UKC

ROCK ARCHIVIST AUDIO: Tom Proctor and Stoney Middleton

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 UKC News 03 Aug 2010
[Geof Birtles, Cioch Climbing Club member, new router, climbing media publisher., 2 kb]Preparations are well under way for the Stoney Middleton Revival Weekend on Saturday/Sunday 11th/12th September 2010.

But first, 20 hours of audio tapes have been digitised and are being published by Phil Kelly at the Rocharchivist website in conjunction with the Mountain Heritage Trust.

Recorded by the late Giles Barker they feature Andy Pollitt, Joe Brown, Don Whillans, Nat Allen, Paul Nunn, Ed Drummond, John Allen and more. Here we preview an interview with Tom Proctor who established the hardest routes in the Peak in the 1970's.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57053

 Michael Ryan 03 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Can people play the audio?
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Works just fine. Ghosts!


Chris
 BlownAway 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hi

a couple of people have emailed and asked where the 2 Tom Proctor episodes are so I'm sorry if things aren't clear.

If you follow the link to the Giles Barker archive on the site, then at the bottom there is a section titled "interview series"..... Select Tom Proctor from here and it should all be clear from there.

If anyone can think of how to make it any clearer let me know.
Enjoy!

Phil
Removed User 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Hello Mick,
How can I reply to Chris jackson to congratulate him on such a great article and comment on some of the photos ?
Regards,
Boje
 BlownAway 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Removed Userboje:

Hi

Chris has a user account here on UKC so you could possibly email him through the site, alternatively post on this thread, especially as a few of the other Cioch Club members would no doubt be interested to read any comments.

Phil
NYork 04 Aug 2010
In reply to RockArchivist:

Hi, bit of an aside because it relates to Millstone rather than Stoney
but it would be great if you could secure and preserve the footage of Tom Proctor repeating Green Death for the BBC programme "Rockface" it is classic.

It featured in the episode about climbing harder routes and also had footage of Geoff Birtle and Jack Street climbing a route I think in the Keyhole Cave area ( Regent Street ?). Trouble is it was about 36 years ago and before the wide spread ownership of video recorders and and apart from distant late night repeats in the 1970's I have not seen the footage since.

With hindsight it may be a bit of an side from the Stoney theme but it does relate to three members of the club climbing hard gritstone routes in the Peak at the dawn of the revival of hard gritstone climbing in the early 1970s
 Mick Ward 04 Aug 2010
In reply to NYork:

Yes, that was a good programme. Roger Baxter-Jones (RIP) followed. I think that Birtles and Street did the first or second route on the left-hand side of the Keyhole Cave. Would be great to see it again.

Mick
 BlownAway 04 Aug 2010
In reply to NYork:
> (In reply to RockArchivist)
>
> the footage of Tom Proctor repeating Green Death for the BBC programme "Rockface" it is classic.

I think that if you listen to the second of the Tom Proctor interviews, Tom actually talks about this programme and some of the chenanigins that surrounded it.

Surely though this must pre-date the popularity of the VCR, unless anyone knows any better???

Phil

Removed User 05 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:
To Chris Jackson
STONEY REUNION - THE CALL OF ICHABOD ?
Hello Chris,
Nice article,a great bit of nostalgia for days of former glory - I'm sure Geoff loves it.I lived in Sheffield from '64 to '74 (I'm surprised we never really met) but, apart from drinking with the likes of Paul and Tony in the Moon, I was never part of the Stoney scene. My hard climbing had been at Extreme standard in North Wales, but I found climbing at Stoney to be something else - I recall leading Sin and Froth and a few other VS's and found them all desperate !
Loved the photos from the 'were' to 'are' - but particularly the one with Jack and the A35 van on the way back from Wales. I also owned an A35 van and drove regularly to Wales, often by myself. I was not one of the legendary fast drivers such as Jack or Al Harris but I thought I went pretty well - my best time from Sheffield to the Pen-Y-Gyrd being two hours and fifty minutes. I moved to Canada in 1974 and for the last four years of my working career I was transferred back to Sheffield together with a company car - a turbo Mercedes - Benz. Well, whether I went 'overland' or via Stockport it always seemed to take at least four hours !
Congratulations again.
Regards,
Boje
PS : Have a great reunion weekend - I wish I could join you but I will be in Jackson Hole, Wyoming - hiking / rafting around the Grand Tetons and drinking beer and listening to country music in the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and the Silver Dollar Saloon.
Nick Colton, BMC 05 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing to hear Tom again. Lovely man. Great climber.

Looking forward to hearing the other tapes now.
 BlownAway 05 Aug 2010
In reply to Nick Colton, BMC:

Hi Nick

did you listen to both the longer episodes? I'm trying to figure out what the optimum length is.... Maybe 20/25 mins is a bit long.

What do you think?

Phil

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