UKC

My rack is almost exclusively used for trad, so i have lots of thin wire gates. However, as im about to embark on a sport climbing trip i might buy some draws slightly more suitable to taking repeated falls (dogbone type, right slang?) Was looking at the DMM aeros, as you can get 5 for £60 quid

http://www.snowandrock.com/dmm-aero-qd-set-12cm-pack-of-5/quickdraws/ski-sn...

but only seen them on snow and rock and no one else seems to stock them, is this for a reason? anyone have an experience with them?

I'd like a solid gate, just so i feel nice and safe, so can anyone recommend a decent sport quickdraw? i'd like to pick up a set of around 10 for £100-150ish, then a few slings and screwgates for longer runners.

thanks

In reply to Kemics: Just get 10 petzl tapes and keep your old biners.

In reply to Kemics:
Haha you must be rich!

I would (and have) just buy some 10cm slings for your original quickdraws and swap the krabs for your trip. If you are very very worried about damaging your lightweight krabs then the aeros are a very good buy, lightweight and nice to clip.

In reply to Kemics:

i didnt think of just buying the slings, a combination of being hungover and in all reality, not that bright.

In the end i settled for buying 12 DMM pro clips, as they have nice meaty solid gates. They do only have the standard 12mm dynema but at £7 each my stinge got the better of me

However, just seen online i can buy petzl express nylon webbing replacement for £3 each, so might buy a couple to put on the 'lucky' crux quickdraws

I have DMM Shadows for sport (and DMM Phantoms for trad). Both are v good though if I were regularly dogging routes I'd probably want a wider dogbone, like the Petzl ones.

In reply to Kemics: I like the DMM Eclipse as it has a solid gate (like the feel too) but also very big opening and easy to grab for dogging, etc, when working routes.

In reply to TobyA:
I don't understand, could you clarify? Afraid I am missing something here.

In reply to Jonathan Emett: There's no nose on the gate to catch on the bolt.

In reply to Robertostallioni:
ok - is that ever a problem? as in - "soooooo much easier"? I strip sport routes all the time on manky old quickdraws with noses like cyrano de bergerac.

In reply to Jonathan Emett: When its not vert?

In reply to Robertostallioni:
lost me there I'm afraid. I'm terribly green.

In reply to Robertostallioni:
ahh.. thinks - not vertical? makes sense now

In reply to Jonathan Emett: Exactly - but not just overhanging (I'm too rubbish to do anything overhanging!). If the route is a diagonal and you are having to reach far to your side to strip the QDs its much easier. I had to do exactly that on Saturday and using the Shadows was a huge help.

Keylock noses are also a bit safer in that if you fall clipping its less likely you will catch the skin of your fingers on the gates. I've seen a nasty injury from that. They also catch less on your t-shirt when taking them off or putting them on your harness etc etc.

They used to be expensive because Petzl had the patent but now that has lapsed so everyone is doing them. Camp do some really good values ones for example now - perfect for sport - the Orbit: http://www.camp-usa.com/products/quickdraws/orbit-express.asp Google to find a good offer on them.

In reply to TobyA:

I have a set of these Camp Orbit quickdraws, i find them fairly light easy to clip, clean nose, and all for 7 quid each from decathlon.

In reply to Kemics:

Camp Orbit quickdraws are so simlar to petzl spirits.

The sling are a little thinner but still made of nylon so are kind to the hand when you have to dog on them.

Also key lock nose makes them easy to strip on overhangs

At £7 each you really can't go wrong.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/orbit-polished-quickdraw-33855084/

or

simond Rocky quickdraw
Same shape, size, price and length but some how 5g heaver
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/rocky-polished-quickdraw-33856799/