UKC

NEWS: New 1000m F8b in Arco, Italy

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 UKC News 31 May 2010
[Monte Brento - 1400 m roadside crag - Placche Zebrate lower section, 2 kb]

Jorg Verhoeven and David Lama have climbed a new 1000m free route close to Arco, Italy.

The route Brento Centro, tackles the huge limestone wall of Monte Brento in the Sarca Valley close to Arco, Italy.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55079

 Henry L Buckle 31 May 2010
In reply to UKC News:

How does this compare to his unfinished sport route on Cerro Torre?
 Scarab 01 Jun 2010
30 pitches --- 70 bolts.. brrrr
Removed User 01 Jun 2010
In reply to Scarab: At 2 bolts per belay I make that 10 bolts spread over 1000m of climbing!
 conorcussell 01 Jun 2010
In reply to Removed User: They added 70 bolts, there were bolts in place from previous attempts.
Removed User 01 Jun 2010
In reply to hoya321:

Didn't he just do that on the Compressor Route too...!
 Henry L Buckle 01 Jun 2010
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Scarab) At 2 bolts per belay I make that 10 bolts spread over 1000m of climbing!

He probably didn't have many bolts left after his butchering of the compressor route.

Frankly I find celebration of this new route embarrassing after the mess that was left on Cerro Torre.
 AlistairB 01 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News: I have no comment on the Cerro Torre issue because I have no experience there. However, having been to Arco and stood near the bottom of Monte Brento I found myself thinking that surely there must be a free line up there somewhere. Amazing effort on what is a truely stunning wall. Is there a photo with the approximate line drawn on anywhere? Would love to see what route through the roof sections it takes.
 Henry L Buckle 01 Jun 2010
In reply to AlistairB:
> (In reply to UKC News) I have no comment on the Cerro Torre issue because I have no experience there.

Here, have a read...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=410733
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2337456;search_st...



 antoniusblock 13 Jun 2010
The guy shouldnt get any publicity until he learns local ethics. Until then, boycott his sponsors; Mammutt and Red Bull. The guy needs to learn somehow.
In reply to Henry Loveless: Whilst I agree that what he did on Cerro Torre is deplorable, you can hardly say that he's butchered it. That 'butchering' was performed by the first 'ascensionist', Maestri.

He should not be getting any publicity on here as I don't think bolting a convoluted route in the pursuit of high grades is that impressive and has no relevance to modern climbing.

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