UKC

I have just had an e-mail from Torbjørn Enevold, co-author of the Lofoten guidebook - it has been the wettest summer since 1953 up there - and it hasn't finished yet. I hope not too many folks have had a miserable time.

We have just had 2 months in Southern Norway and it hardly rained at all!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs: just back from Iceland and the weather has in the main been fantastic - 3 or 4 wet days in the month, which the Icelanders seem to think is fantastic. I suspect it's the jet stream playing silly beggars and pushing the low pressures across slightly higher up?

In reply to Chris Craggs: Hey Chris,

Do you think Lofoten has much to offer the VDiff leader? I've got your guide, and it does seem like there is a general lack of 'green spot' low grade routes, and most of those are no-star single pitch routes

Are there big long easy routes that aren't in the guide, or does the rock there just not suit easier climbing?

Thanks

In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:

There is plenty of low angled rock and scrambling peaks. Unlike the UK though, the Norwegians don't seem bothered about putting up easy routes.

The classic 'beginner's route' there is Pianohandler Lund's route http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=27472. A couple of the cracks on it are pretty stiff - it would get at least HS 4b in Wales.

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs: Bizarrely, across the mountains, Finland is having its hottest summer ever from the south coast to Lapland. Temps up to 37 degrees. If people get washed out in Lofoten maybe they should try over the hills in Lapland for some drier cragging.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Went to Lofoten for a week during July and while it rained everyday we managed to get 3 'days' of climbing in, including Vestpillaren (although we did get showered on the route twice, but we topped out in glorious sunshine).

Also, got some fishing in on the wet days, which was also nice.

BTW: Coley Smoke, while an ok route in a great setting is not worth 3 stars.

In reply to Jody:

Glad to hear you got something done. I hope Vestpillaren made the trip worthwhile!

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Vestpillaren is just amazing.

FYI: The fix peg on the 11th pitch of Vestpillaren might have wandered off (and possibily also an in-situ nut at the end of the groove?). Neither me or my partner saw either.

I understand that the peg was poor away, so maybe not such a loss.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I had a week in June. It rained every day, though with the midnight sun, "day" is less meaningful, and got some very enjoyable climbing in between showers/storms. I almost drowned on Gandalf, but by the time I'd finished yelling "I think we should go down", the gales had blown the rock bone dry again.
Generally, if it wasn't raining, it was howling with wind. I thought I was going to get blown off Glamtinden, which still had snow on it, and I was very cold, despite wearing two jackets and a pair of gloves. All in all it was pretty exciting

In reply to KeithAlexander:

When we went up for the launch of the guide (end of May 2008), Torbjørn said it might be a bit 'early'.

The first few days were bitterly cold and damp:

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/97966567

but it perked up nicely:

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/98400574

Chris