepp - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

We wondered that last summer when we had a warm & sunny Wildcat to ourselves That would never have been the case 15-20 years ago. Trad limestone seems to be unfashionable these.
I suspect everyone was either indoors (as an aside, I can't belive how many people at the local wall have never climbed outdoors) or bouldering.

Beeston is a little beyond me currently but I loved it there years ago and it's one of my aims after restarting climbing to get back up to speed enough to go there again.
In reply to petestack:

Yes I saw your reply, I was in the process of uploading the Beeston crag-shot to UKC so the other thread could be deleted.


Chris
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> The last definitive guide to Beeston Tor is (a) 23 years old, and (b) out of print. Coincidence?

Northern Limestone is also out of print now (we didn't do enough!) so the situation is only likely to get worse!


Chris
GrahamD - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Toreador:

A sad reflection on the 'no star' guidebook experiment is that you know exactly which half dozen routes will have the queues on them. Lets hope the new guide proves more of an inspiration.
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to GrahamD:
We were persuaded by the Rockfax allocation of 2 stars to Hail Bebe to give it a try, despite the CC guide calling it 'poor' - and we agreed with Rockfax :)
Ada on 30 Mar 2010 - host86-156-85-175.range86-156.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I can never remember it heaving. I think generally limestone is not as popular. You could get a clear run at stoney all year round now, not like the old days.
jim jones on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
When ever I pass Stoney, I've noticed it's usually deserted but a few hundred yards up the road people are struggling to park for Horseshoe, even in really great weather. Sums it up I suppose.
Tubbs on 30 Mar 2010 - 212.183.140.22 whois?
In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC): and yet "Pocket Symphony" is one of the finest limestone HVS/E1's I have ever done.... oops
Andrew Smith - on 30 Mar 2010
In reply to jim jones: Not if you want to go sport climbing!!
In reply to andyyyy:
> (In reply to jim jones) Not if you want to go sport climbing!!

No, he is right, it does sum it up. Folks would rather clip bolts in a grotty quarry as opposed to doing trad classic on natural limestone.


Chris
French Erick - on 31 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
all the better for us!!!!!
Let them pile up in grotty places I say...if there's one thing I don't like is busy venues. If I want to see people I stay in Glasgow city centre =(
Sod the social aspect...

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