/ NEW ARTICLE: Rodellar - The Land of Lactic

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UKC Articles - on 30 Apr 2010
[El Delfin (F7c+) is man-made and proud of it; or so it seems. Steep too..., 4 kb]Peak Limestone addict Keith Sharples takes a couple of weeks off from Raven Tor and heads to the 'Land of Lactic' - the limestone Mecca of Rodellar in northeast Spain.

"I should tell you straight out that neither big nor steep get even close to describing Rodellar adequately..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2521

Ramon Marin - on 30 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Not quite the latest crag, (maybe 4/5 years ago) but anyway, really good article. Now the talk is Oliana, Bielsa, Baltzola, even Margalef...

By the way, I don't think Sept/Oct is the best time to go, I got too cold between tries end of Sept last year. This year I'm back to the usual August regime.
Ramon Marin - on 30 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

A few more bits of extra beta: Best way to get there is fly Ryanair to Zaragoza, less than 2h drive (they don't fly there in winter). To warm-up, "Pince Sans Rire" sector is far better than the "rammed" and polished Camino. Visit Refugio Kalandraka and borrow their guidebook, it's the most up-to-date with grades and new routes added.
highclimber - on 01 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: I can't dissagree more about the local food. I thought the food at Kalandraka was good for the money and Is quick and the bar in the centre of Rodellar was very good! the nearest shop is over priced IMO so if you do bring your own food call in at a supermarket on the way, Huesca Maybe?
David Coley - on 01 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: What is the grade mix of the better routes? All 7's or enough good 6's for a week?
Thanks
PeakDJ on 01 May 2010
In reply to David Coley:

Hi David. There are a fair few good 6s that we did, but probably not enough to keep you going for a whole week. As far as I recall there were at least 7 or 8 really good routes around 6b/c (excluding the short, polished ones on the the left hand side of Camino). There is LOADS of stuff around 7a/7a+ though.
Ramon Marin - on 03 May 2010
In reply to David Coley:

I think you might just do a week doing 6's. there's loads new 6's in Pince Sans Rire, and including El Camino, la Nuit sector and the odd scattered route here and there will get you through a week. Bear in mind, if you climbing 6c/+ in UKm expect doing 7a's there in no time. And then you are in heaven...
Tim Broughtonshaw on 01 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:


http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?pf_id=29607&idvariedad=114994&o

Spotted the new guide available now. Cannot find it on any other sites at present.

Cheers
Tim
ali k on 02 Jun 2010
In reply to Tim Broughtonshaw:

Indeed it is! I had a quick skim through it this morning in Goma II in Cornudella. Looks like a very nice guide, with photo topos of all the different sectors and updated grades (i.e. all the obvious soft-touch routes have been downgraded - unfortunately!!).

If it's available in this shop then it's sure to be available at the campsites and refuge in Rodellar.
I just returned from my first trip to Rodellar last Monday after five days of intensive climbing. The canyon is simply stunning. The climbing itself it's fun, oversized jugs (many man-made) on overhangs or roofs, though a bit monotone after a while. However, there are lines that are actual nature master pieces and alone make the whole trip worthwhile. Grades are extremely soft. Even on the new guide (2010) I found that all the routes I climbed could easily be downgraded by half or a full grade. For the super long routes is harder to say. A "ladder" of 40 meters would destroy everyone's arms, but a gymnast would probably have the same chances (or more?) of an experienced climber in my opinion. On-sights are very subjective, all holds being extensively marked. I did not particularly like seeing so many routes already dressed. However, thieves and vandals are very active in the area (although the locals deny) so in a way it's good so you don't have to leave your gear on your projects. I agree with the article about the food; it's not good, but it's not so important either after all. In conclusion, Rodellar it's a proper outdoor gym (marked holds, in-situ draws, friendly bolting, etc.), a theme park for climbers, probably the best of its kind. I enjoyed it very much and I think I'll definitely pay another visit one day.
Tim Broughtonshaw on 03 Jun 2010
In reply to ali k:
> (In reply to Tim Broughtonshaw)
>
> Indeed it is! I had a quick skim through it this morning in Goma II in Cornudella. Looks like a very nice guide, with photo topos of all the different sectors and updated grades (i.e. all the obvious soft-touch routes have been downgraded - unfortunately!!).
>
> If it's available in this shop then it's sure to be available at the campsites and refuge in Rodellar.

Well i've ordered it so i can peruse it for some psyche prior to a trip. Aye did hear from Steve Crowe that there had been a few famous route downgrades... :(. At least i havent been there and had a route ive done downgraded. :)

Cheers
Tim
catt on 03 Jun 2010
In reply to Tim Broughtonshaw:

Nice one Tim, you can use it to sort out the crag database!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Tim Broughtonshaw on 03 Jun 2010
In reply to catt: true mate :)

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