/ NEWS: Dan Varian Repeats Northumberland E2
Is it a slow news week - or is this something out of the ordinary?
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56855
Someone has also chipped texture onto the top smear (its a bit remote for a certain cornish activist so he's probably safe)
If anyone has any more first hand info about it that'd be great.
That's it. It is simply called Direct Start E2 7b in the Northumberland Climbing Guide, then given its proper name, Lupino Lane, in the Northumberland Bouldering Guide where the grade is given as Font 8a (E2 7a). If I recall correctly it was graded TU (Totally Ungradeable) by the first and second ascentionist both of whom were called Nick Dixon. I believe Nick repeated it in front of the entire stag party but none of them could do it although Johnny Dawes came closest. I have it all on a VHS/DVD I got off Nick at the time.
As far as I know Dan is the second person to climb Lupino Lane. Awesome effort.
See Stone Play (Stone Country Press) page 100 and 101. Full
article and photo of Lupino Lane.
> I have it all on a VHS/DVD I got off Nick at the time.
If we club together could you be persuaded to share that?
Just spoke to Nick today. He did the route twice. FA was two weeks prior to the stag do when he went to the crag with Noel Crane. He then repeated it at the stag do.
I did the thing 2 weeks prior to Andy's stag do , when Noel did Reivers, I did it again eventually at the stag do when there were about 30 acomplished climbers trying it or watching. (Nobody else was successful but it was Joe Brown who came closest). Richie Heep and Johnny were video-ing and i have a copy. I called it Lupino Lane (who performed a similar stunt in 1921) and it is my writings about it in Stone Play. We didn't do mats so George caught us sometimes as we missed.
Quite the A-list stag do then!
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