UKC

Bit of a long shot...

I have seen an online article on this place but now cannot find it and the ToposPeru site seems to be down. (This was probably where the link to the article was...)

Looking for the article (think it was about some Spanish climbers who spent a while there) or even better, any info from anyone who has been there as I am planning to go up for an explore/boulder/climb/freeze my nuts off in the rain/hotspring mission this weekend!

Cheers

In reply to kamon: There was a brief article in the US magazine Rock and Ice a couple of months ago. Their articles are usually accessible on their website so you might want to check there.

In reply to kamon: Hi kamon, i was there a few years ago and spent a day exploring and bouldering. There is quite a lot of rock of varying quality. There were at that time a number of bolted routes and some trad possibilities. There is a small mining town close by with a decent hotel and some basic restaurants/shops etc. Normally you get a bus to Cerro de Pasco which is about 8hrs from Lima (best to get the overnight Bus Cama). From Cerro de Pasco a bus or collectivo gets you to the town which i think goes by the same name as the rocks. It is bitterly cold at night because of the altitude but pleasant during the day. Send me an e-mail if you have any questions, oh and if you want the best info search for climbing clubs in Lima as there are a few and i am sure they will have info especially if you know a bit of Spanish. In fact i am looking at a picture of my wife bouldering with the Cobra in the background, the Cobra by the way is one of the most impressive bits of rock i have ever seen !.
Well i hope that is of help, i will be in Peru myself from 29 June.

Regards,

Tony.

In reply to Alan Rubin:

Just spent my afternoon break looking through some of those online articles. Didn't find one on Huayllay but enjoyed the reading! Cheers.

In reply to kamon: When I get home I'll check my back issues and try to find the one I recalled.

In reply to bartony800:

Cheers for the reply.

I´ll be driving up from Lima as I live here - hopefully be a bit quicker and more comfortable than the bus. We have 4 days including travel. Back at work in Lima on Wednesday.

I've heard various things about the rock, both the quality and quantity. It is a bit too far, and a bit too high (4100m+) for normal climbing weekends... This site has some pics when you scroll down including the "cobra" you mention. Looks sweet - is there a route up it?! http://huayllaypascoperu.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html

Won't have time to go into the wall in town and speak to Manolo or the boys there during the week, so your info is very welcome. Was there a topo - or was there someone there to show climbers around who knows the routes?

Worth bringing a bouldering mat - or enough bolted and trad?
Anything moderate?
What type of rock is it?

Cheers!

In reply to kamon: The article is in the June, 2010 issue of Rock and Ice (#186) and is entitled Monster Jacks. With such an obvious title I'm just amazed that you couldn't locate the article!!!!

In reply to Alan Rubin:

Thanks for looking it up Alan. No.186 isn't up online yet unfortunately.

But the Topposperu site is back up: http://toposperu.wordpress.com/pasco/huayllay/
The place looks cracking!

I'm (even more) excited about the long weekend now - though slightly worried to see what going from sea level to 4300m in a weekend will do to my rockclimbing ability!

In reply to kamon:seems like you have got your hands on the info you are looking for, there is supposed to be a route up the Cobra but i couldn't see the bolts, i would take the mat.
Anyhow enjoy but i don't envy you that kind of height gain without any form of acclimatisation not that i use it myself but diamox can be useful for this kind of trip. I had a friend who workrd in la Paz and she took it a day bfore flying out and for a couple of days after arrival and it really helped her. If you are feeling rough Huanuco is the shortest route to a lower altitude.

Regards,

Tony.