/ PRODUCT NEWS: Sterling Sharma Signature Velocity Rope Review
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=3198
Maybe check the product info on the grigri....
1. Field of application
Belay device for 10 to 11 mm (9.7 mm is acceptable) CE (EN 892)
and/or UIAA certified dynamic single ropes (core + sheath).
The GRIGRI is designed for indoor wall climbing or for rock climbing
on well-protected routes where anchors meet the EN/UIAA standard
(25 kN). It can be used to belay and lower a leader or a second.
It should not be used for mountaineering or adventure climbing.
All new ropes are slick with a grigri and my 9.7mm rope after breaking it in now works perfectly with a grigri.
BTW, do you reckon 9.7 is thick enough to not be terrifying when top roping above a big drop? I remember doing that for the first time on my Revelation (9.1mm) and being absolutely terrified it looked so thin! I have a Beal Joker now (great rope) but always use my old 10.5 Beal for top roping and working routes due to cowardice on skinny ropes as much as anything! :)
I guess it's a case of just getting used to it. I had a brand new Beal booster 9.7mm and used it mostly at the wall. First few times we had to use a friction krab when lowering off with the grigri due to the slickness but as the rope wore in, it began to work fine. I suppose the solution is now in hand with the new grigri which I believe is designed for slightly thinner ropes.
I guess its a mental thing with the thinness of ropes, my biggest worry is not the rope or belay device.. it's the ability of the belayer!!!
Toby it's all a bit arbitrary since the diameters are often not comparable between manufacturers. IIRC there is a very detailed standard which specifies how the rope is tensioned prior to measuring etc etc but singularly fails to address the force appiled to the measuring calipers. So, if I wanted my new rope to measure 8.9mm I just squeeze as hard as :@&*.
Is the grigri safer on a 10mm measured by just kissing the sides of the rope or on a 9.6 that had the bejeesus squeezed out of it in the measuring (that you or I would probably measure at 10.2)? The more I look into rope stats, the more farcical it all becomes.
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