UKC

Having got annoyingly midged thursday late afternoon/evening at Curbar we went to Turning Stone Edge yesterday and despite the full shade and little wind there were no midges anywhere.... just a reminder that these Matlock/Amber crags get these advantages (shade and few if any midges) for the low-wind, sunny days ahead. If you go to Turning Stone remember to pull off any new shoots from the Rhododendrens...generally the crag is in good nick at the moment thanks to the sterling work of Andy L and friends but the jungle grows back fast.

In reply to Offwidth:

Was at burbage yesterday, and although they bothered us early on when we were still in the shade, the little buggers left us alone when the sun came out, so perhaps it just wasn't a bad day for them as IMO Burbage N is one of the worst crags for he dreaded midge

In reply to balmybaldwin:

Agreed but we were seeking some shade in the trees at the north end of Curbar. My point was if you want shade without midges on still days.

In reply to Offwidth: Noticed you had done some good work in pulling off shoots. TSE is remarkably midge-free despite the shade (even by Amber/Matlock standards), a situation I've been happily enjoying since I discovered it a few summers ago. Gone are the summer days when the midge conditions dictated a need to climb on limestone in the Peak.
These midge threads, I like them as much as I hate the annoying things...

In reply to Offwidth:

as per your message no midges in the shade at Turning Stone Edge edge again tonight either, what wicked local crag. Looks like its seen a fair bit of attention recently given the amount of chalk about. Not that I'd been before but it appears to be in very good nick and not the horror stories of a overgrown jungle I'd herd about. Thought the rock was also quite clean the new BMB guide the photos make the place look good but a bit lime green in colour

no problems up on kinder south on Sunday either, not gad a problem with then yet...

In reply to Offwidth: No midges at Ravensnest tor either & great climbing

tony & sarah

In reply to Offwidth:
No midges at Raven's Scar (NY Moors) last night either, even when the sun set and the wind dropped.
However, that doesn't mean it's a reliably midge-free crag, I've had to leave before now without even touching the rock as they were so bad.

In reply to Offwidth:
I cannot belive that you are openly advocating damageing the local enviroment by damaging plant life!

have you no respect for the enviroment we climb in, addmittedly its not as bad as cutting down trees but still, its the thin end of the wedge here i spy!

In reply to EricpAndrew:

I can. Offwidth is a local climber, guidebook writer and champion of forgotten, overgrown, loose and esoteric crags.

It is sensible to try and keep the Rhodedendrons off Turning Stone Edge as much as possiblke as its taken a huge effort by a small group to get the place in a decent state but it may only take a small effort by the visiting climbers to keep it in condition.

In reply to EricpAndrew:
Rhododendrons are a recent import to the country and will take over any land they are planted on. They are a weed. By removing them you are letting native vegetation grow, so are doing the area a favour

In reply to Offwidth:
im sorry but this guy is a menice to the climbing society...

I have read posts from him on many subjects and find i totally disagree with most of what he says,

if its about bolting lower offs, damaging plant life, or threatening acess to the countrys cliffs.

In reply to Offwidth:

I went to Giggleswick south the other weekend and got Midged to death, I returned on Monday night this week covered in carcinogenic insect repellent and barely saw any insects at all. Come to think of it we had the crag to ourselves so maybe it was just bio-repellant?

In reply to EricpAndrew:

No no no! I have spent many days up there with many friends armed with saws and large secateurs rescuing the crag from the rampant non-indigenous weed. I would wholeheartedly encourage any climbers going there to do anything they reasonably can to keep the rock clear.

I was at Castle Naze last night - not a midge in sight!

In reply to EricpAndrew:

Yeah, I hate the way he does all that volunteer work for the BMC particularly that shiny new Froggatt guide etc and the way he just turns up at area meetings, well, it's disgraceful.

(ironic chuckle)

In reply to Offwidth:

Several replies...

Slim first .. don't the conditions of your release affect you posting on this site? I guess we will have to discuss this in your Thursday pm consultation.

Thanks Tony and Sarah, thats good news. Ravensness Tor really is a potential gem to experienced peak climbers ...a whole new crag! I couldn't recommend it for the inexperienced though. How were the approach paths and the exits??

To all those reporting no midges thats good (I was at a midgeless Baslow yesterday but it was a nice sunny breezy day and midges don't like that... wish I could say the same about the ticks I removed), however the Amber and Matlock crags really are a serious alternative to Limestone on overcast humid windless days when the midges will eat you alive elsewhere on grit.

In reply to Offwidth:

It is quite am imposing place - I came out on the right (looking out from the top) last week. I wouldn't like to go down that way. The left is easier, but not straight forward.

In reply to Kipper:

The right (the left facing the crag) was easier for a while but some badgers objected to all the new attention in their backyard

In reply to Offwidth:

I noticed the massive badger encampment at the top... I thought it was steep (and a bit damp) when I was there.

In reply to Kipper: The right (or left facing the crag) descent is better if you avoid the new badger excavations by going a little bit further away from the crag than described in the new guide. Labouring up the track at dusk laden with gear I thought I might come face to face with one exiting the sett but they would have smelt me from miles away after a gardening session.

In reply to Tony & Sarah: Glad you enjoyed it. Which routes did you do and where the exits clean?

In reply to crimple: non-secteur, back in business, walkabout & candle in the wind exits ok

In reply to Tony & Sarah:

Is that all ?

In reply to Offwidth:

So what is it exactly that attracts the little buggers? Why do they prefer grit crags? Fern? Heather? Or are they just snobs?

In reply to jonny2vests: I dont think they are that fussy - they were in Scotland last week - I still have the scars! The wee b'stards.

In reply to Offwidth:

Only had a couple of hours hopefully return tomorrow or Saturday to clean up the rest. descent to the crag proved amusing did not find the footpath on the way down! This could be the most difficult route at the crag

In reply to Offwidth: No midges at Brimham, Tuesday night routechecking and we were on the lower edge out of any breeze. I thought it strange at the time. Got back to car and found a leech on my t shirt and I thought they liked the damp. Whats going on?

Slim, we are having a balsam bash in the local park, wanna come along?

In reply to TraceyR:

Surely the point of this thread is that they ARE fussy, hence no show at most Limestone crags. I'd just like to nail what exactly attracts the,

In reply to jonny2vests: Saturated soil and wet vegetation are their breeding grounds, hence their large biting numbers in boggy mountainous areas and grit edges usually surrounded by areas of damp moorland.

It's the female midge that bites you to obtain a blood-meal in order to aid the reproductive process. So each time you get bitten you can reflect that you've helped to create more of the wee beasties. I have an interesting little book (maybe out of print now) entitled 'Midges in Scotland' by George Hendry which tells you all you need to know about them.

In reply to Tony & Sarah: I draw the line at way marking posts! Then again. Seriously though right-hand side looking at the Tor is probably currently the best option.

In reply to crimple: Also if i remember correctly out of the 15 odd varieties of midge only 4 bite and yes, then it is the female also they dont like wind speeds over 5 mph. Got bitten by a couple of midges in the wye valley about 4 weeks ago and that is limestone!

Was down at burbage north a few weeks back seconding a friend on long tall sally, belaying at the bottom as a massive pain as was litrally having to scrape my face agasint the rock to get the midgies off, a decent midgie repellent from now on is not leaving my bag

In reply to Dahinchl:

What are the best midge repellants ?? Or are they generally as good as one another ?? Where is best to buy them ?

Ta.

Steve

In reply to EricpAndrew: http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&source=hp&q=rhododendron+removal&...

There are even grants available to fund removal..

In reply to Offwidth:

DDT, whatever became of DDT?

In reply to stvey: Lots about the relative merits of repellants on a recent thread that I can't seem to find now. Tend not to use them myself, preferring to choose venues (and conditions) where I know they won't be a problem. If that fails I cover up and head for the pub.

The Avon 'skin so soft' spray on stuff works wonder on the little things. (well especially the biters around the Pitlochry lochs.

In reply to kc_quicky: But apparently only the green one. I used the normal pink one last year when climbing at Crag Lough and got eaten alive with every uncovered piece of skin totally red all over with bites which took about 3 weeks to fade!!! They really really liked it!