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THE LOWDOWN: What does it mean to "sit down"?

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A very serious and important ethical issue has been brought to my attention. It concerns sit-down/assis starts. What constitutes a sit-down/assis start i.e. what does it mean to sit down, or to be even more precise: If you want to make a proper/halal/kosher sit-down/assis, which body part should be...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54764

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users
Anonymous 28 Sep 2009
HI Bjorn, I just had this debate last week, no joke.. It got heated.. For me sit start means sitting and your bottom is the last part to leave the ground.

In most cases for FAs I try to do it with an ultra thin pad or no pad.

(to Gian: I am 168 and have no problem reaching the stating holds on dreamtime sit. My wife at 155 can as well and even place the heel. We have do pull on and then place the heel. For me in this case if you do not sit, it is not done, as pulling on and placing the heel is a hard move. It is just like dropping off a mantel that may not be the crux. )

This is for me the definition... OF sit start.

Having said that, It is silly for example to make a climb a sit if a crouch start is more logical, example fist hold is at 140cm and is a bucket with good feet. Now we are just trying to limit who can grab the first holds.

But this is also relative to stand starts with people stacking pads or stones, if the FA was done without them then the next ones should respect that. I can think of several problems where it is not the height of the hand holds, but the height of the foot holds that make a difference, and adding pads/stones can make a difference.

IN the end though this only matters for those who are "reporting" their results, for most mof us who are just there for fun who cares, just don't say Oh that was easy, downgrade the problem, when you could not even pull on the first move...
AndyPeat 28 Sep 2009
"A very serious and important ethical issue."
He he he.
Are you joking?
I remember when toprope practice and chalk were dubious techniques.
All thats important is respect for the rock and the enviroment around it.
Unless your a result junkie then please, police yourselves.
Björn 28 Sep 2009
Am I joking? Well, yeah obviously Of course it's of almost zero importance.
The video Chris is talking about can be found in the #18 issue, September 2008.
chris 28 Sep 2009
OK Andy, the subject is not so very important, but important enough to talk about,for example:
I was always wondering about the 'sit down' action Alex Puccio did while climbing the FFA of Marble-Sit V12 last year.

http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/?initVidURL=265

well, at first I don't know the boulder, so who am I talking about it,but anyway.
Maybe she sits on an invisible air-pad of about 60 cm...or she is very small and can't reach the starting-holds.
This is just an example to discuss about, doesn't matter in most peoples climbing-life...but for the pro's here..I think you have to be honest....which does not mean any offense against Alex....climbing so well.
chris
gian 28 Sep 2009
put as this it is a bit "biased".

it is obvious crouching starts have a logic for relatively short people not able to touch ANY kind of starting hold sitting on the pad...

classic example: dai koyamada on dreamtime...


uh, the world really needed such an high profiled ethical issue. thank you bjorn

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