/ NEW ARTICLE: Stevie Haston: The Way of the Dervish

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UKC Articles - on 16 Jun 2010
[Katie Haston climbing her father's, Comes the Dervish in the Vivian Quarry, Llanberis, 2 kb]In this, his second article for UKClimbing.com, Stevie Haston recounts the first ascent of Comes The Dervish, but more than that, he takes us back, back to another time in climbing, another world even.

"Climbing was so popular that you couldn't get into the pubs of a weekend, or onto the fashionable crags. This meant routes were clean, info was on offer, and there were partners and enjoyable climbing society everywhere. You could be penniless and physically broken, but some kind old dude would buy you a pint and listen to your tales of daring do..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2799

southern sam on 16 Jun 2010
Another fantasic bit of writting, thanks Stevie! And another call for you to write a book!
Andy Cairns on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Great article, Stevie. Please keep them coming! Dervish is one of the (very!) few E3s I've led - it was many years ago, and I can still remember the moves vividly.

Cheers
Andy
johncoxmysteriously - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Very entertaining article as always.

Humour me here; where did Joe B place bolts, then? And whose homemade bolts are those (or were those) on Heading the Shot, I wonder?

jcm
crabduck on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Found this article hugely enjoyable and absorbing, brilliant stuff once again full of powerful memories.

Thanks for sharing.
tradmonkey - on 16 Jun 2010
A fantastic and inspiring article, cannot wait for the next installment.
ronnyadsetts - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

What a thoroughly enjoyable read - keep the articles coming Mr. Haston!

Ronny
Andy Stephenson - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great article; I learned something as well as being entertained. I really liked "the flow";

>you could see it if you looked very closely and thought outside the finger strength box

...I'm sure that this "flow" is the key to climbing well; I've observed the phenomenon and it does work, better than just training muscles or technique. Thanks...
eroica64 - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: There's writing flow here too. It's a terrific read.
mattyork2 - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to eroica64: Thanks for that Steve - heading to Stoney now and hope to get in 'the flow!' Like it.
M. Edwards on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great read, thanks Stevie. Enjoyed many of your routes. Respect.
ark05 - on 16 Jun 2010
very good article. was the route called "come" the dervish?
bouldery bits - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article. Really enjoyed it.
jamiev on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

tremendous piece of writing.
JJL - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely article.

But, Stevie, you don't half look like Voldemort in that photo...

mark mcgowan01 - on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
mucho enjoyed...
Gilles on 16 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Another brilliant bit of writing, look forward to the next one, and Stevie - write that book.
wilkie14c - on 17 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Excellent read.
Putting the pieces together, the picture of Hank Pasquil looks very much to be from the same camera as the shot on page 272 of the Lancs rock guide <the brick> The picture there shows Nigel Bonnet on the very same problem with I presume Hank just out of shot. The picture is credited to Brian Cropper. On page 337 is a group photo of the 'motley crew'. Its in 1977 at Brownstones and looks to be a happy day out for the best climbers in Lancashire at that time. Great stuff!
Phil Kelly - on 17 Jun 2010
In reply to blanchie14c:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)

> Its in 1977 at Brownstones and looks to be a happy day out for the best climbers in Lancashire at that time.

And the odd Yorkshireman.

Phil
George Ormerod - on 17 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Top bit of writing. A UKC article that mentions the dance of the flaming arseholes too; surely this can't be bettered.
ads.ukclimbing.com
wilkie14c - on 17 Jun 2010
In reply to RockArchivist:
Of course!
A pic shortly to appear in my photos of me in the same position as Dave Cronshaw on the complete streaker on page 256. You can see the change in the quarry, the pool wall now looks unclimbable and the pool nearly all gone? global warming? anyway, I digress!
ian Ll-J - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
'Never placed a bolt on slate'?

So who placed the home made bolts on 'Heading the Shot'?
hoseyb - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Joe Brown placed bolts on hamadryad and Razors edge

Nick Walton bolted heading the shot.

Ian - Done My Secret Garden yet?
ian Ll-J - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to hoseyb: Not yet, been busy on Tambourine Man...which I finaly managed to redpoint the other day :-)

Will get back on it though!
standard on 19 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Any chance of getting the last picture ( http://ukc2.com/i/144078.jpg ) in a higher resolution?

Cheers
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2010
In reply to hoseyb:

Yes, thanks, I did manage to work that out in the end. Didn't know HTS had (presumably) been someone else's/an open project first, though. Man, that was a good route.

jcm
royal - on 30 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great read. Jedis, dance of the flaming arseholes....

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