UKC

Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran have been out making good use of the early season cold snap. The team made a first ascent in the ever popular Coire an t'Sneachda in the Cairngorms early in the month.

Omerta is a three pitch VIII,9...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=59077

In reply to UKC News: Mr. Moran doesn't seem to be slowing down much in his old age does he ?

In reply to UKC News:

Good effort. The new route looks good. Is the secret now considered VIII 9 or is that an error?

In reply to Franco Cookson: Cracking start to the seseaon already. Congrats to Pate and Martin.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

General consensus for The Secret is VIII,9 now.

In reply to UKC News: Oi Macpherson! Whilst you are out an about enjoying yourself who is looking after Harry? You have responsibilities young man.

I shall see you next week and have words with you. Oh and by the way, well done!

In reply to UKC News:

These routes look magnificent. Can someone answer a pig-ignorant question; are they also done in summer?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: The Secret, no it's a winter only line. The other one not sure, but don't think so.

In reply to Tom Knowles:

Blimey, how many repeats has it had now?

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Neither are existing summer routes though imagine Omerta might get some attention with rockshoes at some point. Top pitch of the secret prob be nice enough in summer but the first pitch would be pretty horrid + it's a long long walk up there past the attractions of carn dearg etc... in summer. That said the arete to the left of the secret would make a short but spectacular (and bold) summer line...

In reply to UKC News: So is omerta VIII, 9 with a rest point or did they lower down and climb that pitch cleanly?

In reply to Mither Tap:

The Secret has had 5 known ascents:

1. Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth and Viv Scott.
2. Ian Parnell, Mark Garthwaite and Guy Robertson.
3. Tony Stone and Blair Fyffe.
4. Ueli Steck and Aljaz Anderle.
5. Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran.

In reply to ring ouzel: Mr Ouzel, Harry was at home chewing my bloody hill socks and everything else he could get ahold off! Pop in and get the crack when your passing.

Pete

In reply to petemacpherson:
Pete, I was taking some photos from across the way on no3 buttress. I can send them over if you like?
Tom

In reply to Calum Nicoll: I took a rest one move from easy ground. This was due to fighting for gear all the way up the route with virually no spots to shake out. I felt it was pointless to abseil down the route and reclimb it as it wouldn't be onsight and i was tired! The Secret in contrast was easier to protect with 2 resting ledges so not nearly as tiring.

In reply to TomHodgkin: Hi Tom, That would be great Thankyou.That was one cold cold belay! Made my chesty cold even worse!!

In reply to petemacpherson:

Sounds hard. The report is a little misleading in that respect.

Is the route pretty cruxy? Curious cos you say it's serious, but gave it VIII,9, which I thought meant either great gear or a very short hard section.



Wicked pictures, I especially like the one of the 1st pitch of the secret.


Cheers
Calum

In reply to vscott:

Thanks. I'm a bit surprised; they look such brilliant pieces of rock, but I suppose as you point out there isn't a shortage of brilliant pieces of rock just around there.

jcm

In reply to Calum Nicoll:Midleading in what way?

Omerta was hard from the first to the last move with virtually no let up or good rest. If the thin cracks were cleared of ice/dirt then it would be easier to protect so repeats might find it easier(or if you are strong enough to hang about to clear them it would be less serious). When Martin Seconded the pitch he said most of my gear wasnt great, this included a pecker about 4 feet below me on the final moves which i thought was good but turned out to be crap. Grading these routes is not easy. I base it on how it made me feel at the time comparede to other routes. Northern corrie routes in my experience are nearly always tough at the grade so i chose to follow suit.

In reply to Calum Nicoll: There are some more pictures here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/abacusmountaineering/5202269209/in/set-7215762...

Mike

In reply to Franco Cookson:

General consensus for The Secret is VIII,9 now.

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In reply to Tom Knowles:

Think it depends whether the crux pitch gets climbed right from the bottom of the crack as in the first ascent which would be IX,9, or via the stepping in a bit higher up which is a bit easier VIII,9.

In reply to UKC News:

Martin impresses me more and more as he gets older. Fantastic. And Pete of course, but I don't know him at all.

In reply to jon:

How old is Mr Moran? He does seem to be climbing harder now than ever; the partnership with a younger powerhouse must be working well for him.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Not for me to say how old he is. However his motivation and determination is totally mental! He aint planning slowing down either!

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

I don't know Jamie. I'd hazard a really vague guess at somewhere late fifties. Martin, if I'm totally wrong I apologize!

In reply to petemacpherson:

Well the title suggests that the grade of the route is VIII,9, and does not mention this is using rest.



Interesting idea, I've always graded routes on how I found them, not how they'd be if they were clean.

In reply to Calum Nicoll:

Strange, I thought they made the rest point abundantly clear. Otherwise how do you know about it?

In reply to UKC News:

Two words: Nails. Awesome.

In reply to Calum Nicoll: VIII,9 with a rest quite simple. Graded on how i found it whch is how routes are supposed to be graded. I did not offer a grade for cleaned cracks i only said it would be easier so dont bother trying to be a smart arse with me.

You say you've always graded routes how you found them. Is this repeats of routes or your own routes? I'd be interested in your experiences or lack of??

Have a free tip from me, go climbing, the experience will do you good.

In reply to petemacpherson:

Excellent advice.

In reply to petemacpherson:

Which winter aid routes would you recommend?


Calum x

In reply to Calum Nicoll: I still wonder who you think you are impressing Calum? If you are really 19 and not some elaborate troll, you have a long time ahead of you with people in climbing thinking - "oh, I remember him from UKC. He was a bit of a prat."

In reply to TobyA: Hi Toby,

Calum has been in my shop asking both about pegs and jackets he's a clown and a clueless one at that.Calum, if you were pleasant towards me i would have been happy to take the time to explain how the grading system works which you also dont know about and offer you any info you required about winter climbing as you are alocal Inverness lad. However you have been short sighted and a bit of a child so i'm not going to waste my time with you.

When you grow up you'll learn that knowing and getting along with fellow winter climbers is benificial.

In reply to petemacpherson:

Your shop is ace. Are you the young or old macpherson?



How ironic.


Cheers
Calum

In reply to UKC News: Awesome photos, looks fun!

Calum, I was 19 once. I made mistakes (poor gear placements, bad rope management, awful technique) and people helped me rectify those mistakes. Find people who will help you.