UKC

Want to pick the UKC massive's brains about the odds of Zelda being dry on Sunday. Looks like we get a big dump of rain in the middle of tonight/early tomorrow morning and then scattered showers through tomorrow day. Should clear up tomorrow night and be fine on Sunday though. So if that is the case do you think Zelda will dry out for Sunday afternoon?

Cheers!

In reply to Bobling:

Yes. The bay gets plenty of sun. The North Wall dries quickly too.

In reply to Bobling:

It will dry very quickly - within an hour or two - after rain. A brilliant route and not to be underestimated.

In reply to GrahamD:

Care top expand on this?

In reply to Bobling:

Don't worry - it isn't serious. There is good pro on all of the tricky bits, and the holds are all there when you find them!

Greta next to it is much less protected, in places.

In reply to Bobling:

As above. Its a very good big feeling route. Safe but feels 'out there' in places. What I meant was that it needs to be approached with respect you would give a mountain route - not that it was a sandbag !

In reply to Bobling: I did it a couple of weeks ago when things were still damp. The start was intimidatingly damp, but the holds are positive enough to get past, after that it was as dry as a bone.

In reply to Chris Sansum:

but not much. It may not be badly protected but I wouldn't describe it as well protected either! I did it on a dank, cold day in December that maybe didn't help but I also felt it was a relatively serious route. Pics and video:
http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2008/01/wintours-leap-photos.html

In reply to Bobling:

Arghhhh! Too much beta : ) Thanks folks, am looking forward to it.

In reply to TobyA:

Have you considered renaming that video 'faffing around and not doing' the crux of Zelda, Toby?! Like your ponytail, though.

jcm

In reply to TobyA:

I'd describe the second pitch as a virtual sports route. I assumed all those concreted pegs have always been there but perhaps they're a recent addition?

In reply to TobyA:

The first pitch has a nut or cam protectable crack followed by a peg for the tricky move leftwards (or nut above the crack). Nice to have gear here as it is a bit polished.

The bit after the traverse is a little run out, but it is very easy slab climbing. Probably protectable if you particularly want to by using some of the thin trees to the right, but not necessary as it is easy. Then there are some crack placements and a tree followed by an easy scramble leftwards to the belay. So all in all very well protected, and not serious.

In reply to Toreador:

Three pegs in 18m? All 30+years old.

In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

But much of that 18m is a lot easier, it was only the start where the pegs felt necessary. Is it only 3? My memory says more, but you're rather more likely to know than I am! My notes, made at the time, say "I did pitch 2, which felt like a sports route - what's the difference between a line of bolts, and a line of cemented in pegs?"

I assumed that they're solid, being cemented in. If they're not then they should either be replaced or removed!

In reply to Toreador: I lead the first pitch and remember the ramp up to the belay (after you come out of the starting corner) felt a little bold. I don't remember what gear there is on the second pitch and Mike had led it before so was very relaxed doing it.

In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

From memory, the pegs on p2 look a lot newer than 30 yrs old. Although you're more likely to know than me for sure!

In reply to Chris Sansum: The history of this route is worth a page in the Historical alone (but such indulgences are now discouraged). A few points may be of interest. The remaining peg on pitch 1 is believed to be the FA original. When I sent my draft 1977 script to John Grieve in 1976, he remarked that on a recent visit he had been 'surprised to see his partner's home made peg still in situ' (but this could have applied to a lower peg in the left wall, long dispensed with). I am almost but not 100% certain that it was not removed and replaced in the short interval between then and my cementing round it a couple of years later. I did the route several times thenabouts, including my first solo of it in 1978. This peg was implied to be an aid peg in the 1965 GMC guide and has often been used as such (I witnessed an occasion only six weeks ago!).

The first peg on pitch 2 (protecting the nose move) also definitely predates 1975 and may be quite a bit older. I placed the sentry box peg in 78 (having recommended its use in the 77 guide) along with the pegs now at the belay. The early descriptions of this climb appear to advocate a poorer finish further left avoiding the sentry box. The intermediate peg appeared in the early to mid 80s. I did not cement it, or mention it in the 87 guide, as I regarded it as something of an interloper and assumed that I or someone would remove it. However, it was well in and has become accepted as a fixture. The moves between it and the sentry box are not hard, but some people are still shaking from the exposed step out and welcome the assurance it gives.

So this one might be 30- years but all others are 30+. To qestion whether they are sound is like asking how long is a piece of string. The crux is, are they likely to do the job they need to? Probably but not definitely – i.e., they may well hold a small fall or provide secrity to grab in an emergency; they are certinly not to be equated with 12mm SS bolts. However, there are no alternative natural gear placements and it is unlikely that replacement pegs as good (or anywhere near) would be possible. The whole topic of peg degradation and replacement was given a good UKC airing recently, more specifically in relation to Avon.

For all this, the route remains one of the best, probably the best, of its grade in the Wye Valley.