/ NEW ARTICLE: Climbing the Comici VII / E3 5c, Dolomites

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UKC Articles - on 22 Apr 2010
[Comici exposure - Duncans perspective as he leads pitch 5, 2 kb]"On the mountains we feel the joy of life, the emotion of being good and the relief of forgetting earthly things: all this because we are closer to the sky". Emilo Comici (1933).

The Comici route is arguably the most famous route in the Dolomites, taking a striking line up the seemingly blank north face of Cima Grande, the largest of the Tre Cime towers.

Here James Rushforth takes us on a heart-stopping journey up this huge limestone wall...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2696

Jim Walton on 22 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: I climbed the route with Neil 4 or 5 years ago. The cloud had been coming in and out all day. When i pulled out of the wet chimney (~pitch 10) I was fully in the cloud. Set up a hanging belay on a wire and in-situ pegs. Brought Neil up and he set off along the traverse line. Halfway along, the cloud lifted and showed how exposed we were. Nothing but 1000's feet of air to the scree below.

Never had exposure like it.

Great route, easy descent as long as you find the right way.
In reply to UKC Articles:

The article mentions 'pitons and pegs' a couple of times - 'bolts and pegs' maybe? Just wondering.

Chris
Heike - on 22 Apr 2010
In reply to Jim Walton:
> (In reply to UKC Articles) I climbed the route with Neil 4 or 5 years ago. The cloud had been coming in and out all day. When i pulled out of the wet chimney (~pitch 10) I was fully in the cloud. Set up a hanging belay on a wire and in-situ pegs. Brought Neil up and he set off along the traverse line. Halfway along, the cloud lifted and showed how exposed we were. Nothing but 1000's feet of air to the scree below.
>
> Never had exposure like it.


The exposure is amazing, isn't it? One of my favourite routes in the Alps. Just beautiful!
>
> Great route, easy descent as long as you find the right way.

dannyboy69 - on 22 Apr 2010
Great to see this article... I have this route on a lifetime wishlist and was glad to see it sat in the news section as I logged in. One day hopefully...
RBK - on 22 Apr 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs: I think we clipped one bolt on the whole route if I remember right, it is impressively bolt free. There are a lot of pegs on it but how many of these would stop a fall is open to question. Lots of quickdraws is a good tip!
BenTiffin - on 22 Apr 2010
In reply to Kendal47: Memories - Dan Robinson is that you coming from Kendal?

Anyway, great route and I am glad to here someone else grade it at E3. Realistically well protected 5c but pitches 3 - 7 are consistently HVS 5b (one of the pitches) and upwards.

Ben
Dunx - on 23 Apr 2010
Brings back the good memories Rushy, good work. Sorry for falling asleep on the drive home! You still have my guidebook though!!
Franco Cookson on 23 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent article. Maybe we could get one for the Hasse and the Fisch? :-)

Also, i'm sure that first picture is actually Bempton Cliffs....
billb - on 23 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Great article. Did the Comici, Brandler Hasse and Yellow edge last year and has to go down as my most memorable week's clibming ever.
James Rushforth - on 28 Apr 2010
In reply to Dunx: Guidebook? What Guidebook? *Hides... I'll get it back to you matey!
James Rushforth - on 28 Apr 2010
In reply to F Manko: Thanks very much, is hard trying to remember how to write in an articulate manner! I'm heading to ISO2000 so maybe will do for one for that one, we shall see. Jack has already done a Hasse article at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=459 I believe :)

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