/ THE LOWDOWN: Climbing and where it's going, by DW
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54430
Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users
What do you mean when you say "consensus is impossible"? Just curious!
I simply mean, we'll never arrive at a situation where we all agree on how difficult any given problem or route is. Grades are, have always been and will always be subjective.
Well... come to think of it, we should all be able to agree on that ;)
The more interesting problem, I find, is that at the the top end of the spectrum, repeats are few by definition. As you say, a grade is a span, not a dot. So when a super athlete claims a 9c, his peers may agree that it's super hard and harder than previous 9b+s, but how much harder? Agreeing on grades within the existing levels is hard, but agreeing on a new letter grade must be hopeless!
My guess is that when in the future, hundreds of climbers climb 10b+, they will find that increments in difficulty become smaller the higher the grade.
8B+ than we can take it from there - right? So any problem that feels significantly harder than these would be a contender for the
8C grade. And these are(?): The Island, Jade, Terremer... ? But for an even higher grade to be established there should be some number of (confirmed) problems in the former grade, don?t you think? And to suggest, or at least with some credibility, a "new" grade you should have climbed a few of the confirmed problems to be able to make a good comparison. Off course it might be accurate to describe Hydrangea, The Game, Lucid dreaming or The Story of two worlds with the 8C+ grade, but I think that we don?t really now just yet.
And as you say, the harder it gets, the fewer repeats.
I think it's important to treat grade suggestions as exactly that. Suggestions. Especially as, which everyone who's made FA:s know, grading a new climb is extremely difficult. Until there have been enough repeats, the grade hasn't settled. So, if someone repeats a problem with the suggested grade 8C, and thinks it's more like 8B+ or 8C+, this is also just a suggestion.
Eventually, after enough repeats, it will be possible to give the problem a more permanent grade. An average grade really, because it still doesn't mean it's the same difficulty for all.
To me, "8B" means "somewhere in the 8A+ to 8B+ spectrum for most people".
What do you think?
Skin type? Really? I'd like to hear someone explain that one...
I'm excited to see these v18/v19s.
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