/ NEWS: Leo Houlding Frees The Prophet - El Capitan
"He started well, moving in his smooth, measured style... he chalked a couple of times and went to meet his fate..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58588
nice work.... the springer has sprung!
And well done Jason as well - lets not forget the man on the other end of the rope.
Oh and if you want a desktop of the crack pitch - https://www.posingproductions.com/wallpaper.php
I guess I'll just have to watch it on my laptop.
Won't be the same.
That crack looks brilliant but desperate.
Congrats guys, this is great news. I remember reading stories of Leo & Jason trying this line about the time I started climbing. To try this ground up, climbing into the unknown on a wall like El Cap was pretty ballsy. And the time & effort to free the line shows just how hard and scary the climbing must have been. Looking forward to seeing the vids.
I remember listening to Leo at a lecture a long time ago and he said that after his first trip to Yosemite he promised himself that he would go back ever year without fail. Looks like it's paid off!
Congratulations Leo, am psyched for you!
Excellent pictures here:
It sounds like it was a bit of an epic. More footage for Kendal?
The word 'lieback' really grates on me.
I'm a big Leo fan....
Proper cool and exciting dude!
Any chance of getting it screened on BBC Scotland?? ;-)
all I can say is well done Leo and Jason.
the world has gone mad truely ;)
Great News. The stories of the early attempts on this were really inspiring. Really glad to see it done at last
Truly inspiring. Both Leo and Jason. As for El Cap and the line up A1 Beauty. It is quite simply, art! Amazing.
Bigger cojones than the proverbial brahma bull!
Can't wait to see the film.
Check out an interview with Leo this afternoon on BBC Radio Derby:
I was jesting today that he was being a trifle optimistic if he thought he could land on that 'mat' if he fell off.
Another Leo interview: http://audioboo.fm/boos/209222-leo-houlding-topping-out-on-the-prophet-buxton-opera-house-31-oct-201...
550m, 1800 ft
Make that E9! Saw Leo last night at Ratho and the footage of the A1 Beauty Pitch was proper edge of the seat stuff....
Can somebody put this in context for those of us who don't spend their lives following the latest developments?
How many all free routes are there on El cap? How hard are they? How many are old aid routes?How many are all "fresh" routes? How many people have put up free routes on El Cap?
Is Royal Robbins still the king of the valley?
At your service; See this interview I did with Leo, at the base is a list of free routes on El Cap
No Royal Robbins has retired.
To save you clicking on the link.
El Cap Free Big Walls (and nearly free)
2010 could be a big year for El Cap free routes, as well as Leo's line The Prophet, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have put much work in on a line on El Capitan's southeast face, a 900-meter route (linking up sections of the Dawn Wall and Mescalito) that is likely the hardest big wall free climb in the world, mind-bogglingly stacked with numerous 5.14 pitches - think 8b and 8c, and E10 if you need a translation, but lots of it - these aren't no single pitch headpoints partner! We'll see what happens and keep you posted at UKClimbing.com.
Below is a timeline of El Cap Free (and nearly free) Big Walls.
Free Blast - 5.11b (The Free Blast goes only to Mammoth Terraces, about 1/3 of the way up El Cap) FFA - Jim Bridwell, John Long, Kevin Worrall, Mike Graham, John Bachar, and Ron Kauk
West Face - 5.11b FFA - Ray Jardine, Bill Price.
Salathe' Wall - 5.13b FFA - Todd Skinner, Paul Piana. (12 ascents)
Excalibur - 5.13a, A4 (75% free) FA - Steve Schneider, Bill Price, Jeff Schoen.
The Nose - 5.13c/5.14b FFA - Lynn Hill. (4 ascents)
El Nino - 5.13c A0 FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber. (7 ascents)
Salathe' Wall / Freerider - 5.12d FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber. (Over 30 ascents)
Golden Gate (Salathe' Wall / Heart Route) - 5.13b FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber.(13 ascents)
Lurking Fear - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden.
The Shaft (Muir/Shaft/Shield combination) - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Nick Sagar.
El Corazon (Free Blast(Salathe') / Flight of the Albatross / Son of Heart / Heart Route combination) - 5.13b FFA - Alex Huber.
West Buttress - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden Caldwell.
New Jersey Turnpike - 5.13? A0? 80% free FA - Leo Houlding, Ivo Ninov, Tim and Tom Morrow.
Zodiac - 5.13d FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber. one repeat
Dihedral Wall - 5.14a FFA - Tommy Caldwell.
Lost in Translation - 5.12b/c (10p: 2 5.12) FA - Nicolas Favresse, Ivo Ninov.
preMuir (Muir/Shaft/Turning Point/Shield) - 5.13d FFA - Rob Miller, Justen Sjong
Magic Mushroom - 5.13d/5.14a FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong.
The Secret Passage - 5.13c R FA/FFA - Nicolas Favresse, SeŠn Villanueva.
Why two grades for The Nose. Does it depend on how chubby your fingers are?
Are there two alternative pitches at the crux? I seem to remember one being the 'Changing Corners Pitch'?
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