UKC

Is there much there? If so, where, how hard, etc..?

In reply to Caspar:

I don't wish to annoy you with my response when I say that it is a little like asking:

"Climbing in Britain, is there much there? What's it like?"

I seriously suggest looking online for a few books because there is a lot of mountaineering in New Zealand, and especially (but not exclusively) the South Island.

In reply to Rampikino:

Ha, ha, you've said it.

There's a lifetimes worth (and probably much more) - as easy or as difficult as you like. Here's a starter:

http://alpineclub.org.nz/product?filter0=16

Enjoy.

In reply to Caspar:

Come on Casper, son, how long is a piece of string?!

First you wanted to climb Aconcagua in the South American winter.....

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=397081&v=1#x5715704

And now you're asking questions like that!

In reply to kidA:

I'm a kid with big dreams, what can I say??

The Anconcagua thing was because it needed to fit with holidays. I've learnt from my mistake, and shall try it it slightly better conditions...

I asked an open question (and I did realise quite how open it was) because other than knowing that there is mountaineering in NZ, I know literally nothing else. The South Island tip was useful, as I have friends who live there..

In reply to Caspar:

There is alot of mountaineering and mountains, Mostly SI. google "southern alps"
All grades
NZ mountains are isolated compared to European ones. You need to be self sufficient and prepared for long walks.
The weather can be bad too
Good guiding companies are easily available

In reply to KiwiPrincess:
Check out mountainz.co.nz they have a beginners forum for questions.
Mostly North Island based but I believe they have trips.

In reply to Caspar:

Plenty of Alpine stuff in the South Island as has been said but I wouldn't rate NZ for rock climbing.

If you're thinking of going there from Britain I'd risk the wrath of Kiwi climbers and suggest you'd fly over a lot of better places in order to get there.

In reply to Removed User:

Alpine: More than you could ever shake a stick at. From amazing trekking mountains to 6+ (NZ grade).

Rock: Agree that the Southern Alps are NOT a rock-climbing destination. However, Castle Hill (bouldering), the Darrans, Whanganui Bay etc etc are all world-class.

NZ winter is not ideal for either, unless you are keen on short cold days and plenty of snow. Late spring (Nov) to Summer (Feb) are the best times to come climb.

In reply to inzpired:

No no young man, Winter climbing is Winter climbing, and NZ has routes which stack up with the best anywhere.

Apologies for hijacking this thread a bit - is there much alpine stuff on N Island?

Might be heading over in Sept/Oct which I guess is late Winter in NZ?

In reply to MJH:

I was also considering going over in early October.. So far I've got that North Island is better for rock (bouldering) and the Southern Alps provide some interesting challenges.

Can you tell me what it'd be like to find partners out there? I know it's going to be no Chamonix, but I wondered if there was a strong base of climbers..

In reply to MJH:

No big alpine stuff on the North island, but Taranaki is a good climb, and there's a whole heap of good shorter Winter lines on the volcanoes in the Central North Island. Plenty to keep you going.

In reply to Al Walker: Thanks Al - a combined trip to visit my mum (in Wanganui), rugby world cup and some climbing seems in order!

In reply to Caspar: There is plenty of rock climbing in the South Island, in fact you are probably best basing yourself down there if you want both Mountaineering and cragging.

Not sure what conditions you can expect in October, most summer alpine routes are done in the Nov-Feb time, maybe you will be lucky with conditions and weather. Its probably comparable with going to Chamonix in May i.e. late spring. Depends what you want to do...

For mountaineering there are loads of opportunities all down the length of Southern Alps! I suggest getting hold of a few of the NZAC guidebooks. The Mt Cook area has all the big alpine peaks in it such as: Mt Cook, Tasman, Sefton etc.. Be aware that access to some of these climbs can be as hard, if not harder, than the climbs themselves. Also, being only 50-80 km from the Tasman sea, you can expect your climbing windows to be very short, sometimes non-existent, so be flexible and follow the good weather! Many climbers use helicopters to get into the high huts to save time on walking and make best use of good weather.

Another area/peak you might be interested in is Mt Aspiring, a fantastic peak with snow routes at lots of grades and probably a good intro to NZ mountaineering.

If you are into long alpine rock climbs then the Darran mountains in Fiordland is your best bet. I haven't been there much, but Mt Sabre is a fantastic peak in this area.

A good overview of some our best peaks can be found in this book, not really a guide book but gives a taste of NZ mountaineering:

http://www.silverfernz.com/652-classic-peaks-of-new-zealand-book-by-hugh-lo...


As for cragging, well Paynes Ford springs to mind, (Nelson area) but there are plenty of spots to keep you occupied and again the NZAC has a South Island rock climbing guidebook.

http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/south-island-rock

Consider joining the NZAC for discounts on guidebooks and huts and the mountainz forum could be useful for finding partners.

http://mountainz.co.nz/index.php

Hope this helps

Jono

In reply to Ruahine Tramper:
Sept/ oct is spring.
It is a good time for Mountaineering conditions if you get good weather
Alpine rock routes will be wet with snow melt often but cragging will be fine.
The weather will be 'Changable"
Good bouldering at Castle hill, near Christchurch

In reply to Ruahine Tramper:

Wow! Now that's a reply and a half! Thanks!

In reply to Caspar:
I found Kiwis climbers very open and friendly and keen......finding partners should be easy, we climbed Aspiring SW ridge with a great local lass we met in the hut....slightly unwashed but good fun nonetheless
I visited and climbed in Feb 2000 and had a glorious stable month with blue skies, no wind and neve
The south Island is a mountaineers paradise.....uncrowded mountains and lots of adventures to be had..... I particulary remember how strange it was to be on top of Mt tasman ,NZ second highest hill and able to sea the Tasman sea glistening in sunlight a long long way below.
I remember Mt Tutuko in S. island was a real mountaineers peak but unfinished business.....hope you enjoy your trip

In reply to Caspar:
a NZ mountain peculiarity to protect endless ropelengths of steep unprotected neve is the snowstake- aprox one metre long length of aluminium angle which you bash into the hilt- excellent on v steep slopes . The kiwis laugh at the uk climbers for their down climbing ineptness. Usually in UK we climb up and walk off but in NZ you climb up and climb down

In reply to Caspar:

As others said, there is loads of mountaineering in NZ and it really comes down to how much time you have and what you want to do, balanced with your previous alpine experience.

When are you coming out here? Ruahine Tranpers comment re. short weather windows is spot on, although the weather is often more settled in winter. Approaches to most climbs in NZ often require a day and so good fitness and pack fitness is essential. Flying in is sometimes an option but obviously it costs a bit and if you plan to walk out, it may be wise to already know the route from having walked in.

Mount Ruapehu, in the central North Island, is a great place to learn and consolidate mountaineering basics - it has easy access to entry-level and moderate ridge and slope climbs and short steeper climbs all on the one mountain, and no major glaciers to deal with. However, you mentioned you have mates in the South Island so Arthur's Pass, near Christchurch, is a good introductory venue and again, no major glaciers to deal with. Some of the climbing there is pretty handy to the road so approache times range from a couple of hours to one day.

The website www.mountainz.co.nz is the main mountaineering site for NZ and the forum is a good place to find partners and ask questions, as others said. Climbers from all over NZ use and contribute to the site.

One of the team who run the Mountainz site is running a FREE instruction course in Arthur's Pass in July:

http://mountainz.co.nz/content/article/event/event14.php

The aim of the course is to help climbers with an existing level of basic mountaineering knowledge progress into pitch climbing, and to help those climbing in the NZ grade 2 range (European grade PD, PD+) progress their skill on steeper ground.

Hope this helps. : )

In reply to Francesca E:

Yes, it does! Thanks

I was looking at going out there from October for a couple of months, based in Christchurch.

In reply to Caspar:
Well, November is generally a gorgeous month for climbing, conditions-wise
: )

You'll be 2 hours from Arthur's Pass
4.5 hours from Aoraki Mt Cook National Park
5.5 hours from Queenstown/Wanaka
5-6 hours from the West Coast neves (Upper Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, Westland National Park - generally a fly-in climbing area)
10 hours from the Darran Mountains

All this is driving time only, it does not include breaks, food stops, etc.

In reply to Francesca E:

This is sounding very much to my liking! Now, to find some partners!

In reply to Caspar:

A few weeks ago I went to a talk by this guy (http://www.highmountaineering.com/), half of which was about Alpine new-routing in New Zealand. There is lots to go at, I am sure he would be happy to answer your emails about it...

In reply to Caspar: In regards to meeting climbers. I came to Queenstown last October knowing no one, just had my gear. Theres a strong bouldering and climbing scene here and found it easy to meet people to crag with and Mountaineer. Its a good base. Wanaka is idealy situated for the Mount Aspiring region but harder to find jobs. Queenstowns about 3-3.5 hours to the Darrens, hour and a half to Mount Aspiring and 3 and a half hours to Cook. Also has the Remarks on its door step which makes for an entertaining day out in both summer and winter.