/ NEWS: Dan Varian Repeats Northumberland E2

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UKC News - on 23 Jul 2010
[Dan Varian on his new problem Ivan Dobsky - Font 8A+, 2 kb]Dan Varian has been out in Northumberland and has repeated the small E2 Lupino Lane at Ravensheugh.

Is it a slow news week - or is this something out of the ordinary?

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56855

The Pylon King on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Troll
Graeme Alderson on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to UKC News: Is this not Verbal Abuse Direct Start? It may or may not have had some ascents during Andy Popp's stag do in the late 90's when the likes of Johnny Dawes, Ben Pritchard, Andy, Noel Crane & Nick Dixon (and lots of others) were trying it.
Niall Grimes - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to Graeme Alderson: yeah, I'm pretty sure Nick did it that day. Was it his route originally? And maybe Johnny?
Graeme Alderson on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to Niall Grimes: No idea who did the FA, it's not mentioned in the guidebook. Bing. And how could I forget you were there Niall. Bing.
white noise - on 23 Jul 2010
As far as i can ascertain, from a brief conversation with Pritch. It is only Dixon who did it on the stag do, there is a short article on it written by Neil in stone play, and he named it lupino lane after the 1920s stunt aficionado of the same name. It is also about as ungradeable as they come

Someone has also chipped texture onto the top smear (its a bit remote for a certain cornish activist so he's probably safe)

If anyone has any more first hand info about it that'd be great.
Chris F - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to UKC News: I think you need to swap the pics around. The embedded pic is of Ivan Dobsky, the meatsafe murderer. Only I didn't do it, I only confessed when they threatened to put my testicles in a magimixer.
Niall Grimes - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to Graeme Alderson: Well, if its bing and consolation, bing I for bing got you were there too bing.
Steve Crowe - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
> (In reply to UKC News) Is this not Verbal Abuse Direct Start?

That's it. It is simply called Direct Start E2 7b in the Northumberland Climbing Guide, then given its proper name, Lupino Lane, in the Northumberland Bouldering Guide where the grade is given as Font 8a (E2 7a). If I recall correctly it was graded TU (Totally Ungradeable) by the first and second ascentionist both of whom were called Nick Dixon. I believe Nick repeated it in front of the entire stag party but none of them could do it although Johnny Dawes came closest. I have it all on a VHS/DVD I got off Nick at the time.

As far as I know Dan is the second person to climb Lupino Lane. Awesome effort.
Steve Crowe - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to UKC News:


See Stone Play (Stone Country Press) page 100 and 101. Full
article and photo of Lupino Lane.
JJL - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to Steve Crowe:

>
> I have it all on a VHS/DVD I got off Nick at the time.

If we club together could you be persuaded to share that?
The sharp end - on 23 Jul 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Just spoke to Nick today. He did the route twice. FA was two weeks prior to the stag do when he went to the crag with Noel Crane. He then repeated it at the stag do.
nickdixon on 23 Jul 2010 - 5ac8f531.bb.sky.com
In reply to UKC News: I am so pleased that Lupino Lane is receiving attention that I have been moved to register !!
I did the thing 2 weeks prior to Andy's stag do , when Noel did Reivers, I did it again eventually at the stag do when there were about 30 acomplished climbers trying it or watching. (Nobody else was successful but it was Joe Brown who came closest). Richie Heep and Johnny were video-ing and i have a copy. I called it Lupino Lane (who performed a similar stunt in 1921) and it is my writings about it in Stone Play. We didn't do mats so George caught us sometimes as we missed.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Will Hunt - on 24 Jul 2010
In reply to nickdixon:
Quite the A-list stag do then!

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