UKC

A group of North Wales activists are collaborating on the production of an independent new guidebook to the Ormes Limestone area in North Wales. This publication is dedicated to supporting the North Wales Bolt Fund which has played a crucial role in the vast amount of re-equipping work undertaken to-date. There has been a need for a new guide since Rockfax’s 1997 North Wales Limestone became out of print.

The book will be in the shops in March 2011 in time for the spring season. It will provide up-to-date route information with colour topos and a range of top quality action photos. There will also be an historical section, a graded list, access and conservation information, plus unique contributions from climbers past and present who have helped to define and develop the climbing in this area. Two sample pages which give a feel for how the finished work will look are available to download
here: http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/Testament%20sample%20page.pd...
and here: http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/Diamond%20sample%20pages.pdf

The guidebook team is made up of experienced and active local climbers, who between them have an extensive pool of knowledge of all the crags in the guidebook area throughout the grade range. The team consists of Pete Harrison, Andy Boorman and Jon Ratcliffe with contributions from a host of other keen locals including Lee Roberts, Chris Doyle, Pete Robins and Simon Panton.

“We’re really excited about the new book, and it has been great to see all the locals coming forward to support the project. The financial boost to the bolt fund is going to be very welcome and, really, it was the obvious thing to do. Even if you only climb on the Ormes occasionally, please buy a copy as it will help us to keep the bolts and belays in good condition.”

Enthused Pete Harrison.

It is important to note that this guidebook is being researched and written by a group of volunteers who are passionate about climbing in the area – none of the volunteers will be drawing a wage or making any profit from the proceeds of the book sales; all proceeds from the sale of the guide will go to the North Wales Bolt Fund. These contributions will go directly towards the cost of continuing the equipping work of installing marine-grade bolts in place of old expansion bolts which are slowly rotting away in the aggressive salt-water environment.

Last year Lower Pen Trwyn received an extensive re-equipping with resin bolts supplied by the bolt fund, and access to major cliffs such as The Diamond would not be possible without the efforts of the NWBF. Access to Upper Pen Trwyn would also be under serious threat were it not for the work of a small team of volunteers who have been checking and replacing lower-off anchors on over 150 routes including trad, sport and mixed. This work is essential to aid the BMC efforts to maintain access to routes above the Marine Drive.

(NB. If you wish to make a donation to the NWBF there is a click-able donate link on the front page of the North Wales Limestone wiki: http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com )

In reply to petejh:
We also need action photos from the NW Limestone area. If anyone would like to send them to me at petellanrhos at gmail dot com they'd be much appreciated and there may be a free copy of the book in it for you.

In reply to petejh:


Cheers for all the hard work over the years, folks, and please keep it up.

Come on folks, these places don't bolt themselves! Get your wallets out!

Great Work Guys!

In reply to petejh:

Looks great + it's great that you're supporting the bolt fund

One observation however...no route lengths on the above sample pages.

Good luck with it all (just hope it doesn't slow down the publication of the eagerly awaited slate guide!!!)

In reply to Sl@te Head:
Cheers Ian, the book's coming along nicely despite Winter conspiring to keep me away from working on it.
The route lengths, yeah I'd considered it and I don't think recording the route lengths of most of the routes on the Ormes actually adds or takes anything away to the experience. There's so many routes in the 12 - 20m range and it's obvious from the ground how long the routes are. The only ones I was going to mention were the long routes where a double lower-off or abseil may be required for e.g. Wall of Evening Light, The Shining, etc. I'd be interested to hear what people think though and can include them if need be.

In reply to petejh: i dont think its a big deal (given the nature of the routes) but i still quite like to see route lengths: quite good if comparing routes of similar style / grade i.e. its something else to differentiate things though fairly arbitrary in many instances i realise.

i cant wait to see (buy) the finished article!

In reply to petejh:

The routes maybe mostly 12 - 20m but I think not including the lengths would be a backward step. I can think of any logical reason for not including them.

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

A backwards step? Most routes in the 97 Rockfax don't have route lengths.

In reply to doylo:

... and that was almost 14 years ago.As I said - a backward step.


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on our definition of a 'step'. I think route lengths are only necessary for the longer routes.

I don't think Jacks putting route lengths in either

In reply to doylo:

Absolutely, its your guide - go with what you think is right. Sure it will be a cracker either way.

Chris

In reply to doylo:

For regular Orme climbers not including route lengths may make sense though visiting climbers would probably appreciate this info as we all do when visiting e.g overseas crags. The sample page above of the little Orme makes little sense unless you've climbed there as far as guessing the lengths of routes.

Not sure if you guys remember the double fatality on the Orme in the late eighties (Robert Pink was one of them). Route length info could save lives and in my opinion should be included.

Many guides also include the number of bolts on a route also very useful info and again in my opinion worth including.

In reply to Sl@te Head: now that (number of bolts) can be very useful indeed but again may be of limited value here as you can see most of the bolts; possible exceptions are Mayfair Wall, The Diamond and maybe others i havent climbed on eg Castell y Gwynt.

In reply to ksjs:
If you can see the bolts it's still of value to give a count on blank walls, areas with packed in routes etc...helps a lot with route identification.

In reply to John Henry Bull:

No so bothered about number of bolts but I do like route length stated in teh guides

In reply to petejh:

When is this out?!?! I'm psyched.

In reply to JimmyKay:

It says March in the original posting,


Chris

In reply to JimmyKay: The playing field has changed slightly since this premier post and the news report on V12 were originally posted - basically the situation back then was there were two publishers both producing guides to the NW Limestone area, this brought with it a pressure to be first to the shelves; this has now changed as Rockfax have decided not to continue with their project. We are now aiming to release the guide by the summer.