UKC

We're in Stanage for the BH Weekend, staying at North Lees campsite - (thanks to Big Steve for the rec!) Been climbing for a good 12 months now though mostly on in-door walls and almost pushing at 6's - (hough this is at the Reach in Woolwich and find some of their routes not properly graded.)

This will be my first time Trad'ing so I would be really grateful for any recommendations/must do's...

A pub rec wouldn't go amiss either!!!

Many thanks, Crack.

In reply to crack:

My only advice would be take care if it is your 1st trad outing so you don't join the accident stats!


Chris

Oh - and enjoy!

In reply to crack:

My advice is, firstly start easy. You can do 6a indoors, but doesn't mean you can climb e3 outside! :p

Secondly enjoy yourself.

In reply to crack: A couple of easy must do's that I really enjoyed are Flying Buttress & Heaven Crack. They should test the water before you tackle anything harder.
Enjoy and keep safe,
Jon

In reply to crack: Thanks Chaps - all noted re 'taking it easy' - no worries there!!! My mate Si did trad a good few years back so is ring rusty but rest assured we'd rather not complete something than push too hard and end up as a statistic!

Thanks for those 2 Jshields - will report back.

Have a great bank holiday everyone.

In reply to crack:
Walk up to the crag, find a v diff that's free and see how it goes
There are 100s of must-do routes on Stanage, so it's best just to see what takes your fancy when you get there. And get used to the rock and style of climbing before you push yourself

In reply to jshields: These look great - partic like the comments under Heaven Crack...

In reply to crack:

first time ever on trad at stanage would probs not reccomend flying buttres as it weaves about abit, your best bet would probably be some straight up stuff with good gear for your first few routes. (but get on it when you know what you are doing later in the weekend)

Heaven crack should be a definite though,

also

holly bush crack
the black hawk traverses

and many many more as people say, just go up and see what is free and gets stars in the guide.

then if by the end of the weekend you are alot more confident placing gear and are managing the fact most of the climbing involves none juggy holds, definitley get on

christmas crack
manchester buttress (watch out for ropework!)

In reply to crack:
Heaven Crack is indeed a great route - just don't abseil off that boulder at the top !

In reply to crack: Great climb, loads of gear. There are so many too choose from, but these 2 stand out from the many I have done at Stanage.
It has already been said but if you do what you like the look of you won't go far wrong.
Let me know how you get on.
Jon

In reply to crack: erm the suggestions posted so far seem to have covered some good starters grotto slab is the only really obvious one it think that's been missed is v.easy but a good chance to place kit shouldn't be wasted. now i come in to the area of some expertise, the scotsmans pack on the road down from the crag towards hathersage does a fine selection of beers and some good grub. for one more budget accommodating little johns has never served us lot a bad meal and very reasonable price wise.

In reply to Chris the Tall: Good point, that has had it's own thread a while back!
Jon

In reply to smithaldo:

+1 for holly bush crack. It was my first lead on grit. Nice and easy without being too easy. With the added incentive not to fall off or you will end up in the bush.

In reply to crack:

I'd avoid any two and three star classics: first, they get big queues; second, they can be very much more polished... something that gets a bit of getting used to; third, when you start off things often go a bit slow (gear and ropework wise) and its polite and less hassle to do this on quieter climbs; fourth, routes like Heaven Crack are as good as grit VD gets... an experince best savorued without worrying about starting off stuff...try them two or three trips in.

In reply to cpro:



I've eaten in both of those, and also at the Millstone Inn.

The Millstone Inn beats them both easily on the food front IMHO.

In reply to crack:

Have a go at Hollybush Crack. Fairly long by grit standards, good gear placements (and easy to spot), V. Diff grade and a nice climb with good rests for the gear placements. Take your time placing the gear and make sure it's well seated. Don't be too proud to ask for some help setting up your belay at the top.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Yeah, don't solo Flying Buttress direct.

In reply to crack:

There's some really nice easy slabby stuff in the Away From It All area which has the added advantage of being reasonably quiet so you don't have the world and his wife gawking at you as you faff.

And Millstone definitely seconded here both in terms of location and food.

In reply to Ava Adore:

to the OP: going to stange on a bank holiday weekend with a ticklist of easy classics is a recipe for frustration!

There is so much to go at, just see what is free at your grade and if it looks protected and you fancy the look of it go for it.

In reply to crack:

Helfenstein's Struggle, Stanage Plantation.

A beautiful route. Very friendly.

In reply to Offwidth: good points steve, thinking about it quieter areas might be better, especially on a bank holiday weekend. A bit further away but there is some good stuff at high neb.

p.s. congrats on the guide, mine popped through the mailbox as a present from my wife. Nice to see the dedication to trig too.

In reply to Offwidth:

I wouldn't recommend Heaven Crack for a first day's trad leading, either.
It takes a certain degree of experience to arrange secure gear behind the flake, and the last move is a bit of a stopper at the grade.

In reply to Ava Adore:

Thats a good call, however there are loads of good VD climbs at the Popular End that are less busy:

Left Popular

3 Palermo VD
Fairly straightforward climbing up the wide crack.
4 Pal Joey VD*
Good climbing up the flaky crack just right.
10 Newhaven HD*
Protected corner climbing on good holds.
52 Corner Crack D
The ‘easy’ corner really only asserts itself at the end.
53 Recess Rib VD
The grade is assuming you climb the rib with use of the crack on its left.
74 Left Verandah Crack VD
The left crack has tricky moves pulling across at the dog-leg.
75 Right Verandah Crack D
The narrowing cleft gives a good beginner’s bridging climb.
86 Turf Crack VD*
Interesting climbing and well protected.
91 Narrowing Chimney D
The softest touch on Stanage sensibly downgraded? Fairly technical for the grade with useful hidden holds but secure and safe.

Mississippi

25 Fairy Castle Crack HD
Some fairly tough moves, especially getting onto the obvious block.
27 Fairy Chimney D
A little more straightforward: some nice moves.
70 Bee D*
Good crack climbing between ledges. Finishes up the easier groove above.
The twin buttresses to the right contain mainly harder routes but a few cracks and gullies give easier lines:

Christmas Crack

4 Boot Crack VD*
Good, strenuous, traditional jamming.
36 Pedestal Chimney D*
A good climb in two halves which seems to avoid chimneying moves!
64 Straight Chimney VD
Not much chimneying and fairly straightforward at the grade.

Black Hawk

39 Physiology VD*
Some fairly stiff moves but good protection and arm wedges reduce the danger. Can be busy with groups...if so avoid.
41 Anatomy VD
Only slightly easier than 751 but no arm wedges; still well protected. Can be busy with groups...if so avoid.
57 Grotto Slab D*
After a tricky start, protectable slab climbing leads to tricky moves off ledges. M 3a* if you start up the right arete of the slab.
62 Capstone Chimney D*
A lovely little route that deserves its star, with good holds protection and exposure.
84 Mantelpiece Crack M
Hard moves off the ground, OK above.
109 Fire Curtain HD
Good sustained bridging at the grade.

In reply to cpro: Thank you very much for sharing your 'expertise' with me - will def be there!!!

In reply to Offwidth: Very good point and somthing I'd not thought of - thanks for mentioning.

In reply to Arthur.B: I can't imagine stuffing gear behind the flake should be any more of a problem, than gearing any other route mentioned. It could swallow more cams and hexes than you could carry up!

In reply to Blue Straggler: fair enough have only been there once think i caught them on an off night by the sounds as i wasn't overly impressed my self, might have to give it a 2nd chance

In reply to jshields: Will do Jon - cheers.

In reply to crack: If you do Flying Buttress then you could base jump from the top to save the abseil.

In reply to crack:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/older.html?category=3&date=

In reply to cpro:

I've only eaten there once, maybe _I_ caught them on a rare "on-form" night!

I had too many bad experiences (consecutively!) with the service at the Little John a few years ago and have voted with my feet. Maybe it's improved.

I'm not suggesting "go here instead of there", just suggesting alternative venues, really.

In reply to crack: do have a look at crack and corner,great route,if you can manage the very polished start,you can do the rest,every technique can be used,jamming,bridging,laybacking ,even a overhang(on huge jugs),to finish,really good runners all the way ENJOY

In reply to crack:
Now for something really useful: Longland's for cakes and coffees (above Outside in Hathersage). Scotsman's Pack for beer.

In reply to crack: great weekend and lead my first trad climbs so very happy - rained Saturday but was able to recce the area. We climbed the following: Anatomy, Two Tier Climb and I lead Cool Groove, Black Hawk Hell Crack and Flying Buttress!

Just heading back now but managed to bag Black Hawk Traverse and ObliqueCrack thismorning.

Awesome weekend and def got the bug and want MORE!!!

Thanks for all the shouts and hope you all had a good weekend!!

In reply to crack: Nice mate! Looking to do some trad for the first time in a few weeks, how did you find it? This thread will be very handy for me as well...

In reply to crack: I really enjoyed it and some of the earlier comments re taking your time certainly hold true. My mate did a good couple of climbs initially putting in too much protection so at least I could see it in situ - forgot to mention that during Saturday we had our wires with us so practises placing etc.

I've had such a great weekend and still buzzing!!

Good luck and enjoy.

In reply to crack: Glad you enjoyed Flying Buttress and were not swayed to do some obscure route in the back and beyond instead!
jon

In reply to jshields: Thanks for the tip Jon - really had a great weekend, partiuarly on the Sunday. Now wanting to move to Derbyshire!!

In reply to crack:

Also tried the Scotsman pub though preferred the atmosphere in the Little John. Didn't try the food - after two pints we were literally falling asleep at the bar!!

Great pint of Rider in LJ which was apt given the news re Dennis Hopper!