UKC

It is NOT a dry tooling venue. Rock climbing occurs here fairly frequently,
so if whomever thought it was a bright idea to grind the $#!7 out of the holds on several problems would kindly cease their activities, that would be great.

I was pissed about losing the rest jug on the highball in the middle at the time, but it turns out it's still fine so I'm not going to be a jerkoff to you or try to hunt you down or anything, just, uh, don't mess up the holds down there any more.

Thanks,
MRJ.

In reply to MRJ:

With respect (and I'll gladly continue this chat down the wall), there were scratches on that mini-crag long before you bouldered on it. It's a very grey area as to who gets right of way on what is essentially a non-crag with no recorded history. My guess is no-one.


Really? You're the only person I know that's pulled on it. I had a look five years ago when I moved to the village and made vague noises about coming back with shoes. And never did; it's that good.

In reply to MRJ: Chalk Vs Axe: who will win this fight?

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Make that two if you're talking about Torr Garbh (aka The Boulder) because I've climbed on it once about 20 years ago...

In reply to petestack:

I'm pretty sure (based on a chat with Magnus at the wall) that he's talking about a micro-outcrop on the north side of the river facing B-Station Buttress. I wouldnt support dry-tooling on Torr Garbh; it's an established crag albeit a rarely-visited one.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Right, just confused by use of the definite article with 'boulder'!

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

This is a local thread for local people...

We only need further contributions from Isi_O, Enipeus and Sophie Leatherbarrow.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Well it was certainly pretty dirty in places, but the current problems are pretty good. I've climbed up there with a couple people. It's a nice place to run to when I've just got the afternoon off work.

I'm sure whoever had a wee play on it wouldn't want to ruin someone else's
fun and that they will stop when/if they find out that people are climbing there.

In reply to MRJ:


That depends whether they feel as much fondness and attachment to it as you do... there is no clearly defined right-of-way here.

In reply to MRJ:

Do you not see the irony?

In reply to Calum Nicoll:

One kind of fun is more sustainable than the other one is. Once the rock is changed it's changed for ever, where as drytooling can be done in lots of places, but rock climbing or bouldering on rock can't be.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Timmd: That's one of the stupidestposts I've ever read on an internet forum.

drytooling can be done in lots of places, but rock climbing or bouldering on rock can't be.

I was going to comment but it's so stupid I'll leave it there.

In reply to aln:

Heh. He didn't write it well but you can kind of get what he's aiming for. Although there is a lot of choss in that gorge that could merrily be DT'd on but not free climbed - well, maybe by you...
To above - do I get the irony? I'm pretty sure it's fairly well understood that DTing is not really acceptable at rock climbing venues. This isn't a 5 star crag, or ever really a starred crag, but it certainly isn't chossy enough to be sentenced to the DT treatment.

So here's the situation - One or more people dry tooled there a fairly long time ago. Recently a very small group of people cleaned a crag that was pretty mank, and now climb there. Even more recently someone, or another small group of people started dry tooling there and damaged several holds. So the real question is who get's right of way - the dry toolers or the free climbers? I would say that in just about every single situation the free climbers get right of way, just as trad gets the right of way over sport.

Of course all of that is completely contrived and arbitrary, stupid and unimportant rules made by a by an unimportant group trying to bring everyday rules and regulation to our very unimportant "sport", but I do quite like clambering about on this certain rock so am just asking nicely if the person braking it would stop.

In reply to aln: Dry tooling can be done on old viaducts, some indoor climbing walls, any brick wall you come across that's not over looked by CCTV cameras or authority, lots of places.

There's only a certain amount of rock for people to climb on, and as said already, once it's chipped or holds are damaged, that's happened for good.

Tim

In reply to MRJ:
Where is this boulder? I'm intrigued enough to go and have a look now... I won't be taking axes, before anyone asks - not really my cup of tea
Isi

>In reply to Timmd:


What's to stop you bouldering on it as well?

In reply to Calum Nicoll:

I'm not sure what you mean?

I'm talking about holds on rock being damaged by dry tooling not being a good thing.

There's nothing to stop anybody bouldering where somebody drytools if the holds aren't damaged though, which seems to be what the OP is concerned about, the damaging of holds that is.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to MRJ:
>Although there is a lot of choss in that gorge that could merrily be DT'd on but not free climbed - well, maybe by you...

Cheeky young whippersnapper!

In reply to aln:

That was practically a compliment! hahaha. I couldn't resist.

Isi, It's across from b-station buttress (the sketchy DWS place) on the left side of the river. There's just 4 lines on it but they're all decent fun. High, though, so bring a pad and some midge-proof spotters.