UKC

I've got a (recently puurchased) Patagonia Ascenionist in red.

It seems to have 'black up' a lot around the cuffs, neck, around the zip etc. (no complaints about the form or function though, fantastic bit of kit).

How should I wash it? I am paranoid about washing any shell layer garment and destroying its functionality. Is this still the case? I know patagonia say you can wash it in cold water, but the outdoors market is hardly going to make jackets that you can't clean..... (officialy....)

Thoughts?

In reply to ClimberEd: use granny soap flakes. Big tescos stock them

In reply to ClimberEd: I believe NikWax do recomend you use their Tech Wash to wash it - and then they have a Soft Shell proofer - most good outdoor shops should stock it - or be able to get it in for you!! I always use Nikwax and it has never not performed anything but amazingly!
D

In reply to ClimberEd: Does anyone else suspect that the Nikwax Direct In re-proofer is just PVA glue?

In reply to wayno265:

But do you want to take that chance!

In reply to ClimberEd:
I use soap flakes to wash softshell. It doesn't need proofing, but if you must, use a spray on proofer and not a "wash in" proofer, as it will destroy the wicking abilities.

In reply to Root1:
I use Nikwax tech wash and a Direct wash in proofer from nikwax and it seems to be fine...
If you want to keep the weatherproofing ability then you DO need to re-proof it! It is the only thing that causes water to 'bead' on the outside of the fabric and run off rather than saturating the face fabric and then the rest of the jacket.

James

In reply to ClimberEd:

Wash it in whatever you want to, just don't use fabric softener or bleach, the main thing is to make sure it is very well rinsed. Any trace of soap/detergent on the fabric will prevent water beading.

After that if you use re-proofer the choice is between wash in stuff which is easy but coats inside and outside of the garment, or spray on which is more effort but only coats the outside (where you want it).

Then tumble dry on low heat (or iron if you're into such things) to reactivate the DWR and jobs a goodun!

In reply to Camdenelectric:
Wash in one works well better than the spray on.

But if you have a soft shell with a wicking layer (anything based on the pertex/pile concept etc.) the wash in one will render it pretty useless.
For PP to work you rely on the wicking layer to transport fluids to the outer layer where the condensate off. If you use a wash in waterproofing the wicking layer will be water proofed and not wick anymore. You will end up with a very sweaty soft shell.

In reply to uncontrollable:
excuse the spelling