UKC

Steve McClure and Lucy Creamer have repeated the infamous route through the Great Arch on the island of Pabbay, Scotland.

The route, called To Be Continued, was first climbed by Dave Cutherbertson and Lynn Hill and was captured on the BBC TV series The Edge.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55185

In reply to UKC News:

Could we have less of these 'Newsflashes' please? I'd rather just find out about an ascent once you have all the details.

In reply to UKC News: well i disagree, thanks for the news, and an awesome well done to lucy and steve, what an amazing line!! wonderful stuff

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I disagree - I like these news flashes.

Look forward to hearing full details.

In reply to UKC News: So did they do it with the aid point or not?

In reply to Juggler13: wait and see

In reply to UKC News:

I have The Edge on VHS, absolutely amazingly looking line. I believe Cubby makes some comment about it being 'really quite hard Lynne' as he is trying to pull around the roof. Would this be the first repeat? Surely not.

In reply to catt: I 'think' this is the first repeat, but I am currently researching.

Anyone know if the clip is on Youtube anywhere? I can't find it.

Jack

In reply to UKC News: Awesome news, had almost forgottenm about this project! Looking forward to the details in due course

In reply to catt:

Is that as in 'The Edge: 100 Years of Scottish Mountaineering'?

I had that VHS, but the Pabbay stuff was definitely not on there which confused me a bit 'cos that's why I bought it in he first place.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Yeah would be great to see...

In reply to Southern Man:

If it wasn't the Edge maybe it was the Face series?

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I know that I've watched it online before but now I can't find it either. This may be the least helpful response ever.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Doh, sorry yes it's The Face, got confused by Jacks reference to the Edge.

The Face, 2 tape box set with 6 episodes, one of which is Cubby and Lynne on Pabby. The others are pretty good too.

If I had the know how I'd get it onto digi but I don't got the equipment!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

yes, it was the face series....i have it at home.

we were on the island at the same time. when we had to leave at about 3pm, lucy was having some bother on the second pitch. so good to hear they got it finished in the end!!

In reply to Lemony:

it was definately online here.... http://www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/greatclimb/index.shtml

i can't find it now, so it may have been removed, but if someone wants to hunt around it may just be hiding from me!!

In reply to dave o: http://www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/player/?item=44532460

Cheers!

In reply to UKC News: Can someone explain why this is "an infamous route"? Chipped, bolted, stuck on holds?

In reply to Missile: Nails, and on cheese

In reply to Missile: ...and of course stunning

In reply to UKC News:
Glad they got it in the end! Was pretty inspiring to see the strong folk cranking on the island with us. One of the more impressive sights was Lucy from falling off More Steam McPhail! Pretty out there place for a whipper! I'd have shat myself! She kept her composure however, and finished off the pitch. Awesome stuff.

Trist

In reply to thommi:

Is rock quality really that bad? That would be a shame and maybe explain why it hasn't seen more attention (MacLeod are you listening? j/k!)

Don't seem to remember many complaints when Lynn/Cubby tried it on telly.

In reply to 220bpm:

Great to hear that Steve and Lucy are/were out there. Not a big departure in style for Lucy, but not Steve's normal style... I wonder what else they attempted? Some of the steep stuff ought to suit a fit sport climber with his head in the right place. I wonder if they got to Mingulay too....? Looking forward to hearing and seeing more!

Note to the Sheffield crew - LOOK! There really are climbs out there higher than 8m and more than 50 yards from the car park. It's not a myth...

Ben

In reply to Ben Darvill:

Maybe not regularly, but Steve did a first ascent with Miles Gibson in Greenland in 2003 (the trip was just after he redpointed Northern Lights). The route they did had no fixed gear, with the crux pitch across a roof "feeling like F8b in the wet". He does have previous form for trad shuffling

In reply to UKC News:

Such an awesome looking line glad its been repeated (long over due). Makes me want to dig up my VHS of The Edge and watch it all over again

In reply to Ben Darvill:

Lucy Creamer, of Sheffield, seems to be aware of that.

In reply to Missile: Because no-one has been able to do it free yet? Cubby and Lynn Hill were not entirely without hard trad experince. Think DM maybe went to have a look a few years ago but failed too (from weather / conditions?). So - amazing line, no ascents.

Would be quite surprised if the rock quality was all that bad on the route as an aside, it's good on the other routes on that wall and on the islands as a whole...

In reply to Ben Darvill:
>
.......just let the "cat out of the bag" why don't you!! Ssshhhhhhh!!!

As TB says you'd be surprised at Steve's trad credentials.

Pretty sure this is the 2nd ascent.........a real prize if they did eliminate the aid point.

In reply to Rich Kirby:

I went to a talk Steve gave a few years back and he'd done lots of amazing trad. I didn't mean to suggest that he hadn't. I just think that uber sport climbing fitness would translate well onto the steep and long routes on Mingulay and Pabbay. There are lots of runners (usually) which aren't too tricky to place.

Ben

In reply to hexcentric:
I'm sure as a whole the rock is sound, but one of the pitches has a flake that creaks at you when you pull on it, but this holds the gear to protect a hard bit, according to Steve.

Can't wait to hear his chat post ascent. It is an inspiring route!

In reply to UKC News: Whilst steve isn't recognised for his trad climbing he has the c.v ! rhapaody and elder arete to name 2 of the probably numerous trad achievements.

well done folks