UKC

NEWS: The Roost - Two New E7's by Matt Troilett

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 10 Nov 2010
Mat Troilett on his desperate Fascination Street E7 6c at the Roost, Hebden Bridge, 4 kbA group of Lancastrians made a foray into deepest darkest West Yorkshire this summer and discovered gritstone gold on a hillside above the Halifax Road between Todmorden and Hebden Bridge.

Seven high quality new routes were climbed including two new E7's by Matt Troilett.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58793

 gingerwolf 10 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Ace, good effort!
What about a route in the wide crack?! surely that would be easier than E4?!
 Adam Lincoln 10 Nov 2010
In reply to TomBond:
> (In reply to UKC News) Ace, good effort!
> What about a route in the wide crack?! surely that would be easier than E4?!

The reason nothing goes up that bit is that it has some suspicious loose rock at the top.

 gingerwolf 10 Nov 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln: ahhh, fair enough! missed that! thanks
 mattrm 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

It's really nice to see people putting up hard new trad routes when they find some random quarry, rather than stuffing it full of sports routes. More of this sort of thing please.

Great effort lads, well done!
Chris Ellyatt 11 Nov 2010
In reply to mattrm:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> It's really nice to see people putting up hard new trad routes when they find some random quarry, rather than stuffing it full of sports routes.

Aye, second that!

Chris

 Justin T 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Looks like a frikkin awesome little venue!
 Paul Crusher R 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Giggidy giggidy
 Dave Foster 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Makes Heptonstall look slabby!
 Nez 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Good effort lads, looks good. Not to sure about the bolts though!!
 peewee2008 11 Nov 2010
In reply to Paul R: Gooooooo
 grubes 11 Nov 2010
In reply to Nez:
Nice ascents and work. I will not comments on the bolts on yorkshire grit (I understand they are there on for access etc). I am know where near good enough to climb here so I wont be clipping them any time soon.

I am a little disappointed grades in yorkshire are being called soft (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=176358), I geuss they were graded by people from the other side of the hill though.
 Paul Crusher R 11 Nov 2010
In reply to grubes: "I geuss they were graded by people from the other side of the hill though." oooo low blow. Jealousy gets you nowhere.
 Bulls Crack 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Well done - I went up there and had a look a couple of years ago - it was in very bad nick and sopping but it looks great in the photo - must have been a good dry spell? Wondered if there'd be access problems with the farm on top.
 erinbastian 11 Nov 2010
In reply to grubes: Well, I don't think ALL grades in Yorkshire are soft! I just took it as being if we managed to onsight and flash 2 E5s and 3 E6s, which were partially wet in just a few hours, then there was a possibility they might be soft??

Then again, me and Pete could be just going well at the moment.

Ilkley though - ooh, some tough ones there!

Roost is total quality though. Really interesting climbing and a great hard venue. Good job by those who renovated it all.
 erinbastian 11 Nov 2010
In reply to erinbastian: Crap, that wasn't supposed to be Erin Bastion - it's Tom Randall.

Sorry Erin!! See you soon hopefully.
 grubes 11 Nov 2010
In reply to TomPR:
guess am just used to places like pule hill and shooters nab where you climb a VD to warm up and realise its actually a HS. Its a strange feeling being half way up a HVD realising you area bout to do a committing 5b move
Sandbagging crags in west yorkshire gotta love it.

Also I think most people have had an almscliff spanking.
 Robin Warden 11 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
this looks like a great new place, with inspirational lines, although i feel that a big part of trad climbing is hanging on to place the gear, regardles of the grade? I know its the first ascent and all that, and its overhanging and no, I am not up for leading at that grade, my top grade is about E4/5, and i have established new routes, but never preplaced gear?
great effort all round.
 Micky J 12 Nov 2010
In reply to Nez: What exactly is it that you are not to sure about ?
 Mick Ward 12 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

What a brilliant looking crag! You always had the feeling that there might be a little gem lurking somewhere among the trees. Never imagined anything like this though. Top effort by Mick Johnston and his mates for rediscovering it and developing it.

Mick
 richardh 12 Nov 2010
In reply to death drop:

I presume he's not too sure about bolt belays on grit.

Have you guys had a revisit to Baildon Box Quarry? the reservations about homeowners' gardens and belays threw a spanner in the works there I think a few years ago.
 Robin Warden 13 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Could anyone please tell me why in the photo, gear has been pre placed in all routes, and why no gear was placed on lead of the E7?, this action must reduce the grade some what?
 Micky J 13 Nov 2010
In reply to landskip: The gear is not preplaced just quickdraws on pegs from an earlier attempt . Still VERY much E7 i would think !
 PontiusPirate 13 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Amazingly, I've walked within spitting distance of this place a couple of times (actually looking for a quarry which I thought was lurking on that hillside - looks like my hunch was right after all!) but never saw it!

Doh!

<guide writer/photographer hat on>
I did wonder if and when it was going to get publicised properly given the photos that turned up on the YMC grit guide flickr group a couple of months back! If you haven't done so already, can you guys tag the photos with the route names as appropriate - Ta!
<guide writer/photographer hat off>

PP.
 Micky J 13 Nov 2010
In reply to PontiusPirate: Not the only one a local and well known climber has passed right by on his mountain bike on many occasions and not noticed it !!

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...