UKC

Bit of a noob question here

Is there any reason why one clips a quick-draw into a nut and not just a single carabiner? Much lighter than carrying a full quick-draw?

Most cams and hexes just have a single carabiner that you clip into, so why is a nut any different?

In reply to euanryan: nuts are prone to popping out of the placement due to rope drag. quickdraws extend the contact between the nut and the rope alowing for more freedom and reducing rope drag.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: damn it, i should really check profiles before replying...

all im gunna say is, troll.

In reply to euanryan:

To reduce rope-drag and ensure that gear doesnt lift out of placements.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: wowa? I'm fairly new to trad mate and i'm asking a genuine question!

Your reply was pretty helpful acctually, don't jump to conclusions!

In reply to euanryan: ahh ok, i just saw that you had been climbing for 4-10 years and just jumped to conclusions like you said, im sorry.

but good on you mate, i LOVE trad climbing keep it up.

In reply to euanryan:

No worries, most of that time was spent cooped up in the Glasgow Climbing Centre!

Getting onto the real stuff now!

In reply to euanryan:

If you look at some of the old time pictures you will see we often used just a nut with krab on it, using slings to extend them when there was a danger of them pulling out. Now people use QDs on nearly everything. I use the old method with short slings to extend when needed.

If you ARE new to trad, get the longer QDs with a good bit of play on one end ans the stiff ones are worse at lifting out nuts than none at all. ~You can mix them up with your wall ones if you want, so long as you make sure you do not back clip, a lot more serious on trad as the drag can also lift out runners.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

Just updated my profile a bit

In reply to sutty: Ahh, interesting! I think i have a few of those types of quickdraws, but mainly just normal ones.




Cheers for the replies. I was just sitting wondering what the advantages were

In reply to euanryan: nice one mate

when i first started to get into climbing i used to wounder how nuts and other gear worked and how people secured the rope to them lol but after reading up on things and getting advice off people, i was well away and still loving it.

In reply to euanryan: The other reason is nuts (the wires or any metal part) can cause small bures on the metal. Thou the would have no implication on the function of QD or crab...if the come into conact with soft metals (rope or sling) they quickly be damaged!!! This is the same reason for cliping clip bolts/wires with the same end each time and rope in the other every time!

Enjoy the trad

x

In reply to NHARRIS: Hmm, never thoguht of bures in the metal! That makes sense!

In reply to euanryan: It's often a good idea to extend cams with a quickdraw too. The attached sling is often too short to prevent rope drag, and more importantly fails to allow sufficient movement, which can result in the cam walking into the crack.