In reply to nickthecodgod:
At Birchen on Thursday they were lurking in the shade. I got bitten a lot until I moved 6 foot! Nothing whilst climbing but it was very hot (and still).
No problem on Sat at Stanage even though it was still and no wind (4-7:30). I think the little blighters were thinking about feeding as we left (but we left enough blood on the routes for them not to need us!).
It's definitely about to get midge-tastic.