UKC

Anyone done this route lately, any info would be appreciated. Whats the grade? I've got HVS but my guidebook is old and I heard it had some rockfall in the mid 90's.

In reply to MarkC: The crucial chockstone fell out. It's now rated E3 5c direct but there is an E1 variation that traverses left onto the front of the flake - you really need the description from the latest FRCC guide.

In reply to MarkC:

http://www.hotpud.com/ukroutes/RouteStats?i=1396

with photo of my mate on the crux, and comment by another geezer.

Personally: softish E1, all in that traverse on the front of the flake, boldish, with one excellent nut in the middle. Not really one to fall off, but it is all in balance, just. The rest is very meandering and like Mr Reid says, you do need a guide, it is far from an obvious line.

In reply to MarkC: If you climb E3 do the original flake pitch, its awsome. Lay back all the way with nay gear.