/ NEWS: VIDEO: Mammut Team Hit The Grit
Interestingly the team's ticklist corresponds almost exactly to a list of routes published in the UKC Forums that have been covered in large chalk tick-marks.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53014
Some high tech camera work, not sure how they achieved it.
eg on 37 seconds you can see the shadow of some kind of UFO. Maybe they hired some drones for the filming?
It's a funky heli-cam...
See the Works website
>Maybe they hired some drones for the filming?
They did - check the website.
Hmmm pre-placed runners on many routes (London wall and Quietus what heros) and tick marks all over the place.
What a great way to publicise your brand......come back team America!
The trailer looks cool doesn't it. those camera angles look brilliant. From the looks of things it looks like there is a good variety of routes too - i.e. they didn't just do the hardest lines. I always like to see a wide range of grades in a climbing movie.
Don't really care about the tick marks.
Yeah, especially when they use the term 'uber wads'!
the amount of chalk on those routes does appear to take the piss, they may as well have gone to Dover. I've no idea if this is necessary to make the routes climbable as i don't climb at that grade and probably never will but it looks terrible. I hope they realise this and make a dam good effort of cleaning the place up.
> Hmmm pre-placed runners on many routes (London wall and Quietus what heros) and tick marks all over the place.
Not Quietus, looks like it might be Zen Boy (E7 6c). Don't know why it gets such a serious grade, looks quite amenable from the vid.
I saw massive tick marks all over Partheon Shot on 10th April. Don't know who it was but it looked piss poor.
I don't recall seeing silly amounts of chalk when Seb Grieve did the 2nd ascent for Hard Grit.
Is it really such a huge issue?
If its true, yes. The ticks marks in themselves are less so but that a sponsored group of talents on a funded trip should breach local ethics in this way is prety bad. The ethics are there for good reasons from aesthetics through spoiling the experience for others to, in extremis, affecting access.
Didn't Gaz Parry just climbed an E9 with pre-placed gear? Is it not OK on grit? Just genuinely asking
I blame guidebooks, those who author and edit them, and THE MEDIA!
Is it any worse than the English slapping chalk all over Font?
> Not Quietus, looks like it might be Zen Boy (E7 6c). Don't know why it gets such a serious grade, looks quite amenable from the vid.
At 0:27? Its clearly Quietus. Zen Boy goes up the arete.
hardly an accusation see 43 s in looks like a blue cam
> At 0:27? Its clearly Quietus. Zen Boy goes up the arete.
Oh yeah. I thought we were looking at the left side of the overhang. That's going to knacker a few onsights!
I think the BMC, Rockfax and Vertebrate in their guidebooks do a very good job in promoting good ethics on grit. As for the media, it depends, but most seem to me to support good ethics most of the time.
> Didn't Gaz Parry just climbed an E9 with pre-placed gear? Is it not OK on grit? Just genuinely asking
There's nothing 'wrong' with it on any rock type. There are various styles of lead ethically speaking, some regarded higher achievements than others.
Pre-placing gear on an E2 though seems a tad silly for an 'Uber-wad'; especially when the gear is not hard to place on lead. And half the challenge of London Wall (E5) is placing the gear; turning it into a clip up... well, my mum could do that. ish.
Doesn't really compare to Gaz Parry and The Big Issue.
I concur. But to a sponsor, Gritstone has sex appeal cos its so rare and bold and historic yadda yadda. Have you seen under-developed? Brilliant film about tradding in Fairhead.
> Didn't Gaz Parry just climbed an E9 with pre-placed gear? Is it not OK on grit? Just genuinely asking
london wall is E5, not E9. Preplaced gear on a route like LW is odd for a pro. Especially given the fact that Alex Honnald soloed the route onsight.
The point is that sponsored climbers act as role models and therefore influence behaviour.
...after the horse has bolted.
Is it wrong that I am utterly failing to care? At all? Not even a tiny bit?
Then don't join the discussion(?).
Amusingly found on the Mammut brand news page:
The TOPtoTOP expedition supported by Mammut has set itself the long-term goal of freeing the world from unnecessary waste. During its seven-year commitment, the Schwörer family from Switzerland has already cleared up 20,000 kg of waste all over the world.
Wonder if they'll be coming to clean up Burbage so you can't see every hold on every 'Hard Grit' route from the car park. I personally witnessed one of the least stylish ascents ever, when one of them was determined to get Offspring done for the cameras. In fact I didn't stay long enough to watch him do it.
Instead of them asking or knowing something about the venue? No, it's their trip, the burden is theirs. It's not like its a secret or anything and why would people assume they didn't already know?
Did they ask? Maybe the onus was on them as visitors?
I'm not particularly arsed about the ethics, most of the people enjoying the Burbage valley aren't climbers, and frankly, it looks shit when it's blathered in chalk.
Sod the ethics, it's basic respect.
We were there n sat, it looked a right mess. PS. I'm short of a prize letter for this issue's Summit letters page. So if anyone fancies a rant...it's firstname.lastname@example.org. Send a pic in too.
> We were there n sat, it looked a right mess. PS. I'm short of a prize letter for this issue's Summit letters page. So if anyone fancies a rant...it's email@example.com. Send a pic in too.
It's good to know that the BMC subscribes to good honest journalism standards. Are all your prize letters solicited in this manner?
on the subject of 'bloody sponsored heroes... coming here, covering our boulders in chalk...'
can I widen the debate and refer you to Neil Gresham's Masterclass in the current issue of Climber. Recommending liberal use of donkey lines/tick marks in Font accompanied by 'how-to' photos and no mention of either cleaning up or the local ethic. Those boulders look a bit of a mess too.
No comment about it on here. Maybe 'we' Brits should get our own house in order before we come across too self-righteously? Or is it ok when it's someone else's boulders, but when it's in our own back garden and it's foreign climbers, get the pitchforks and torches out?
I'm not sure what your issue is. Shall I just make one up, would you prefer that? Why don't you write one - you could win a nice rucsack.
Personally I think Mammut has destroyed any credibility it had in the UK for the foreseeable future ...
I'm writing you a letter now. Is it ok if it comes in by email?
one of your biggest fans
Tick marks aside, I thought the trailer was a bit naff. The camera work seemed a little over the top for a day out on grit (perhaps it would have been better suited for some larger walls). Especially as it showed routes that have been filmed before, often with them being climbed in 'better' (i.e. more interesting to watch) style.
> Tick marks aside, I thought the trailer was a bit naff. The camera work seemed a little over the top for a day out on grit (perhaps it would have been better suited for some larger walls).
On the contrary, I thought it was the best bit of filming I've seen. I agree I'd like to see it used on bigger crags.
Jeez. The mammut climbers are young and didn't know any better. But now they do. A useful learning experience for them. Although they did have a Mr Dawes with them some of the time!
I believe the tick marks are being cleaned off and a donation to the bmc s crag care fund is being made. Be good if they could issue a statement to.
There's tick marks all over the Peaks and at many bouldering and climbing areas in the Uk. Maybe we should set up a gallery to showcase them.
Maybe some good will come of this, maybe we should all use chalk a little sparingly.
It offered interesting perspectives, but it just struck me as style over content.
Your biggest fan
> but it just struck me as style over content.
But as I understand it, it was a trailer for a longer film. I'm no fan of grit or bouldering, but I'd love to see the longer film. Perhaps Brit film makers could take note of the methods used.
No, we don't like email. It's too modern. Quills only.
> I'm not sure what your issue is. Shall I just make one up, would you prefer that? Why don't you write one - you could win a nice rucsack.
Your post appears to be an attempt to solicit a letter on a specific subject by offering the prize to whoever writes that letter. Are you honestly saying that you can't understand why your readers may have an issue with this?
> Your biggest fan
No I am.
Just bought a quil.
I'm... ugh... sending... ugh... you... ugh... a semaphore... ugh... now... ugh... Alex.
You are right, one should wait before judging the whole film. However, The aim of the trailer is to entice me to see the 'bigger picture', and thus usually has the best bits in it. Based on the trailer, I am not motivated to seek the film out.
The camera work was flashy, but the content left me cold. Combined, the flashy camera work and poor content made it seem shallow. I guess in my mind grit climbing is understated and...erm..gritty, the trailer was very slick and showed the climbing to be a bit too convenient.
It was just an opportunistic plug for our letters page. It'd have to be a good letter to win the prize, it wouldn't automatically win anything, or even get published.
A quick note to all those excited by the helicopter camera footage. One of the reason's it feels a little bit soul-less is because they couldn't record sound, because the propellers are too loud.
Which also made me think about something which no one else seemed to mention. Although perhaps a very minor point, it should be said that flying that loud machine around the Peak District during lambing season was probably inappropriate.
It isn't very loud but the noise recorded on the camera (which is 6 inches from the rotors) is too much to allow you to record a soundtrack
And I hope it wasn't being flown after the volcano eruption!
I though the 'copter footage was great, real showing the grit from a different perspective. Looking forwards to the full thing.
> No, we don't like email. It's too modern. Quills only.
Would green ink be acceptable/appropriate?
We'll have to agree to differ.
Your not assuming it was a real, full-sized jellycopter are you?
> We'll have to agree to differ.
The little toy helicopter paused no threat to lambing sheep - and I've delivered many hundreds of lambs.
The Euros were the spawn of satan though and may run off with your wife/children/parents and eat them ; o )
I'm in advertising.
I like Bill Hicks. Seen that video many times.
Should I kill myself?
If I do will you be able to post on here.
Am I the ruiner of all things good?
Will there be daily news at UKC, Scottish winter reports, the crag database, weekly articles, the FS forums, a place for people to exrpess themselves and share their photos: all things UKC is funded by advertising.
The UKC team work hard on this site.
Do you not want UKC to exist? Because that is what you are saying.
That's what I like about you Mick.
You can take a good joke.
Hooray, now the Burbage valley will be free from unsightly chalk marks forever! What, you mean other people use chalk there as well?
I thought the film looked amazing.
> That's what I like about you Mick.
> You can take a good joke.
Even the old ones ... x
> Do you not want UKC to exist? Because that is what you are saying.
Some light reading for you Mick:
> Some light reading for you Mick:
5.14c First ascent Chris Sharma April 1997 at Virgin River Gorge, Arizona, USA
I am not, but it was enough to worry a large dog when I saw it.
Witty sales pitch (get it?) here:
PORTLANDCLIMBER - that's easy for you to say ;-)
nightnight ;) xx
Tick marks and ethics aside, I thought the video trailer was really intriguing. How often do you see film or stills of climbing, and can honestly say "that's different"? This film showed an early example of what looked (to me) like a really exciting and completely different new filming technique.
It also gave rise to one of the most surreal photographs I've seen in ages:-
(Follow this link, and then click on the 4th photo in the row).
(and by surreal, I don't mean the rather odd sight of JD cranking out Offspring, some 25 years after I photographed him on a previous ascent...!).
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