UKC

Fantasia - Red Wall, Gogarth

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 robw007 02 Nov 2010
Watched a lad do this a few years back - looks amazing.

Have done Red Wall and Wendigo - so aware of seriousness of the place.

Heard that crucial peg on top wall has gone and now very serious - is this the case or can you get other gear in?
 Bulls Crack 02 Nov 2010
In reply to robw007:

I'm afraid my only experience of it was my mate pulling off half of the initial overhang and it whistling down past the back of my neck....we escaped up Red Wall and ran away!
 Misha 03 Nov 2010
In reply to robw007:
Did this a few week ago. Pretty conventional compared to Red Wall and Wendigo, apart from the sandy cave that you move across, which is a bit worrying and just plain weird, but fortunately not too hard. After that cave it's all pretty solid and conventional climbing, though take care on the vertical Swiss cheese finish as some bits can snap off, as my mate found out seconding (he managed to hold onto the snapped hold and it's now been very tastefully mounted on a tile by one of the girls in the club, we just haven't quite found a use for it!) The only peg I recall is a decent metal wedge at the far side of the cave. The guide book mentions a peg higher up but I don't remember seeing even so much as a stub. The gear is all fairly solid and conventional though, just a bit run out at one stage (nice technical moves and not steep on that section). The climbing is pretty sustained 5b and 5c from the moment you leave the cave almost all the way to the top, with some decent rests but no ledges, so a lot harder than Wendigo and Red Wall. E3 5c is fair due to the sustained nature and the run out bit. Enjoy!
OP robw007 03 Nov 2010
In reply to Misha:

Nice one - thanks for the info.

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