/ Mark Reeves, how to climb harder? Opinions or more info.

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Ewan Russell - on 31 Jul 2010
Just read marks blog post.
http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/blog/2010/07/30/how-to-climb-harder-update/?utm_source=feedburn...
Was wondering if anyone had seen a copy or had any more info on the book?
thanks
shark - on 31 Jul 2010
In reply to The third:

Read your link: It should be in the shops for the first week in september, all things going well at the printers
Mark Reeves - on 31 Jul 2010
In reply to The third: Hi Ewan

What Info are you looking for?

The book has been reviewed/checked over by several instructors, many of them from Plas Y Brenin. The mind games chapter was read by a Sports Psychologist who happened to be a Mountain Guide as well as a world leader in sports science research. All of which seemed impressed by what they saw, although I take direct feedback with a pinch of slat as it would take a strong person to say something bad to someones face. Interestingly, even the reports I heard back via a third party had only good things to say, which was even better to hear.

Other than those people who have seen the book already no else has seen it I am afraid.

If you are about next week in llanberis, give me a call. I might give you sneaky peak of the PDF on my computor.
Ewan Russell - on 31 Jul 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves:
kool, just curious. No doubt I will have a gander at a copy(if its good I may even pay for it and take it out of the shop!) when it comes out. Thanks
Mick Ward - on 01 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves:
> (In reply to The third)

> although I take direct feedback with a pinch of slat as it would take a strong person to say something bad to someones face.

For me, it would be disrespectful to temper feedback. The feedback should, of course, be constructive and thought through, rather than mindless or (even worse) malicious opinion.

Over the years, many people have told me my writing was crap. Strangely they never gave sound reasons and they rarely seemed to come up with the goods themselves.

So don't worry about criticism. I'm sure that what you've produced is fine and will help a lot of people. Good luck with it.

Mick

mattrm - on 01 Aug 2010
In reply to The third:

Well I'll definitely take a good look at it. Should be a good read with a bit of luck.
Al Randall on 01 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ward: Hi Mick whatever happened to your efforts on a similar subject. I've got a manuscript somewhere, I think it was called "How to Climb Two Grades Harder" ore something like that.

Al
Mick Ward - on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to tradlad:

Hi Al,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. What do you mean, "How To Climb Two Grades Harder"? Think I'm some kind of cheapskate?? It was "How To Climb Three Grades Harder"! And people did - loads of them. Personally I went up six grades, from F6c to F7c, in about a month.

Quite a lot of copies sold, despite me never actively promoting it on my 'home ground' - here. But it would float by on google adwords and get picked up by some cynical youth saying, "Is this a scam?" Mates and satisfied clients would pile in to defend me... and loads more copies would sell. However I was very uncomfortable about my integrity being called into question; probably need to be more thick-skinned.

Good luck to Mark. I always think that, even if you just pick up a couple of nuggests, buying information for improvement is worth it. I reduced things to a simple formula: "Want to get from Leeds to London? Just get on the MI and go south." But there are, of course, many other ways of getting from Leeds to London. And we can learn from all of them. So Mark's work will complement Neal Gresham, Dave McLeod, Libby Peter, Adrian Berry etc. It's all good.

Mick





Serpico on 02 Aug 2010 - 92.16.5.61 whois?
In reply to Mick Ward:
> (In reply to tradlad)
>
> Hi Al,
>
> It was "How To Climb Three Grades Harder"!

Does it come with a guarantee? Another 3 grades would be dead handy.
Mick Ward - on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Mick Ward)

> Does it come with a guarantee? Another 3 grades would be dead handy.

Don't I know it! I think I need a coach to get to F8a and E7. Any offers?

Interesting question though. If you look at most UK climbing walls (or UKC logbook entries) there seems to be a normal distribution between say, F5 and F6b. Let's take the typical 'experienced' climber onsighting F6a and frigging his way up F6b+. Could he/she learn to redpoint F7a and onsight F6b+? In my experience, yes, and fairly quickly. That was my audience, the F5/F7b lot - probably 95% of UK climbers.

You'd know more about this than me but, it seems that, for many people, F8a+ to F8b may take years - and F8c+ to F9a may take most of a climbing lifetime. But hey, that's the joy of struggle.

The irony is that so many 'normal' climbers can make relatively quick gains - but only if they go about it the right way. Hopefully Mark will help 'em.

Mick

P.S. Sorry, forgot about the guarantee bit. Yes, everything I do comes with a money-back guarantee. Clickbank quite rightly insist on it anyway.





pigeonjim on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to The third:

Looking forward to this Mr Reeves. Sept means I should have time to read it before I am able to climb again!
Serpico on 02 Aug 2010 - 92.16.5.61 whois?
In reply to Mick Ward:
> (In reply to Serpico)

> Mick
>
> P.S. Sorry, forgot about the guarantee bit. Yes, everything I do comes with a money-back guarantee. Clickbank quite rightly insist on it anyway.

That sounds potentially costly, which is no comment on the content of the book, it's just that you can lead a horse to water...
Everyone in your target demographic could climb a MINIMUM of 3 grades harder if they simply climbed more and tried harder, but it's the latter point that everyone (myself included) fails on. People simply don't get sufficiently out of their comfort zone (in every aspect of their training/climbing) with the regularity needed to make serious improvement.
If I see another thread asking 'I'm finding climbing hard - which Yoga/Running/Knitting/French class should I do to improve?', or 'Where can I buy a Patxi-style weight vest so I can climb badly on V2's instead of V3's and kid myself I'm improving?', I may just cancel my internet.

shark - on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ward: Don't I know it! I think I need a coach to get to F8a and E7. Any offers?


Its quite expensive and there's no going back.

You also need more than one - I've looked into it for you and you have to change coaches at Bristol to get to Sheffield one way.


Sonya Mc on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves: Is this 'Thee' book? <sorry, can't remember how to do italics!'

'Bout bloody time :oP
Mick Ward - on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to shark:

Sheffield one way? Seems like I've been down that lonesome road before. Mind you, changing coaches at Bristol might give me time to pop over to Cheddar for another quick go on...

Mick
johnl - on 02 Aug 2010
In reply to Serpico: It worked for me, F6a+ to F6c+ (is that 4 grades?), not by climbing more or trying harder but a combination of knowing what to do and how to do it - thanks Micks. Now I've started climbing more and trying harder for my F7a/7b project and I know I can do it.
John.
Serpico on 03 Aug 2010 - 92.16.5.61 whois?
In reply to johnl:
> (In reply to Serpico) It worked for me,

Where did I say it wouldn't work?

koalapie - on 03 Aug 2010
> If I see another thread asking 'I'm finding climbing hard - which Yoga/Running/Knitting/French class should I do to improve?', or 'Where can I buy a Patxi-style weight vest so I can climb badly on V2's instead of V3's and kid myself I'm improving?', I may just cancel my internet.

What about yogalatte?

Serpico on 03 Aug 2010 - 92.16.5.61 whois?
In reply to koalapie:
> [...]
>
> What about yogalatte?

I prefer yogaccino.

Mick Ward - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Mick Ward)

Sorry, didn't see your comments yesterday.


> People simply don't get sufficiently out of their comfort zone (in every aspect of their training/climbing) with the regularity needed to make serious improvement.

Totally agree. And yes, that includes me also.


> Everyone in your target demographic could climb a MINIMUM of 3 grades harder if they simply climbed more and tried harder...

Hmm... not sure it's as straighforward as this. In my experience, people hit 'grade ceilings' and continuing to bash their heads against the ceiling rarely leads to success. (Often it can result in injury.) In the early 90s when I trained in The Office, there might be 100+ climbers in The Foundry nearby, banging out more of the same old stuff... with the same old results. And four guys in The Office grimly determined on F8b and reaching it.

When I first met Mark Stevenson, he'd done 50 E2s. It was obvious to me (but not him) that he could climb E4. A while later, he climbed Resurrection. Then he went on to Right Wall. He'd got stronger working F7bs and he'd broken free of the E2 mindset.


> That sounds potentially costly, which is no comment on the content of the book, it's just that you can lead a horse to water...

Agreed, you can lead a horse to water. The cost... a couple of quickdraws maybe. I spent 50 times that yesterday getting coaching on something else. The cost is piffling. Do people stand outside pubs and nightclubs counting their pennies? Don't think so.

> If I see another thread asking 'I'm finding climbing hard - which Yoga/Running/Knitting/French class should I do to improve?', or 'Where can I buy a Patxi-style weight vest so I can climb badly on V2's instead of V3's and kid myself I'm improving?', I may just cancel my internet.

Know the feeling of frustration! But instead of cancelling, I suggest to people to have not one grade but two: an onsight grade and a redpoint grade. That fundamental distinction opens up realms of otherwise unexplored possibility.

Feck it! If I'm going to get grief, I might as well advertise here and get advertised grief! Ye've only yerselves to blame... ;)

Mick

ads.ukclimbing.com
Richard Hession on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ward:

Somebody had recently left a copy at the wall in Liverpool behind the counter so I read through it in an evening and thoroughly enjoyed it Mick.

I went out psyched to redpoint the next week and went from fr7a to fr7c in 2 days! I'm not sure about the effectiveness of getting from Font 8A to 8B+ anytime in the near future (decade)

I thought McLeod's 9 out of 10 was similar in places too i.e. work weaknesses as they will bring the biggest improvements and work on circuits as well as redpointing hard things a lot to get stronger/fitter for increasing O/S'ing. All fairly obvious I guess.

I agree that it all comes down to motivation and making the most of any time you can spare and setting realistic goals both short and long term.
Mick Ward - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Richard Hession:

Hey thanks, Rich, but I don't think you've got anything to learn from me, mate. F7a to F7c in 2 days! The fastest ever??

Agree totally about motivation and goals. You seem to be pretty good at hitting yours. I guess it all comes down to that.

Best wishes to all at AW.

Mick
Mark Reeves - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Sonya Mc: Hi Sonya

Yes, this is finally the book. Been about 4 years in the making, maybe even longer, as I think I started writing the original chapters in 2005, and I got the book deal in early 2006! Hope your well, email me as I need to send you one of the 12 free copies I get, as you did a good job in giving feedback.

It moved one a lot since you saw the text document. With the pictures it is a very visual book.

Hope your well

Mark

Mark Reeves - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to pigeonjim: What have you done to yourself this time Jim? You still in Sweden?
pigeonjim on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves:

Living in Newcastle now. Injured my knee at work last oct. Not climbed since.

Hope things are going well with you and good luck with the book :)
Ian Jones on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ward:

Mick,
When did this book come out and how do I get a copy?
Hope it's better than Dave MacLeod's; that nearly cured my insomnia.
shark - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:

Its a handbook not a ripping yarn.
Mick Ward - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:

Hi Ian, I'll blast you over a copy. Bloody hell, I think you're mentioned in it. Getting from HVS to E5 in a year wasn't bad. Don't think I can claim the credit though - apart from holding your ropes the odd time!

Mick

P.S. "The two UK climbers with the best footwork are John Dunne... and 'The Purple Pimpernel'." (Stevie Haston)

P.P.S. The Stoney reunion seems to have gone back by another week. Might that be any better for you? I know it's a bit of a way but would be great to see you.

ksjs - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Richard Hession: Rich, you dont count (Fr7a to Fr7c in 2 days) as youve never done routes before so youre just finding your level ;)
ksjs - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ward: im always open to ideas / insights (at least i think i am). any blurb on your book / anywhere to peruse a copy?
cheers
ksjs - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves: Hi Mark, hope all good. this sounds like another worthy addition to the genre - are you aiming it at any particular level or is it designed for all-comers?
cheers, Keith
Mark Reeves - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to ksjs: Hi

It is aimed at beginner/intermediates, simply loads of exercises and techniques for better ropework/safety through to improving your fundemental movement techniques. That said the section of the psychology of performance entitled Mind Games would help a more advanced/elite climber develop a solid mental approach. The whole chapter is main aimed at building confidence, in particular I have put in a lot of information about developing imagery as a skill in itself.

This goes beyond what i have previous read anywhere on the subject, that said there are many exercises and background to be found on my coaching blog.

The training section, in particular performance analysis might also help an advance climber focus on there weaknesses by help to identify them in a systematic way, through something called performance profiling.
Fraser on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to ksjs:
> (In reply to Richard Hession) Rich, you dont count (Fr7a to Fr7c in 2 days) as youve never done routes before so youre just finding your level ;)

Beat me to it - checking out RH's logbook, it looks to me like he should be into the 8th grade no problem! ;D

ksjs - on 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves: cheers Mark - will definitely keep an eye out for it. good luck with it!
heist182 on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to The third: Just a passing comment - for a 'writer' he makes a lot of spelling and grammar mistakes in his blogs...
Mark Reeves - on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to heist182: I have to totally agree with you there heist.

I have taken my time with this project (about 5 years), and fortunately the editor has been great with checking my english and they also employ a proofreader, even the designer is extremely dillergent (how do you spell that word?).

I often write my blogs very quickly and just hit the publish button, as such I can only admit my short comings.

heist182 on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves: Well I'm glad it hasn't held you back, you obviously have a lot of experience to share. As such I will definitely be putting it on my Christmas list.

p.s. it's diligent
p.s.s. use Google Chrome it has an in-built spell checker which is very handy
Mick Ward - on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to heist182:

> (In reply to The third) Just a passing comment - for a 'writer' he makes a lot of spelling and grammar mistakes in his blogs...

For me, that's part of the charm. I don't think that blogs and internet posts require the same degree of accuracy as books.

Andy Kirkpatrick could not be more honest about his 'literary shortcomings'. But Psychovertical's brilliant!

Currently I'm correcting a proofreader's correction of a book I've written. About 40% of his observations are relevant; 60% aren't. Having said that, I'm still grateful. Even though I'm a professional writer, my grammar and spelling are far from perfect. There are probably mistakes in this...

Mick
Richard Hall - on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to shark:
> (In reply to Mick Ward) Don't I know it! I think I need a coach to get to F8a and E7. Any offers?
>
>
> Its quite expensive and there's no going back.
>
> You also need more than one - I've looked into it for you and you have to change coaches at Bristol to get to Sheffield one way.


Grades easier up north then are they?
shark - on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Richard Hall: Grades easier up north then are they?


I wish. Word is Cheddar is the new Kalymnos.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Richard Hall - on 04 Aug 2010
In reply to shark:
> I wish. Word is Cheddar is the new Kalymnos.

Touché.

I think it just feels easier because the weather is better and the girls prettier south of the M4.
TomLudd - on 07 Aug 2010
Seeing as we are getting picky heist182, I do believe it's 'P.P.S.' not 'p.s.s.' (Google chrome didn't help you with that one eh!)
Pot calling the kettle black is it :)
TomLudd - on 07 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves: Good work Mark. I'll be purchasing a copy to help me to train for and climb a new DWS project which I keep falling off!

Mark Reeves - on 09 Aug 2010
In reply to TomLudd: Hi Tom. Wheres your project, local to you or are you having to drive for it? My training advice to you would be to lose your surf boards for a while! Hope your well, is it monsoon season down there? Was meant to be nice up here today, and I was woken up by torrential rain.
TomLudd - on 16 Aug 2010
In reply to Mark Reeves: The surfboards are still in the van ready, but no surf still so I seem to be going well with the training for climbing! The new line is local to me, and it's an unclimbed line on perfect rock so I'm pretty amped. You should come have a go on it - I recon it's E5 6a/b in old money. S0 F7b ish?
Had a good weekend DWS down south with a bunch of DWS legends - Crispin (The Wadfather), Mike Robertson, Jules Lines) Managed to get up some of the DWS lines at the Castle (Vista, Anniversary Waltz, and Critical Masses) which are absolutely top class. No rain here...

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