/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Ines Papert and Ian Parnell - Scottish Winter
In this excellent short film by Hans Hornberger we see Ian Parnell, accompanied by visiting top climbers Ines Papert, Mathieu Audibert and Audrey Gariepy, winter climbing in Scotland.
Their visit, which occurred last winter, saw the team racking up a considerable ticklist, which included Ines Papert climbing two grade VIII,8 routes.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3130
Nice photography. Great climbing. Someone please shoot the voiceover guy.
"Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears!"
Adventures in Scottish Winter.
The lecture will feature footage from the Scottish Wings film from Hans Hornberger along with photos and stories from Ian about his Scottish Winter adventures!
I'm totally in love with that Green coat. (and a little bit with everything else in that film)
Audrey Gariepy & Mathieu Audibert
Fall Out Corner VI,7 in the Cairngorms
Smiths Gully VI,5 on Creag Meagaidh
Central Buttress VII,7 in Glen Coe
Central Buttress VI,7 on Beinn Eighe
Poachers Fall V,5 on Liathach
Minus Three Gully VI,6 on Ben Nevis
Was it Minus 1 gully VI,6 or Minus 3 IV,5?
Excellent. Oddly, I've just read Audrey Gariepy's account of this in "Gripped" magazine.
It was fantastic to see someone like Papert (whose track-record had been in a very different style of climbing) coming to Scotland and loving the medium and respecting the ethic. I hope she'll be back and would expect some more head-turning performances when she does.
I'm not sure if it is that different. People seem to think that all European mixed climbing is bolted but it doesn't seem to be, and even routes that do have bolts on them often involve long sections of high standard ice climbing with screws for pro. Papert repeated Flying Circus which is multi pitch mixed with I believe mainly pitons and screws in daggers for gear.
BTW - Doesn't Stirling Bridge look icy in the video?! I might have even got up with that lovely looking ice to swing at in the corner! :-)
Worth having a read of this:
"I really like trad climbing, ever since my last trip to the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada, but I had never done hard winter trad routes. After my trip to Scotland I'm certain that that is the future. No bolts! It seems to me to be great training for bigger routes and unsurprisingly Scottish climbers are very successful on hard technical climbing in the Himalayas"
I'm sure I'm not the only Scottish enthusiast who feels very proud of what we have reading that sort of comment!
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