/ NEW ARTICLE: Stevie Haston: The Way of the Dervish
"Climbing was so popular that you couldn't get into the pubs of a weekend, or onto the fashionable crags. This meant routes were clean, info was on offer, and there were partners and enjoyable climbing society everywhere. You could be penniless and physically broken, but some kind old dude would buy you a pint and listen to your tales of daring do..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2799
Very entertaining article as always.
Humour me here; where did Joe B place bolts, then? And whose homemade bolts are those (or were those) on Heading the Shot, I wonder?
Thanks for sharing.
What a thoroughly enjoyable read - keep the articles coming Mr. Haston!
Great article; I learned something as well as being entertained. I really liked "the flow";
>you could see it if you looked very closely and thought outside the finger strength box
...I'm sure that this "flow" is the key to climbing well; I've observed the phenomenon and it does work, better than just training muscles or technique. Thanks...
Great read, thanks Stevie. Enjoyed many of your routes. Respect.
Great article. Really enjoyed it.
tremendous piece of writing.
But, Stevie, you don't half look like Voldemort in that photo...
Putting the pieces together, the picture of Hank Pasquil looks very much to be from the same camera as the shot on page 272 of the Lancs rock guide <the brick> The picture there shows Nigel Bonnet on the very same problem with I presume Hank just out of shot. The picture is credited to Brian Cropper. On page 337 is a group photo of the 'motley crew'. Its in 1977 at Brownstones and looks to be a happy day out for the best climbers in Lancashire at that time. Great stuff!
And the odd Yorkshireman.
Top bit of writing. A UKC article that mentions the dance of the flaming arseholes too; surely this can't be bettered.
A pic shortly to appear in my photos of me in the same position as Dave Cronshaw on the complete streaker on page 256. You can see the change in the quarry, the pool wall now looks unclimbable and the pool nearly all gone? global warming? anyway, I digress!
'Never placed a bolt on slate'?
So who placed the home made bolts on 'Heading the Shot'?
Joe Brown placed bolts on hamadryad and Razors edge
Nick Walton bolted heading the shot.
Ian - Done My Secret Garden yet?
Will get back on it though!
Yes, thanks, I did manage to work that out in the end. Didn't know HTS had (presumably) been someone else's/an open project first, though. Man, that was a good route.
Great read. Jedis, dance of the flaming arseholes....
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