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Ptarmagin Slabs - Lofoten

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 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Mar 2010
I have a real deja-vu feeling about this. I am pretty sure that in the past 12 months someone sent me some details about new routes on Ptarmigan Slabs on Lofoten. I have spent a happy week looking for these to no avail.

If this rings a bell with anyone please get in touch, I am working on a Lofoten Update and would love to include the routes (if they actually exist!).

Chris
 FedUp 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Can't help you with Ptarmigan Slabs unfortunately. However I've spoken to Mick Fowler with reference to the current guidebook description and topo of the route, "The Codfather" being incorrect. It appears the line is in fact as I described in the final post on the below thread:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=391267&v=1#x5647460

It would be nice to see this updated.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Mar 2010
 FedUp 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Mick says that the vid was of the first ascent - although each section was completed several times to use different camera angles etc. Nevertheless, I confirmed with him that it is the line that I describe.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Mar 2010
In reply to FedUp:

Well it doesn't match what he wrote!

I'll try and cobble something for the update.


Chris
 FedUp 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Well it doesn't match what he wrote!

I beg to differ! It matches perfectly. I think you've assumed their reference to the 'small overlap' to be higher than it actually is. If instead, you assume it to be the overlap right of the black number 7 on page 146 of the current guide, then the first acent description and the video footage complement each other. This then ties in with the description on the final post of my thread.
Basically, follow The Codfather as described in the guide, then divert onto Sondagskole turen to its belay on the topo, as shown just before it darts left, but instead of moving left move up, across the orange streak rightwards (where Fowler fell) to gain the diagonal crack and follow this to the angle of the big roof.

Anyway, that's all the info I've gained from communication with Mick Fowler and the vid of his first ascent. That's the route I'll be following whatever you decide to print!!!
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Mar 2010
In reply to FedUp:

Actually, having reread it, I think you may well be right! A much better line it is too.

The line in the book was based on that original description and a line drawn on a photo. I don't know who drew that but I suspect they made the same mistake you have outlined above.

Cheers for that.

Chris
 FedUp 29 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Nice one!

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