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THE LOWDOWN: Weekend warriors extraordinaires

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[The LowDown: Weekend warriors extraordinaires, 2 kb]If I were aspiring to make a 9something FA anywhere in Europe, and one day saw a car with Czech licence plates rolling into my town, my heart would sink... just a little. Especially of that project of mine was an ancient one, which hadn't seen a lot of traffic for the last decade or so. Adam Ondra...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54482

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users
Anonymous 08 Apr 2010
Why "originally 8c"? On scorecards, it's been called soft, but always 8c. Has anything changed? Either way, impressive.
Hey, to be honest I don't know, but both Maja and Vicho Korleone call it 8b+. I'll look into it.
Little John 08 Apr 2010
Cornalba crag of the future??? old old old, crowded as hell and chipped holds all over the place. I really would like to know why Ondra says so. yet really cool he was able to send Jedi! 9a+ on a dead vertical crimpy route must by a whole new level of finger strength and tecnique. props!
Little John 08 Apr 2010
I meant goldrake of course...
About Los Humildes pa casa, apparently you now climb an easier first part because of some recently found rock drawings.
Anonymous 08 Apr 2010
"9a+ on a dead vertical crimpy route must be a whole new level of finger strength and tecnique."

You should try some of Steve Mcclure's unrepeated routes (which are pretty much all way harder than the grades he gave them!)

Mutation is just about vertical for all the hard climbing... and it is DESPERATE - i.e at least 9a+...
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