UKC

Kilnsey main

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 dunnyg 12 Aug 2010
Does kilnsey main need any pegs or anything at the moment, or can it be done on in situ bolts. How do you go about lowering off when you are at the end. I assume you need another rope and just do it in 1 abb, once you have brought your second up? The guide says the lower off is shoddy - I guess its not too bad as some people must have used it a year ago when they completed the route. Any information, tips etc for this would be very wellcome.
cheers
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 12 Aug 2010
In reply to dunnyg: It is fully equipped. There is no need for any additional pegs. There is enough insitu equipment to swing from draw to draw. You can climb from the ground to the top/end and lower off with a 70m rope and your second need never leave the ground!
OP dunnyg 12 Aug 2010
In reply to Steve Crowe: So say with a 50m, you could get to half way, then go to lower off, lower off, and "top rope" your 2nd up?
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 12 Aug 2010
In reply to dunnyg:

That would work with a 60m(sixty) rope but if your second fails to cross the roof he may wish you had used a 70m rope!

Take care up there!




 Nige M 12 Aug 2010
In reply to dunnyg: It's been a popular sport route this year and several people currently have it as a project so the quickdraws are all in place. If you do it as an aid route, just make sure that the various clips are left as you found them.

Also, watch that lower off if you lead and lower back to the ground and then your second follows. It would probably not be advisable to rely solely on the old lower off 5 m up the hanging groove at the end. Better for the second to lower from the lip where the last couple of bolts on the route can remain clipped.

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