/ OutDoor Show 2010 - CLIMBING HARDWARE and Jim Titt on Design
We also bring you an insight in to designing climbing gear by Jim Titt which we hope won't be of interest just to engineers.
The curves are based on fractal theory which is effectively what gives you the meanders in a river, they provide the slowest flow for the most water volume which is the same as the highest friction for a given rope
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2910
The bit about the new belay plate is the highlight of the article for me. I'm looking forward to Jim Titts article.
Well, if you want a sport climbing krab, they've made a really nice looking one haven't they? Seems like a sensible addition to the range and a good competitor to the fantastic BD sports QDs that use the same pattern.
Still very interested in the chicane design and looking forward to the article.
Good little piece from Jim, I look forward to the rest of it, I'm sure it'll be as interesting as ever.
Those Mammut and DMM bent gates look good. And Metolius steals the show with the best anodizing :)
Will the spangly new sticht plate be available in both right and left handed versions? The curve in the x plane makes it unidextrous (is that a real word?)
Looks great but I think its powdercoat isn't it? It comes off if you so much as look at it.
> Will the spangly new sticht plate be available in both right and left handed versions? The curve in the x plane makes it unidextrous (is that a real word?)
I can't see that. Looks completely ambidextrous to me.
I like shiney things as much as the next magpie but there is just nothing new here at all.
Okay maybe a Grigri that can *officially* handle a Joker is a good thing but everything else is just 10 year old kit in a party frock.
Yeah, but you might be able to pick up some cheap extenders as all the gullible people upgrade to next years model...
On reflection maybe I could have written that better!
When I started on the curves I used simple radii and then marked them with paint and observed where the contact was. The curves where then adjusted to give more even contact to reduce wear. At some point we noticed they where resembling recurring curve patterns and so it was easy enough to base them on fractal theory which is a tool to use for this kind of stuff. The connection with rivers is a good example of natural physics developing the most efficient ways of doing something. If you have a straight river the water runs through a high speed (or low resistance for our belay device)whereas with a lot of meanders it flows more slowly for the same volume of water (or more resistance for us) until in the end you have too many or too acute curves and the river will jump across them, not what we want with a belay plate either!
The curves as they are now are quite complex to avoid any possibility of twisting the rope and to get the most effect in the shortest length but they work which is what matters!
Thanks for following up.
I'm sure the chicane is a great piece of engineering design, and I look forward to reading the article.
If we ever meet I'd love to discuss the maths in more detail.
When will the grivel dogbone covers be available? I might be able to make use of some of my unused, slim dogbones!
The one in the photo looks curved in the x plane (horizontal, left to right) creating a C shaped curve. This would favour a right hander, dead rope in RH. I would imagine the S curve created by LH use will alter the properties, greater friction but grabby on paying out perhaps?
Jim is probably the best man to answer this
Surely the left and right side of the belay device are mirror images. If this is the case when using a single rope you can have a left of right hander depending on which side of the device you use.
No idea when it comes out Iīm afraid, thatīs a DMM thing!
As to it being handed, the two sides are mirror images but in reality it doesnīt matter as the rope goes straight into the curves at the start. It just looks a bit different on the pictures, you can use either slot for a single rope and canīt tell any difference.
Great article Jim.
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