UKC

Anyone mountaineered in Tajikistan?

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 beckycoles 23 Nov 2010
Thinking of doing some mountaineering in Tajikistan.

Anyone been?

Any tips?

Any suggestions of areas to head to for bagging first ascents?

Cheers for any info
ice.solo 23 Nov 2010
In reply to beckycoles:

several trips there. lots of possibilities.

infrastructure-wise tajikistan ranks just short of the moon, tho its improving. permits for gorno-badakhstan (GB) are now usually available with the visa so you can enter from kyrgyzstan, saving a fair amount of hassle coming thru dushanbe (flights to khorog can be delayed by weeks, and its a long drive otherwise, plus dushanbe is a pain in the ass to fly too, tho transits thru istanbul are becoming better).

beyond the military highway the pamir has been scantily penetrated. anything too near china is restricted. the pamir alay can be accessed from an alternative route to kyrgyzstan, but is in a state of obscure restriction.

first ascents are very possible, particularly in the alay. deeper into the pamir opens up more possibility but is really hard to access. the porter system as it exists in nepal/pakistan doesnt so much here, making getting gear into bc harder as you need to track it all down yourself (no eager crowds waiting).
a good idea would be to base a few ascents out of a central bc.
most of the main pamir is very dry with high snow lines and little vegetation. most water is variable over the day.

tips; total self sufficiency and no strict time-line. tajikistan is a hard place but awesome.
there are operators in the country (as in climbing, not just as in blackwater).
security is ok nowdays.

i will pm you some more details.
KunLunExpress 23 Nov 2010
In reply to beckycoles:

Sounds really cool. What style are you planning to do? and how large is your team?
OP beckycoles 25 Nov 2010
In reply to KunLunExpress:

Just doing loads of research at the mo.

Looks like a lot has been done in the Soviet era, not so many Brits have been out there so it's hard to find out what is unclimbed.

Probably a team of 4 of us and I aim to set up a base camp from where we can pick off a few peaks.
 Tim Sparrow 25 Nov 2010
In reply to beckycoles: Alpine Club trip there in 2006, to Shakdara range in south west (Peak Karl Marx). Look up AC website, 2007 journal, its all available on line now. The official trip report may also be there too.
Death Star Constructor 26 Nov 2010
I went there a couple of years ago. ice.sole (above) said a lot that is needed to know. Not sure I can add anything useful at this stage.

You guys need to find out what kind of mountains you are after and then people might be able to help in more detail. I have pics of most of the mountain area from Khorog, along the Pamir "highway" and to the border with Kyrgystan. But the more challenging peaks are elsewhere.

I wouldn't count on too many F/A though. The Russians have been almost everywhere.
arctic_hobo 26 Nov 2010
In reply to beckycoles: Everything is possible with a bribe
ice.solo 26 Nov 2010
In reply to arctic_hobo:
> (In reply to beckycoles) Everything is possible with a bribe

ah ha, the first and last rule of central asian climbing.

arctic_hobo 26 Nov 2010
In reply to beckycoles: oh aye, and that everyone and her dog packs an AK, and letting them off is usually* a joke or a hello/goodbye/salute/boredom

*sometimes the fact that the roads are twisty is reassuring when running away
arctic_hobo 26 Nov 2010
In reply to ice.solo:
> ah ha, the first and last rule of central asian climbing.

I suppose it's "nothing is possible without at least some bribe" but saw some blinged up yanks there with a bloody entourage of bribed officials, farmers, god knows what. They'd ditched guides cos they cost more. Fair play if you've got the money. I didn't

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