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Northern Corries might be worth a look...
In reply to Glen:
They certainly will (may live to regret sounding certain there), Just looking at a few forecasts something may happen at the end of next week but should the following week I would think !
Here is the 7 to 14 day forecast which gives a visually promising look !
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/14days.asp
Aye Dan
They certainly will (may live to regret sounding certain there), Just looking at a few forecasts something may happen at the end of next week but should the following week I would think !
Here is the 7 to 14 day forecast which gives a visually promising look !
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/14days.asp
Aye Dan
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan: That'll be my half term then....
In reply to Glen:
There's a wee bit of snow forecast for today and tonight on the tops. Then cold and clear tomorrow.
So I'm off for a wander up the South Glen Shiel ridge from Sgurr na Sgine tomorrow morning. And while I may not be climbing on any of it, I'll so be hoping I'll be walking on snow most of the day while on the tops.
There's a wee bit of snow forecast for today and tonight on the tops. Then cold and clear tomorrow.
So I'm off for a wander up the South Glen Shiel ridge from Sgurr na Sgine tomorrow morning. And while I may not be climbing on any of it, I'll so be hoping I'll be walking on snow most of the day while on the tops.
In reply to Glen: Starting to get excited...
In reply to Glen:
Snowforecast seems to indicate it getting wintery on Tuesday and then a sizeable dump of snow on Wed night through to Thurs morning.
This is consistent with the conditions shown on WXmaps which indicates north winds and conditions for precipitation falling as snow over all of Scotland from Tuesday and those conditions extending south as far as the Loire later in the week.
Snowforecast seems to indicate it getting wintery on Tuesday and then a sizeable dump of snow on Wed night through to Thurs morning.
This is consistent with the conditions shown on WXmaps which indicates north winds and conditions for precipitation falling as snow over all of Scotland from Tuesday and those conditions extending south as far as the Loire later in the week.
In reply to Glen: Ha, A couple of days of heavy snow and you'll get the usual suspects posting on here about routes being in 'perfect nick.'
In reply to Ian Black:
I'm sure it's possible that some of the rockier mixed routes might be in perfect nick, depending on what the conditions turn out like...
The important thing is that this is the beginning of the season!
I'm sure it's possible that some of the rockier mixed routes might be in perfect nick, depending on what the conditions turn out like...
The important thing is that this is the beginning of the season!
In reply to Only a hill: Exactly. I've started winter climbing at this time of year every year since I first started climbing.
In reply to Ian Black:
Would I do that? The temperature just dropped below freezing on top of Cairngorm. Conditions might be nearing perfect.
> (In reply to Glen) Ha, A couple of days of heavy snow and you'll get the usual suspects posting on here about routes being in 'perfect nick.'
Would I do that? The temperature just dropped below freezing on top of Cairngorm. Conditions might be nearing perfect.
In reply to Jim Fraser:
Excellent, is the Loire downfall going to be "in"?
> (In reply to Glen)
those conditions extending south as far as the Loire later in the week.Excellent, is the Loire downfall going to be "in"?
In reply to Bingers:
I hope not. Even the sauvignon blanc might be upset by it this early.
> (In reply to Jim Fraser)
> [...]
> those conditions extending south as far as the Loire later in the week.
>
> Excellent, is the Loire downfall going to be "in"?
> [...]
> those conditions extending south as far as the Loire later in the week.
>
> Excellent, is the Loire downfall going to be "in"?
I hope not. Even the sauvignon blanc might be upset by it this early.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Last winter after massive dumps in the Lakes some of the young team were posting about perfect conditions after three days heavy powder. I just think it gives the less experienced the wrong impression about conditions and is mis-leading. Chock gully was one of the routes that some thought was in nick, when it clearly wasn't. The last thing we want to hear about is fellow climbers getting avalanched for the sake of waiting a wee while to things consolodate. I've climbed mixed stuff in what some would say is 'dubious' nick, but high avalanche risk is another thing...
> (In reply to Ian Black)
> [...]
>
> Would I do that? The temperature just dropped below freezing on top of Cairngorm. Conditions might be nearing perfect.
> [...]
>
> Would I do that? The temperature just dropped below freezing on top of Cairngorm. Conditions might be nearing perfect.
Last winter after massive dumps in the Lakes some of the young team were posting about perfect conditions after three days heavy powder. I just think it gives the less experienced the wrong impression about conditions and is mis-leading. Chock gully was one of the routes that some thought was in nick, when it clearly wasn't. The last thing we want to hear about is fellow climbers getting avalanched for the sake of waiting a wee while to things consolodate. I've climbed mixed stuff in what some would say is 'dubious' nick, but high avalanche risk is another thing...
In reply to Ian Black:
Of course. The risk is quite small at present, so I think I can be forgiven.
> but high avalanche risk is another thing...
Of course. The risk is quite small at present, so I think I can be forgiven.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Forgiven Andy! We're all desperate to get out early season but...
> (In reply to Ian Black)
> [...]
>
>
> Of course. The risk is quite small at present, so I think I can be forgiven.
> [...]
>
>
> Of course. The risk is quite small at present, so I think I can be forgiven.
Forgiven Andy! We're all desperate to get out early season but...
In reply to Glen:
I for one will be up in Aviemore next weekend for the STS round at Glenmore so if things do look ok for a trip into the corries I would be more than keen as my usual partner cant make it (something about having to work or other such nonsense).
The cairngorm guidebook is out already...who needs xfactor on a saturday night.
I for one will be up in Aviemore next weekend for the STS round at Glenmore so if things do look ok for a trip into the corries I would be more than keen as my usual partner cant make it (something about having to work or other such nonsense).
The cairngorm guidebook is out already...who needs xfactor on a saturday night.
In reply to Ian Black:
Getting a snowed-up rock route in in October is great, it really lifts the soul. Cant understand why some people seem so negative about the prospect.
Getting a snowed-up rock route in in October is great, it really lifts the soul. Cant understand why some people seem so negative about the prospect.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Some of us are scared that their body won't cope after spending last winter in the warm and sun. i.e. Me!! lol
Seriously though - if the temp in Forfar today is anything to go by it must be bloody cold on the hills!
> (In reply to Ian Black)
>
> Getting a snowed-up rock route in in October is great, it really lifts the soul. Cant understand why some people seem so negative about the prospect.
>
> Getting a snowed-up rock route in in October is great, it really lifts the soul. Cant understand why some people seem so negative about the prospect.
Some of us are scared that their body won't cope after spending last winter in the warm and sun. i.e. Me!! lol
Seriously though - if the temp in Forfar today is anything to go by it must be bloody cold on the hills!
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
It also ensures that by the end of the season you are climbing at the speed of this guy !
vimeo.com/15466282
Aye
Dan
It also ensures that by the end of the season you are climbing at the speed of this guy !
vimeo.com/15466282
Aye
Dan
In reply to Jim Fraser:
Woke up this morning to a thin covering of snow on the Tops in Torridon. Winter is a coming!
Woke up this morning to a thin covering of snow on the Tops in Torridon. Winter is a coming!
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan:
That's what it's going to be like tomorrow! I'm working at 6 in the evening.
That's what it's going to be like tomorrow! I'm working at 6 in the evening.
In reply to Glen:
I have nearly 3 weeks of holiday to take before the ned of the year and have already begun to unpack the winter rack and sharpen the axes.
I have nearly 3 weeks of holiday to take before the ned of the year and have already begun to unpack the winter rack and sharpen the axes.
In reply to John Rushby:
This ned of the year thing, is this a previous winner? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=64064
A good dusting on the Ben and Mamores this morning.
> (In reply to Glen)
>
> I have nearly 3 weeks of holiday to take before the ned of the year
>
> I have nearly 3 weeks of holiday to take before the ned of the year
This ned of the year thing, is this a previous winner? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=64064
A good dusting on the Ben and Mamores this morning.
In reply to Jamie Hageman:
Hooray! I want to go and have a peek at Ledge Route on Thursday, reckon it might be in acceptably wintry conditions.
Hooray! I want to go and have a peek at Ledge Route on Thursday, reckon it might be in acceptably wintry conditions.
In reply to Only a hill: Well, probably not crampons conditions, but a bit slippery for boots... in fact nailed boots would probably be ideal for the ramp out of number 5 gully. Go for it!
In reply to Jamie Hageman:
Yup, I'm hoping to take the Tricouni-nailed boots out for their first spin to see what they can do. Hopefully the first of many outings in them over the winter!
Yup, I'm hoping to take the Tricouni-nailed boots out for their first spin to see what they can do. Hopefully the first of many outings in them over the winter!
In reply to John Rushby:
Well, do give me a shout if you fancy a trip, since Mr Greengrass tells me you only live about 2 miles from me.
> (In reply to Glen)
>
> I have nearly 3 weeks of holiday to take before the ned of the year and have already begun to unpack the winter rack and sharpen the axes.
>
>
>
> I have nearly 3 weeks of holiday to take before the ned of the year and have already begun to unpack the winter rack and sharpen the axes.
>
>
Well, do give me a shout if you fancy a trip, since Mr Greengrass tells me you only live about 2 miles from me.
In reply to Jim Fraser:
"Eight Bewick swans touched down in Britain late on Sunday night, marking the earliest arrival since 2003"
one minor detail... but I dont remember winter 2003/4 being particularly hard...
"Eight Bewick swans touched down in Britain late on Sunday night, marking the earliest arrival since 2003"
one minor detail... but I dont remember winter 2003/4 being particularly hard...
In reply to John Rushby:
".already begun to unpack the winter rack and sharpen the axes."
Dug mine out on Sunday and then remembered last night that the last year I done this they weren't used till mid February!
".already begun to unpack the winter rack and sharpen the axes."
Dug mine out on Sunday and then remembered last night that the last year I done this they weren't used till mid February!
Can anyone suggest some good ridges which will be fun and reasonably safe under potentially powder snow?
In reply to John Rushby:
What for? take your Petzl mallets instead.Aint noooo ice up here Mr!
> (In reply to Glen)
and sharpen the axes.>
>
>
What for? take your Petzl mallets instead.Aint noooo ice up here Mr!
In reply to Glen:
Will do. fingers crossed for lots of snow, and a freezer that will let me climb a couple of falls closer to home !!
Will do. fingers crossed for lots of snow, and a freezer that will let me climb a couple of falls closer to home !!
In reply to jonnie3430:
hehe so psyched jonnie, i'll try and be both fast and furious! emx
> (In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan)
>
> That's what it's going to be like tomorrow! I'm working at 6 in the evening.
>
> That's what it's going to be like tomorrow! I'm working at 6 in the evening.
hehe so psyched jonnie, i'll try and be both fast and furious! emx
In reply to Glen:
Had a quick run into the Corries at lunchtime.
Looking pretty wintry in there. I have put a couple of images up although I couldn't get any of the crags as it was a very thick clag and I could barely see a thing.
Have put a few words and images here http://mountain-plan.blogspot.com/
If it clears up later then I shall try and get a couple more of the Corries and crags !
Aye
Dan
Had a quick run into the Corries at lunchtime.
Looking pretty wintry in there. I have put a couple of images up although I couldn't get any of the crags as it was a very thick clag and I could barely see a thing.
Have put a few words and images here http://mountain-plan.blogspot.com/
If it clears up later then I shall try and get a couple more of the Corries and crags !
Aye
Dan
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan:
The sound you can hear is me hopping from foot to foot in excitment and sharpening my axes *
* This is a turn of phrase and I am not allowed sharpen axes by my care worker anyway.
The sound you can hear is me hopping from foot to foot in excitment and sharpening my axes *
* This is a turn of phrase and I am not allowed sharpen axes by my care worker anyway.
Just heard the Tomintoul road is only passable with care so sounds like there must be quite a bit of snow being dumped in the GORMS?
In reply to iggy:
Aye, the snow level is coming down:
http://www.webcam-ski.com/webcams/interfaces/the-lecht/interface.php?pk_int...
Aye, the snow level is coming down:
http://www.webcam-ski.com/webcams/interfaces/the-lecht/interface.php?pk_int...
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan:
Not surprised! It's even very cold for the time of year in Angus! If there's any pecipitation in the air it might even be snowing over the Angus Glens!
> (In reply to MelH)
>
> Seems to be the odd snow flurry at the door this evening !
>
>
> Seems to be the odd snow flurry at the door this evening !
>
Not surprised! It's even very cold for the time of year in Angus! If there's any pecipitation in the air it might even be snowing over the Angus Glens!
In reply to Glen: Sleet in Aberdeen the day.
In reply to Glen:
Back by popular demand!
White tops in Kintail, white in the Cairngorms, white in the Monadhliath. Driving snow and white road between Dalnaspidal and Dalwhinnie on the A9 this evening.
Back by popular demand!
White tops in Kintail, white in the Cairngorms, white in the Monadhliath. Driving snow and white road between Dalnaspidal and Dalwhinnie on the A9 this evening.
In reply to Jim Fraser:
Some white up in torridon too:
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/call-of-the-wild-torridon
Some white up in torridon too:
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/call-of-the-wild-torridon
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan:
Hope to do fingers on saturday, what do you reckon the snow will be like?
Many thanks Mal
> (In reply to Glen)
>
> Had a quick run into the Corries at lunchtime.
>
> Looking pretty wintry in there. I have put a couple of images up although I couldn't get any of the crags as it was a very thick clag and I could barely see a thing.
> Have put a few words and images here http://mountain-plan.blogspot.com/
>
> If it clears up later then I shall try and get a couple more of the Corries and crags !
>
> Aye
> Dan
>
> Had a quick run into the Corries at lunchtime.
>
> Looking pretty wintry in there. I have put a couple of images up although I couldn't get any of the crags as it was a very thick clag and I could barely see a thing.
> Have put a few words and images here http://mountain-plan.blogspot.com/
>
> If it clears up later then I shall try and get a couple more of the Corries and crags !
>
> Aye
> Dan
Hope to do fingers on saturday, what do you reckon the snow will be like?
Many thanks Mal
In reply to Sonya Mc:
mwaaaaa haaaaa haaaa
If Clova is in this weekend I'll eat something non vegetarian. ;p
> (In reply to MelH) Will Clova be in?
>
> <gets coat>
>
> <gets coat>
mwaaaaa haaaaa haaaa
If Clova is in this weekend I'll eat something non vegetarian. ;p
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan: The car windscreen was iced up this morning in Livingston - winter is here officially!
In reply to Glen:
Don't want tae piss on anyone's fire - but does no-one checked the weaher forecasts anymore? Temp rising on Friday as a front passes through. Nice we have snow but just a wee bit early for the real thing maybe...
Don't want tae piss on anyone's fire - but does no-one checked the weaher forecasts anymore? Temp rising on Friday as a front passes through. Nice we have snow but just a wee bit early for the real thing maybe...
In reply to george mc:
Yep, think friday will cancel weekend too, for even the most optimistic!
However, some honed friends of mine, will still be climbing in Aviemore this Saturday, just check the chins smile!
Stuart
Yep, think friday will cancel weekend too, for even the most optimistic!
However, some honed friends of mine, will still be climbing in Aviemore this Saturday, just check the chins smile!
Stuart
In reply to george mc: Another band of snow to come through on Sat/Sun though according to my source.
In reply to george mc: Though probs looking more like Sunday now and may be a bitty squally (sp?) Sat looks rather minging.
I'm ever hopeful/optimistic though.
I'm ever hopeful/optimistic though.
In reply to Sonya Mc:
Shame none of my partners are; convinced today was the day but no takers.. Grumph.
Shame none of my partners are; convinced today was the day but no takers.. Grumph.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: I have a day off Uni today too! But my car needed servicing and it's the only day I had free, otherwise I'd have come out
In reply to Sonya Mc:
It's been pretty mild here up until around Monday afternoon. The ground up high is very wet, saturated even. It'll take a while for any cold weather i.e. sub zero temperatures to have an affect. We've two days of cold weather up high (looks to be colder lower down) then a period of warmer air with the freezing level going above the summits on Friday (possible Saturday). So given the ground is still pretty wet and warm several days of colder weather will obly 'crisp' up the top. That warmer wetter weather will strip out anything that has started to form effectively setting the 'clock' back to zero.
It's all promising that the wetaher is turning colder but two days of cold wetaher with a wee bit of snow does not make for good climbing conditions IMHO. I'd be looking for a week of colder weather before pocking my nose into aything up the hill climbing wise.
Still each to their own. Personnaly I prefer my winters to be like winter rather than a colder version of what has passed as our summer here!
> (In reply to george mc) Another band of snow to come through on Sat/Sun though according to my source.
It's been pretty mild here up until around Monday afternoon. The ground up high is very wet, saturated even. It'll take a while for any cold weather i.e. sub zero temperatures to have an affect. We've two days of cold weather up high (looks to be colder lower down) then a period of warmer air with the freezing level going above the summits on Friday (possible Saturday). So given the ground is still pretty wet and warm several days of colder weather will obly 'crisp' up the top. That warmer wetter weather will strip out anything that has started to form effectively setting the 'clock' back to zero.
It's all promising that the wetaher is turning colder but two days of cold wetaher with a wee bit of snow does not make for good climbing conditions IMHO. I'd be looking for a week of colder weather before pocking my nose into aything up the hill climbing wise.
Still each to their own. Personnaly I prefer my winters to be like winter rather than a colder version of what has passed as our summer here!
In reply to george mc: Yeah, but *if* (and it's a big if yeah) it does snow again on Sat/Sun, then something like Pygmy will be okay. Nothing will be frozen but I'm more than happy scratching up snowed up rock. A wee bit of snow is still fun for me even if it's not great conditions.
In reply to Sonya Mc:
Personally I'd want to see a bit of rime on it too. I honestly thought that with the Northerly airstream that was a realistic possibility today; unfortunately none of my partners could be convinced.
It's not just all about Pygmy Ridge btw, in white but unfrozen conditions there's a wee clutch of turf-less routes that lend themselves. Just a shame they're all 'ard!
Personally I'd want to see a bit of rime on it too. I honestly thought that with the Northerly airstream that was a realistic possibility today; unfortunately none of my partners could be convinced.
It's not just all about Pygmy Ridge btw, in white but unfrozen conditions there's a wee clutch of turf-less routes that lend themselves. Just a shame they're all 'ard!
In reply to Sonya Mc:
There's actually a fair amount of snow up on the Angus Glens today -fantastic views. I did say yesterday that if there was any precipitation in the air it would be snowing up there and I was right. Still won't be in this weekend though. long way off Clova being in I reckon.
Mel
There's actually a fair amount of snow up on the Angus Glens today -fantastic views. I did say yesterday that if there was any precipitation in the air it would be snowing up there and I was right. Still won't be in this weekend though. long way off Clova being in I reckon.
Mel
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Oh I def want it rimed! But I think it could be on Sunday. It's back to Northerlies on Sunday, just depends how wet it gets on Sat I guess and just how much it snows on Sunday and whether it's too windy etc for my liking. All that lovely weather last winter made me soft about going out in strong wind :oD
Does some powder snow class as "white in appearance" though? Just when is it ethically acceptable to get the ironmongery out. Jigging up in poons with axes over some powder snow is surely just as damaging as dry tooling up it in summer? (without getting into a big argument please)
In reply to Milesy: if it looks like winter and feels like winter ...then it is winter.
but yes you are correct about the damage.
but yes you are correct about the damage.
In reply to Milesy:
It is far more damaging to climb something under a light coating of snow/hoar than it is to dry tool it.
> Does some powder snow class as "white in appearance" though? Just when is it ethically acceptable to get the ironmongery out. Jigging up in poons with axes over some powder snow is surely just as damaging as dry tooling up it in summer? (without getting into a big argument please)
It is far more damaging to climb something under a light coating of snow/hoar than it is to dry tool it.
In reply to Milesy: What mux says, if it looks and feels wintery, then it's good for me. And as long as turf isn't damaged in the process, then I don't care about a few scratches on rock, it's superficial (IMO)
In reply to Calum Nicoll:
I completely agree with you here.
I just dont understand the argument about damaging the rock when something is not in condition. (unless it needs a freeze to hold blocks together etc)
If it is covered in powder you don't scratch and tw@t your tools to get a placement, you have a look, give it a brush with your glove if need be, place your tool once and pull.
If it's well rimed and the cracks are choked with ice, its a battle to scratch and clean placements with your tools to get something your happy with. Thats where the scrathes coming from.
Same with your feet, if you see a dry ledge or nubin to stand on your not going to scratch and slip looking for something better.
The only reasons that the route has to be in winter nick is to provide the challange IMHO. You can't get the full tick if your tooling up dry rock - simples...
I completely agree with you here.
I just dont understand the argument about damaging the rock when something is not in condition. (unless it needs a freeze to hold blocks together etc)
If it is covered in powder you don't scratch and tw@t your tools to get a placement, you have a look, give it a brush with your glove if need be, place your tool once and pull.
If it's well rimed and the cracks are choked with ice, its a battle to scratch and clean placements with your tools to get something your happy with. Thats where the scrathes coming from.
Same with your feet, if you see a dry ledge or nubin to stand on your not going to scratch and slip looking for something better.
The only reasons that the route has to be in winter nick is to provide the challange IMHO. You can't get the full tick if your tooling up dry rock - simples...
In reply to Calum Nicoll:
True, but yet somehow you just dont see ques of people getting psyched for a dry-tooling ascent of Pygmy Ridge in July.
> It is far more damaging to climb something under a light coating of snow/hoar than it is to dry tool it.
True, but yet somehow you just dont see ques of people getting psyched for a dry-tooling ascent of Pygmy Ridge in July.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
I've been doing laps on it all season as training for this winter.
> (In reply to Calum Nicoll)
>
> [...]
>
> True, but yet somehow you just dont see ques of people getting psyched for a dry-tooling ascent of Pygmy Ridge in July.
>
> [...]
>
> True, but yet somehow you just dont see ques of people getting psyched for a dry-tooling ascent of Pygmy Ridge in July.
I've been doing laps on it all season as training for this winter.
In reply to george mc: I'll expect to see you there on Sunday then
In reply to george mc:
Don't know what Pygmy Ridge was like, but just back from Savage Slit. In fine nick, all white, quite verglassed, turf frozen (but only on the top pitch cos there isn't any on the chimney). Its getting harder though, as the ledges abd cracks are getting worn by tools and crampons.
Don't know what Pygmy Ridge was like, but just back from Savage Slit. In fine nick, all white, quite verglassed, turf frozen (but only on the top pitch cos there isn't any on the chimney). Its getting harder though, as the ledges abd cracks are getting worn by tools and crampons.
In reply to Glen: It seems weird that people are talking about frost and snow while down here in the SW we're still in t-shirts and flip flops!
We have started wearing long trousers on occasion though
Cx
We have started wearing long trousers on occasion though
Cx
In reply to Clears: It's ok, just seen a couple walking down Fort William high st in shorts and flip flops. It was 5 degrees and almost sleeting
In reply to Jamie Hageman:
They were on holiday. You have to wear shorts on holiday; it's the law.
You realise we could have had some product today?
They were on holiday. You have to wear shorts on holiday; it's the law.
You realise we could have had some product today?
In reply to george mc:
That was white all over, even inside the chimney. Not deep but rime that needed chipping off. A couple of lads from the Lodge did it behind us.
That was white all over, even inside the chimney. Not deep but rime that needed chipping off. A couple of lads from the Lodge did it behind us.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: No, they were definitely locals. Jamie, I had to deliver paintings to Oban today. Yes, we could've got a route or two in. I was thinking about that most of the day!
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: you have text!
In reply to Andy Nisbet: So you got in early enough to be first on route :oD
In reply to Sonya Mc:
I wonder what time he finished the route at as well?
Aladdin's and Fluted Buttress today: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=15461539&l=14d7b43395&id=8208...
Mess of Pottage today: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=15461535&l=5d56823148&id=8208...
I wonder what time he finished the route at as well?
Aladdin's and Fluted Buttress today: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=15461539&l=14d7b43395&id=8208...
Mess of Pottage today: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=15461535&l=5d56823148&id=8208...
In reply to jonnie3430:
Impressive!
My brother and I decided to go and have a look at Ledge Route on the Ben today. We got as far as the top of the forest track before running away: it was very mild (probably about 10 C) and had been pissing it down for half an hour. The clag was well down. Possibly would have been worthwhile continuing, but my suspicion was that the snow was being washed away.
I'm now back in Glencoe and all the visible snow on the surrounding mountains has been stripped.
Impressive!
My brother and I decided to go and have a look at Ledge Route on the Ben today. We got as far as the top of the forest track before running away: it was very mild (probably about 10 C) and had been pissing it down for half an hour. The clag was well down. Possibly would have been worthwhile continuing, but my suspicion was that the snow was being washed away.
I'm now back in Glencoe and all the visible snow on the surrounding mountains has been stripped.
In reply to Sonya Mc:
Helen left Aberdeen at 5am. She's been training with Simon Richardson so that probably counts as late. Lucky she did though.
Helen left Aberdeen at 5am. She's been training with Simon Richardson so that probably counts as late. Lucky she did though.
In reply to jonnie3430:
She finished about 14.00. You shouldn't have said he because Helen led the crux and the finish on to the plateau.
She finished about 14.00. You shouldn't have said he because Helen led the crux and the finish on to the plateau.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
My apologies to Helen! We didn't see another climber all day and would have missed you at the car park as we had already left.
My apologies to Helen! We didn't see another climber all day and would have missed you at the car park as we had already left.
In reply to jonnie3430: first skiing of the season too!
http://www.winterhighland.info/publicreports/index.php?21,2010-10-20
http://www.winterhighland.info/publicreports/index.php?21,2010-10-20
In reply to The Gibbon:
The turfs mostly gone just leaving rubble... See http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_txpqww5wwWc/TL2VpeCWbeI/AAAAAAAAAXA/JoVJVzUuoNk/s...
The turfs mostly gone just leaving rubble... See http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_txpqww5wwWc/TL2VpeCWbeI/AAAAAAAAAXA/JoVJVzUuoNk/s...
In reply to Glen:
In the turf tantrum sweepstake, I picked today, so would be grateful if someone would oblige:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=425467&v=1#x6028880
(Sorry I put the wrong link in my last post so have deleted and am now posting correct link- doh!)
In the turf tantrum sweepstake, I picked today, so would be grateful if someone would oblige:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=425467&v=1#x6028880
(Sorry I put the wrong link in my last post so have deleted and am now posting correct link- doh!)
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Were you the first 'leashless' ascent this season or is that still up for grabs?!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stuart
Were you the first 'leashless' ascent this season or is that still up for grabs?!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stuart
In reply to Stuart the postie:
Typical first climb of the year syndrome. Spent 3 hours looking for all the pieces of equipment, and found all except the springy things. Didn't dare without them. Hard luck though; Helen was leashless, though springy (maybe women who lead technical 6 usually are).
Typical first climb of the year syndrome. Spent 3 hours looking for all the pieces of equipment, and found all except the springy things. Didn't dare without them. Hard luck though; Helen was leashless, though springy (maybe women who lead technical 6 usually are).
In reply to Andy Nisbet: Oooooh, wonder if I get my springy things on my axes that I'll lead tech 5 this year then. I've still only got one handle screwed onto my axe, never did get round to putting on the other one last year! I did sharpen my crampons yesterday however. I think you're going to have to show me an easy/quick/proper way of crampon sharpening cos it took me an hour to get them semi sharp/sharper than they were!
In reply to Glen: Did savage slit today...possibly fourth ascent of the year! I thought we were getting an early route in but apparently not!
Was in really good nick as we were there quite early but by the time we left the temperature had risen and the crag was beggining to strip...doubt it will be white by tommorrow.
Was in really good nick as we were there quite early but by the time we left the temperature had risen and the crag was beggining to strip...doubt it will be white by tommorrow.
In reply to Sonya Mc:
Not trying to be funny about the crampon sharpenning but I told Fi all about putting pressure on the cutting stroke "blaaaa blaaa...." which she promptly ignored and filed them as if she was doing her nails! The results I have to admit were better and far sharper than me using my bastard file (technical term) So along with climbing through cornices woman are far better...!
Duck.......
Not trying to be funny about the crampon sharpenning but I told Fi all about putting pressure on the cutting stroke "blaaaa blaaa...." which she promptly ignored and filed them as if she was doing her nails! The results I have to admit were better and far sharper than me using my bastard file (technical term) So along with climbing through cornices woman are far better...!
Duck.......
In reply to Sonya Mc:
That UKC article is better than I know. I've never sharpened picks or crampons. Only because with various axes and picks, I just let them get very blunt and choose a suidtable pair for a route, then eventually buy new picks.
That UKC article is better than I know. I've never sharpened picks or crampons. Only because with various axes and picks, I just let them get very blunt and choose a suidtable pair for a route, then eventually buy new picks.
In reply to Ron Walker: Well, I do admit to filing them back and forth like you're not meant to and like you would file nails, lol! I think it only took ages because I've never really filed my crampons before and they're around 5yrs old now so they were damn blunt. Plus I used them in the Alps this year and them bunged them away wet so they were pretty rusty. I've never bothered sharpening them before, but after skittering about on a technical slab last year, and also doing a few icy pitches, I realised that sharp was better!
In reply to Andy Nisbet: Just checked up. Yeah I knew it was going to be wintry come Sunday no matter what the nay sayers said. But looks like it might be too wintry, snowy and windy. Feck, feckity feck feck! A miracle may happen and the wind may ease, humph!
Looks like next week looks rubbishy too, back to westerlies and S.W's again. I've got that blasted half marathon next weekend so hopefully I won't miss anything. Very jealous of Helen and you getttin out!
Looks like next week looks rubbishy too, back to westerlies and S.W's again. I've got that blasted half marathon next weekend so hopefully I won't miss anything. Very jealous of Helen and you getttin out!
In reply to Sonya Mc:
Yes, the weather might just change - it's pretty unsettled at present. I'm out tomorrow morning (before it snows) so I'll be keeping an eye on conditions.
Yes, the weather might just change - it's pretty unsettled at present. I'm out tomorrow morning (before it snows) so I'll be keeping an eye on conditions.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
I was 'posting on this forum as the average UKC user!' tongue in cheek!
I'm still climbing these 80's and 90's routes, in the style they were put up, ie Piranhas, leashes, Edilrid helmet. Haven't worn plastics for a couple of seasons though.
Even Stewart Anderson, is a leashless convert, 'couldn't have climbed Vertigeous Gully, with them!' He did wear plastics though.
Stuart
I was 'posting on this forum as the average UKC user!' tongue in cheek!
I'm still climbing these 80's and 90's routes, in the style they were put up, ie Piranhas, leashes, Edilrid helmet. Haven't worn plastics for a couple of seasons though.
Even Stewart Anderson, is a leashless convert, 'couldn't have climbed Vertigeous Gully, with them!' He did wear plastics though.
Stuart
In reply to Stuart the postie:
whats wrong with plastic boots ?
and leashes ?
ok, have a "new" helmet but nothing wrong with a bit of "retro"
whats wrong with plastic boots ?
and leashes ?
ok, have a "new" helmet but nothing wrong with a bit of "retro"
In reply to Pids:
Nothing. I do think that some/many climbers, think modern, technical gear, is a substitute for experience.
If the weather is more encouraging, are you driving north on Sunday?
Stuart
Nothing. I do think that some/many climbers, think modern, technical gear, is a substitute for experience.
If the weather is more encouraging, are you driving north on Sunday?
Stuart
In reply to Stuart the postie:
Munro bashing this Sunday, will def catch up this season though, more time available
Munro bashing this Sunday, will def catch up this season though, more time available
In reply to Glen:
Looking fairly snowy at the lecht this morning:
http://www.webcam-ski.com/webcams/interfaces/the-lecht/interface.php?pk_int...
Looking fairly snowy at the lecht this morning:
http://www.webcam-ski.com/webcams/interfaces/the-lecht/interface.php?pk_int...
In reply to Stuart the postie:
My reply may have seemed serious (it wasn't) but I knew yours wasn't.
My reply may have seemed serious (it wasn't) but I knew yours wasn't.
In reply to Glen:
It's hard to tell from the picture but that was slush. I was in Sneachda this morning hoping to get a climb before the air turned warm (midday they said) but it turned warm about 6am. So I'm posting here instead.
It's hard to tell from the picture but that was slush. I was in Sneachda this morning hoping to get a climb before the air turned warm (midday they said) but it turned warm about 6am. So I'm posting here instead.
In reply to Andy Nisbet: What do you reckon my chances are of getting something climbed tomorrow Andy? Was hoping to go high in the Cairngorms. The Ben has been stripped again - only 6/7 degrees here at the mo and raining, but must be an inversion as no new snow up high.
In reply to Jamie Hageman:
Hard to say. It was 2 degrees in Aviemore and 2 degrees in the corrie. Plus 1 on top of Cairn Gorm. It doesn't seem much colder now, so I'm thinking that anything steep in Sneachda will be stripped (it basically was anyway). Lochan looked like there was still some rime in the recessed area above Savage Slit, but not a lot. But the temperature is dropping. So you'll need to be optimistic and assume it's going to be below freezing tomorrow. I think the turf on the top half of Lochan will still be frozen so the easier routes will be just OK. So conclusion, not great but OK if you're keen. If it snows again, then much better of course.
Hard to say. It was 2 degrees in Aviemore and 2 degrees in the corrie. Plus 1 on top of Cairn Gorm. It doesn't seem much colder now, so I'm thinking that anything steep in Sneachda will be stripped (it basically was anyway). Lochan looked like there was still some rime in the recessed area above Savage Slit, but not a lot. But the temperature is dropping. So you'll need to be optimistic and assume it's going to be below freezing tomorrow. I think the turf on the top half of Lochan will still be frozen so the easier routes will be just OK. So conclusion, not great but OK if you're keen. If it snows again, then much better of course.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Sounds like with the thaw and a refreeze we might get some good verglass up high!!!
Ron
Sounds like with the thaw and a refreeze we might get some good verglass up high!!!
Ron
In reply to Ron Walker:
Forgot to say that there was a big drift of snow in Invernookie which will def. still be there tomorrow. There was a lot of verglas today high up but I don't think it will have survived. I see that it is forecast cold tomorrow with snow showers so Coire an Lochain might be reasonable (at best). But don't expect Savage Slit to be like it was midweek.
Forgot to say that there was a big drift of snow in Invernookie which will def. still be there tomorrow. There was a lot of verglas today high up but I don't think it will have survived. I see that it is forecast cold tomorrow with snow showers so Coire an Lochain might be reasonable (at best). But don't expect Savage Slit to be like it was midweek.
In reply to Glen: do you think theres any chance of the mixed routes being in on monday? only have the day of but would be keen to get up if theres a chance
cheers, liam
cheers, liam
In reply to rovers123:
Yes for rocky mixed in Norries. Don't expect truf to be great except just below the plateau.
Yes for rocky mixed in Norries. Don't expect truf to be great except just below the plateau.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Turf was shockingly poor today but less steep rocky ground is holding wind-blown snow well; very little riming though. Cracks were choked and winter ambience non-debatable on the right routes today.
Turf was shockingly poor today but less steep rocky ground is holding wind-blown snow well; very little riming though. Cracks were choked and winter ambience non-debatable on the right routes today.
In reply to Glen: Looks like conditions could return again over the weekend, snow and another cold snap forecast.....
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