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Waterproof jacket advice

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 Richard Baynes 23 Nov 2010
I might have to invest in a new one this winter as I've been getting a bit damp. I'm fed up of leaky zips. So: Reasonably light, waterproof zips, and as cheap as possible, because I'm poor: any recommendations on garment and/or source? Not set on goretex but needs breathability.
 Stuzz 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Richard Baynes:

Not exactly cheap but i've been using to patagonia stretch element and its brilliant. Tough, light, well featured and seems more breathable than proshell. I'm sure you'll be able to fide one cheap if you shop around.

Although the most important thing is to make sure anything you get fits you. maybe tour the shops trying things on then go look whatever you find up on the net to find the best deal?
Irishonthewirral 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Richard Baynes: go paramo
 John Newbiggin 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Irishonthewirral:

Like mentioned earlier, go for fit.

eVent breathes more, but needs washing more often, and is essentially the same material as goretex.

Depending on fit and budget, there aren't huge difference between the major brands in terms of quality. Most are using Gore-tex pro-shell or eVent.


Paramo is a tricky one in that it's more of a soft-shell, so breathability is better. All depends on your use. My only gripe with soft-shells is they aren't usually a fully weatherproof barrier between you and the elements. So if for some reason you're stuck and don't keep moving, they could be seen as a liability in a way....

But, it's all dependent on fit and function. Many people I know are happy with a good Paramo/Buffalo/VR top and keep a lightweight pac-lite shell in the sack just in case.

The layers you wear will also affect the fit + feel of the jacket too so keep that in mind, most good shops like Cotswold etc will be more than happy for you to try load on with layering systems too.
 pat m 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Richard Baynes: Buy second hand ?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=430266&v=1#x6091438



Sorry shameless bump!
In reply to John Newbiggin: Needs to be fully weatherproof, for hanging about on belays etc. Is that what soft-shell means? I see the term all the time and have no idea what it means, because it's one of those phrases that everyone kinda assumes means something...
I'm well up on my layering, have a preferred way of doing things etc, I just need advice on a fully weatherproof jacket whose zips don't leak at a decent price... anyone quote any rough prioces, or sources?
 owen1988 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Richard Baynes:

google andy kirkpatrick psychovertical softshell and read the info on his site about softshells, it will explain what you want to know in better detail than I can.

To quickly answer your question, softshells are not waterproof. Some have a 'water resistant finish' or will be showerproof, but not fully waterproof as you require.
 John Newbiggin 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Richard Baynes:

Most jackets won't have waterproof zips despite what they may claim. (Infact some brands now stash a leaflet inside the pockets on sale to point this out...) For a top end hard-shell you're looking between £200 - £400 in some cases.

I have a ME Tupilak II, very nice slim fit, but again it comes down to you. All have their perks/cons.

The main 2 brit brands to look into would be Mountain Equipment and Rab, but if you're investing the money just look around and try whst you can from the likes of Marmot, Arc'Teryx, Haglofs, Norrona, Patagonia, Eider, Millet, Berghaus, North Face and so on
 mrchewy 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Richard Baynes: How about a Rab Demand, the OMM Cypher or the new Berghaus Asgaard smocks? All waterproof, all light and no zip to worry about... the Rab can be got for not much more than £100.
In reply to mrchewy: Smocks - not good for a sweaty man like me. Any other recommendations? Basically I should do lots of researchon the net and go to shops, but I'm hoping someone will come up with a killer suggestion.Lazy git, I know, but shopping is a tool of Satan.

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