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NEW ARTICLE: ADAM ONDRA - The Exclusive Interview

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 UKC Articles 07 May 2010
[Adam climbs Northern Lights at Kilnsey, the infamous 'Ben Moon Project' first climbed by Steve McClure, 3 kb]Adam Ondra talks openly about his recent trip to the UK, how British grades compare with the rest of the world and what he got for Christmas... A DRILL...

In this in depth interview, Ondra reveals his plans to take world climbing to the next level, he gives us the details of his own training and motivation and he shares some tips for success.

We also ask him about Timothy Taylor's Landlord and how it matches up to those Czech beers...

“There is some unfinished business, so I should be back next spring. Overshadow is waiting...”

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2747

 Owen W-G 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks for the interview Adam.

If only it had been published last week, think of all the stupid comments and speculation that could've been avoided!

Come back next year.
 Cellinski 07 May 2010
Great interview, many thanks!

A small detail about Rätikon being in Austria. The border between Austria and Switzerland runs on the crest of Kirchlispitzen and Drusenfluh, the peaks where the climbing is on.

Since the south faces (where the routes are in) thus lie in Switzerland, and on top of that the usual access is from the Swiss side, it's more correct to say that Rätikon is in Switzerland. Sorry it's too good a climbing area to give it away to the Austrians

And what the heck, I always put my left shoe on first - maybe that's the reason why I have some problems with the 9th French grade

 ali k 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice interview. You managed to ask all the right questions - grades, beer, skin care and women! Exactly the stuff everyone's interested in...at least me anyway.

Good effort getting the videos Rich...I don't think you'll be getting any offers of work from BigUp Productions though...
 Morgan Woods 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

seems to encapsulate everything that is great about climbing.
In reply to Morgan Woods: Good interview, nice on Jack
 Michael Gordon 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Excellent interview.
 franksnb 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Great interview, great kid, I hope beer and women don't ruin his climbing!
In reply to UKC Articles: Top notch interview - plenty of depth and really comprehensive. Just about the right length for me too...

As ever, these articles keep getting better. Nice one.
 Rich Kirby 07 May 2010
In reply to ali k:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>

> Good effort getting the videos Rich...I don't think you'll be getting any offers of work from BigUp Productions though...

I'll say!! They're totally sh*t!! They weren't really meant for world wide consumption .... I was just tinkering with my phone!!

 Michael Ryan 07 May 2010
In reply to Rich Kirby:

Citizen journalism Rich. I liked the EV one... good to see him despatch..... and what a fall.

Ta.
 tommyzero 07 May 2010
In reply to Rich Kirby

> Citizen journalism Rich. The EV one..... what a fall.

I wanted to ask about that fall. What was going on there?

 alicia 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice interview! thanks.
 chris_j_s 07 May 2010
In reply to tommyzero:
> In reply to Rich Kirby
>
> [...]
>
> I wanted to ask about that fall. What was going on there?

Terrible belaying would be my guess!
 Tez29 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good lad, lots of respect to anyone who goes around repeating all the world's hardest routes. Especially loved the last question and answer!
 MJ 07 May 2010
In reply to chris_j_s:

Terrible belaying would be my guess!

Or very good dynamic belaying!!!



 JLS 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

>"The Exclusive Interview"

Good work!
 UKB Shark 07 May 2010
In reply to JLS:

Great interview. Far and away the best I've read about him.

Good news that he wants to come back (I think).
 James Oswald 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great interview.
Well done UKC.
James
 catt 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Enjoyed this.

Yea, some fall! I love the last second, too late shout of 'Adam, it's okay to grab the chain' ...... 'aahhhhh.....'
 sg 07 May 2010
In reply to catt:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Enjoyed this.
>
> Yea, some fall! I love the last second, too late shout of 'Adam, it's okay to grab the chain' ...... 'aahhhhh.....'

If he gets helpful, friendly locals belaying him like that at Malham maybe he'll just forget about the Overshadow rotpunkt!

 220bpm 07 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

What a thoroughly grounded young man (pun intended!).

Loved this quote:

"have recently tried to repeat most of the important hard routes in climbing history in order to know what the new levels and steps forward might look like"

Wise head on young shoulders.
Serpico 07 May 2010
In reply to sg:
> (In reply to catt)
> [...]
>
> If he gets helpful, friendly locals belaying him like that at Malham maybe he'll just forget about the Overshadow rotpunkt!

That wasn't a local belaying, it was his mate.

Serpico 07 May 2010
In reply to catt:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Enjoyed this.
>
> Yea, some fall! I love the last second, too late shout of 'Adam, it's okay to grab the chain' ...... 'aahhhhh.....'

Adam was probably confused by the absence of any chain to grab. EV has a confusing finish; there's an old ring bolt (the original belay) which you clip from the first undercut that he has in the video, the (new)belay is about 3feet above this ring bolt, but the last move is to clip this bolt.
The amount of time he hung around on those final undercuts is way longer than it takes to clip the ring bolt, I'd give him the onsight.

 Scarab 08 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Very wise young man, superb interview
 MJ 08 May 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"I liked the EV one... good to see him despatch..... and what a fall".

Ondra was heard to say: -

"the belayer pays out loads of slack so that the threat of a fall will help me succeed on the crux"

Followed shortly by: -

"There's belaying and then there's f**king belaying - Allright!!!!"


 Quarryboy 08 May 2010
In reply to MJ:

> "There's belaying and then there's f**king belaying - Allright!!!!"

thats one great Jonny Dawes quote
Wrongfoot 09 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

My admiration for this man grows the more I read about him and especially when I get to read his own words.

I enjoyed the piece and thought the questions were pretty well-chosen and the answers well-made.

Go Adam!
murdster 09 May 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Where are the 'stunning' photos?

Stunning routes. Stunning climber. Average photos.

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